1982 Odense, Denmark (7/22/1982)

Thursday, July 22, 1982

I was freezing cold from a draft that abated if I closed the compartment door tightly. I must have closed the door ten times that night! I wasn’t able to get comfortable in my single seat; so much for being able to sleep sitting up! Sue had 1-1/2 seats and was able to curl up horizontally. I think I cried myself to sleep a couple times. When I decided to stay awake to watch for our station stop, then I started nodding off!

Arrived in Helsingborg at 6:15. Checked the train schedule and there are no trains to Denmark. However, the ferry was right next door and they left every 15 minutes. Put our bags in a locker and looked for a bench to sleep, but they were occupied with drunks and bums. Went out into the cool morning to look at a town map. We thought Helsingborg was surrounded by nine castles, but only one was in sight. Climbed up to the Helsingborg Slott/Castle ruins for a nice view of the town and harbor, and found a bench. While Sue slept, I caught up in the journal. Then Sue went off for a while and came back to announce a sunny place to eat breakfast. Behind the Kärnan/castle keep (14C) was a park with a playground. Little sparrows came within inches of our feet, so I tossed a few melon seeds which they ate. But when I dumped the bag where I had the melon innards full of seeds, they wouldn’t eat those.

We walked to tourist info which wasn’t open yet, so continued to Rådhuset/City Hall (1897, designed by architect Alfred Hellerström). The traffic light intersections here (like many places in Scandinavia and even London) used audible clicks or electronic beeps to let you know the light was green. Saw a bicycle built for two pulling a little trailer. At 9:00 we went to tourist information to learn that yes, there are many castles, but none you can get to by train, and some you can reach by bus. We decided not to bother, and retrieved our bags to catch the 9:20 ferry across the Øresund strait to Elsinore, Denmark. Our ferry was one of 5-6 run by the railroads, and was one of at least three different companies.

Helsingborg

Helsingør/Elsinore Kronborg/Hamlet's Castle

A pleasant journey and soon we could see Kronborg Slot/Castle (1574-1585, rebuilt in 1639 in Renaissance style), better known as Elsinore or Hamlet’s Castle, in Helsingør. William Shakespeare’s “The Tragedy of Hamlet, Prince of Denmark” was written in 1599-1602.

In Helsingør we boarded the local 10:00 train to København/Copenhagen, traveling past Danish homes with profuse flower gardens and small train stations with large bicycle parking lots, arriving at 10:50. We went to book 2 beds at the youth hostel for 60 DEK/$7 each.

Youth Hostel receipt

We hiked over to the other side of the train station to the American Express office where Sue cashed a traveler’s cheque, and asked if she had gotten any mail. She did, from her parents! Sue paid me back for the Finnish and Swedish currencies she borrowed, and I changed all my Swedish money to Danish. Went to the Rådhus/City Hall to see a statue of Hans Christian Andersen (1965 by Henry Luckow-Nielsen). After a lunch at Burger King, we caught the 13:00 train to Odense. The train boarded a ferry at Korsør and we went up on deck to get drinks, a squash soft drink. It had sediment, so I shook it, and when I opened the bottle, it fizzed and spouted a bit. Whoops! Sat in an air-conditioned lounge with a lot of boy scouts.

Arrived in Odense about 15:45 where the train station was undergoing remodeling. We started walking, going through a park, and down to a main street. A block over, we saw the new brick Rådhus/City Hall (1955) with an older front section (1881-83 in an Italian-Gothic style). There we found a tourist booth to get a map and directions to Hans Christian Andersen’s Birthplace. It was only a few blocks away on Hans Jensens Stræde/Street, a cobblestoned lane of small wooden houses with multiple small panes in the windows.

Hans Jensens Stræde/Street

We entered a side building to the museum which takes you through the rooms of the house where Hans Christian Andersen was born.

Hans Christian Andersen Museum ticket

Hans Christian Andersen Birthplace

The photo/memorabilia exhibit was well-displayed, but maybe a bit too detailed. For instance, HAC’s father was put in an asylum and they had the floor plan of the asylum. Anyone who ever encountered HAC was remembered by a photo of themselves, their house, or a gift (such as a poem or scissor-cutout). HAC worked hard for fame and did receive it during his lifetime. He was unhappy in love, but had famous friends such as Jenny Lind and Charles Dickens. There were portraits and a domed room with primitive paintings around it depicting his life. Also a library and a room full of first editions with the walls covered with illustrations from his fairy tales.

Street in the neighborhood

We went out to view the other houses in the area, then stopped in the souvenir shop. Sue bought a really nice 3-dimensional cut-out Christmas tree. We walked to the Odense Domkirke/Cathedral or St Knuds Kirke/St Canute’s Church (1300-1499). Behind it was a beautiful arboreal garden surrounded by a narrow canal.

Hans Christian Andersen's garden behind the cathedral

Next we went to see Hans Christian Andersen's Barndomshjem/Childhood Home, before we returned to the train station.

Caught the 18:16 train to Copenhagen, and at 18:45 we were in Nyborg for the train to board the ferry. We stayed in the train compartment during this crossing. It seems like the whole railroad system is transporting scouts today!

Arrived in Copenhagen at 21:15 and walked to the youth hostel. We were going to take turns showering, but Sue came back to tell me there were no lights in the showers, and I’d better shower while there was still some daylight! When we checked in, we were given cardboard disks with our bed number on them; no keys here. We were in a 14-bed room.