1982 Norway Train, Ferry, Bus, Funicular (7/14/1982)

Wednesday, July 14, 1982

Went down to the 5th floor for breakfast at 6:45; a buffet breakfast with slices of bread, cheese and cold cuts, various fish, boiled eggs, butter and jam, etc. You could also have cornflakes, rolls, Swedish meatballs, something thick and smooth like a jellied pudding (rice pudding?), pickles, prunes, and there was an orange drink, milk tea, and coffee to drink. Paid the balance on our bill and left at 7:00 to catch the 7:30 train toward Bergen. A loudspeaker announcement in Norwegian, English, and German let us know the entire train was reserved, but we found a couple of open window seats.

Train supplement receipt

We had to pay a 7 NOK/$1.10 supplement, then settled back for a lovely ride through the Norwegian countryside; rolling hills with forests and farmland.

Norwegian countryside

Norwegian countryside

The farm buildings were usually simple frame houses painted red with white trim.

Farm

The sky was blue, the land was green, and the lakes were a deep, deep, blue. Lots of evergreens and birch trees. We must have been climbing, because the trees became stubbier until they disappeared altogether from the rocky ground. We had glimpses of snow-covered mountains as we passed through tunnels and under snow shelters (wooden structures built over the tracks, some very, very old and some new).

Railroad snow shelter

The higher we went, the greener and more tumbling the streams, and more often the views were obliterated by huge snow fences. We began to see patches of snow and the lakes still had ice in them.

View from train

It was all white scenery when we reached the highest station of the route at 1222 m/4009’ at Finse. The track itself reaches 1300 m/4265’.

More snow

At 12:15 in Myrdal, half the passengers got off and waited for the 12:45 train to Flåm.

Above Myrdal

Norges Statsbaner NSB/Norwegian State Railway

As this train climbed higher in the mountains, we jumped up for the sporadic views on either side between tunnels and snow shelters. Although brief, the views were fantastic, looking straight down into deep gorges and we saw lots of waterfalls. Then we descended to the level of a rushing stream in the valley.

Valley

Rows of haystacks

There was a middle-aged plump lady who exclaimed to Sue over the view, then started asking questions like when did the ferry leave and how long it took, etc. Because Sue didn’t know the answers, she went to bother a father-son duo. She couldn't guess that they were Australian, and she didn’t know what a fjord was.

We arrived in Flåm at 14:00 and went to the information booth for information (!). Bought 21 NOK/$3.35 tickets for the 14:30 ferry to Gudvangen.

Ferry ticket

We climbed to the top deck, but it was full. There were many empty seats inside the boat, but people wanted the views from outside, and it was hot inside. There was a line for the door to go forward on the nose of the ferry, but it was locked. The boat traveled along the Flåm branch of the Sogne Fjord, the largest fjord in Norway.

Flåm Fjord

A map pointed out farms and goat barns high on the cliffs. The ferry stopped at Aurland to pick up cars and people, and after departing, the nose of the boat closed, and they unlocked the door to let people go out. Sue and I perched on a railing and Sue noted that unlike other days, today we were just sitting and watching the scenery go by! Heard a goat bleat and saw more farms perched up on the cliffs. Saw a couple herds of goats down by the water’s edge.

Herd of goats

Viewed numerous waterfalls, each more spectacular than the last, sometimes coming from unbelievable heights. We didn’t see any seals, but there were plenty of seagulls who would swoop and grab bread from people’s hands.

Gull

Gulls

We passed the gulls’ spring nesting site and you could see a few nests.

More waterfalls as we passed into the narrow Gudvangen Fjord. Some farmers down by the shore were cutting long grasses and hanging them on wire fences to dry. At the convergence of the two fjords was the small town of Underdal with a little white church seating 40 persons, the smallest church in Norway.

Underdal church

Fjord

Waterfalls

Fjord

We saw a helicopter carrying what looked like a toolshed up the valley.

Helicopter delivery

Gudvangen Fjord

Flåm to Gudvangen ferry

We arrived in Gudvangen about 17:00 and tried to board the bus to Voss, but it was full. Waited for the next one, where we paid the 28 NOK/$4.45 fare to the driver.

Gudvangen to Voss bus ticket

Gudvangen to Voss bus

The middle of the back window in the bus was an optic section the size of a TV screen, and so we had a double view of the Swiss-like scenery behind us. The bus avoided a tunnel under a pair of waterfalls and climbed a zig-zag road between them. They then stopped for a 10-minute break and we had great views in two directions into the deep valley. The bus ride continued as the valley became more shallow, and I dozed off. Sue woke me to see a bridal veil of falls. We arrived in Voss at 18:30.

While waiting for the 19:10 train to Bergen, we walked to a nearby park with a memorial to Knute Rockne (legendary Notre Dame football coach) who was born here.

The train followed the Sør Fjord, passing through tunnels, while the sun was still high in the sky. We seemed to be with the same group of people all the way from Oslo! Arrived in Bergen at 21:00, too late to make train reservations for the next day. We had to walk into town to tourist information, and kept thinking we had gone too far, yet when we asked directions we had farther to go. At last we were able to book accommodations, a double room for 200 NOK/$32 (190 NOK plus a 10 NOK fee). We tried to follow the map to the hotel, but couldn’t find the street, so returned to information for better directions. Arrived at the Mari Kroa Hotell, which claimed to be the “cheapest” in town. Climbed one story to the bare basics reception room that had a television airing a program in English. This time only one of us had to fill out an information sheet, and we were given the key to room #409, two stories up. The room was just big enough for two beds, a wardrobe and two chairs. Sue went exploring to find a messy kitchen, a ladies toilet with no toilet paper, a room with showers, sinks, washer and dryer, and an empty storeroom. She took a roll of toilet paper from the men’s toilet that I put in the ladies toilet when it was my turn.

Even though it was 22:00, we decided to go out for the evening. We walked past the wharf to the funicular station and took the 22:30 car up Mt Fløyen. I asked the conductor for a return ticket and he looked at me funny. Together Sue and I said, “Up and down,” and the conductor replied, “That’s a return ticket.” My “accented” English must really be bad!

Funicular ticket

It took 10 minutes to ride up, partway in a tunnel, making a couple bouncy stops. At the top we had a cloudy panorama of Bergen below us with only a couple lights turned on.

Bergen at 11:00 pm 

We checked out the bases of the telescopes for the sights to see. As usual, a couple oil tanks are pointed out, as well as lakes, mountains, bridges, and landmark buildings. We took the 23:00 funicular back down with the same conductor who seemed to adjust his mirror in order to see us better.

We stopped at a camper grill to get hot dogs (in regular buns) and a chocolate bar. As we returned to the hotel, a truck driver asked us something, but of course, we couldn’t help. We saw a couple guys in swimming trunks re-arranging their backpacks.

Back at the hotel, I tried to take a shower in one stall, but the water sprayed out at belly button level. The next stall sprayed water in all directions, but at least from above you. When brushing my teeth, I turned the blue handle on the left for cold water and got hot water. So I turned the red handle for cold water.