Saturday, June 30, 1979

Diano Marina (6/25-30/1979)

Monday, June 25, 1979
In the evening, Arturo and I were driven to Diano Marina by Angelo who pointed out beautiful sights along the Autostrada. 

Tuesday, June 26, 1979
Spent mornings on the beach and afternoons treating Elena. There were only the B kids and their cousin Maria Teresa. 

Saturday, June 30, 1979
We were all taken home again in the afternoon.

In the evening I ate dinner with the Ps, another Piemontese special called bagna cauda – a sort of hot dip made with butter, olive oil, anchovies, and garlic in which you dip vegetables; delicious.  Then the usual four plus Carlo and Gianni’s friend, Franco, went to the fair near Cirie. Later Gianni and I visited with Franco, a great guy.

Sunday, June 24, 1979

Italian Alps (6/24/1979)

Saturday, June 23, 1979
Spent the morning with the family of Debora at their mountain apartment in Voragno, past Ceres.  A tiny town with a nice view of the valley.

In the afternoon Gianni and I went to Lanzo for ice cream and we saw his friend Franco with his motorcycle. Gianni and I took a short ride with the motorcycle. In the evening, the usual four went to a tiny fair in Bosconero where we found some of Gianni’s friends and went out for drinks.

Sunday, June 24, 1979
Left at 8:30 with Gianni, Aldo, and Carlo to drive to Pian della Mussa. From there we climbed the mountain. We really climbed and left Carlo behind who had a sore leg and a stomachache. I had to make a stop and sit down once when I felt faint. But it passed and we continued ever upward. There was a section of snow to cross, where my foot decided to slip. Aldo’s reaction was to grab for me and the two of us slid a bit in the snow. I managed to stop myself first, but Aldo kept going farther. Soon continued on our way and we lost Gianni who marched ahead. Finally after several hours we made it to Rifugio Gastaldi, a kind of mini-hotel.
Rifugio Gastaldi with Aldo, Carlo, Gianni
Aldo, Gianni, Carlo
There we ate our lunch and Aldo sadly recalled memories of the war (WWII). Put flowers at a memorial of his close friend, a partisan, who was killed there. Carlo also made it to the refuge, and after coffee we started down, avoiding the former snow route! It started raining really hard until we reached the car. Stopped at a bar for drinks before driving home. There was an endless line of cars going down to Torino. Inched our way down, but made it home in time for dinner. It was foggy all day in the mountains.

Friday, June 22, 1979

Jungfraujoch, Switzerland (6/20-22/1979)

Wednesday, June 20, 1979
Left Diano Marina at 00:30 with Dino to arrive home at 2:30. After three days at the Riviera, Signora B and I changed places again.

That evening I finally left at 20:00 to go to Switzerland. Took the scenic route even if it was getting dark, heading towards Ivrea then Santhia. Then up to Borgomanero and finally to Domodossola where I was stopped for a routine check by the police. Headed towards the Swiss border and pulled off to the side of the nearly deserted road to sleep. It turned out I was around the curve from the border station!

Thursday, June 21, 1979
Woke up at 6:00 and after marking my routes on the maps, I went back to Domodossola to wait for a gas station to open. After filling up, I drove to the border, where I had some trouble because I could not prove I had consent to drive the car. Finally they decided to let me through. The Swiss border police made me take out an insurance policy because I had no proof of having insurance, which cost 1,500 lire ($1.88). Drove through the Simplon Pass and saw that Switzerland is a very mountainous country with large beautiful valleys.
Simplon Valley
Simplon Pass
Stopped in Brig to exchange money and fortunately decided to change 50,000 lire instead of 20,000. Drove through the Grimsel Pass through a rugged valley with two dams. There was still ice in the lakes, and the snow at the sides of the road was higher than the buses that passed that way. It also seemed Switzerland was very green, even the streams had a greenish tinge! There were little villages with the picturesque churches. And the Swiss chocolate colored cows! Finally arrived in Interlaken about 12:30 Italian time, but 11:30 Swiss time! This city was a picturesque tourist trap even with casinos! Went first to the west, then the east railroad station where I took a train to Lauterbrunnen. This train used a small section of racking. Changed at Lauterbrunnen to another train that totally used racking to really climb the mountain to Kleine Scheidegg – a town with a hotel, restaurant, souvenir shop, and railroad station, and that’s about all! No cars here!
Lauterbrunnen in the valley with waterfall
Lauterbrunnen and Swiss "hills"
Rack railroad at Kleine Scheidegg
Saw and heard an Alpine horn player. Tourists (mostly Japanese!) were putting coins in the end of the horn (at least 10 feet from the mouth end!).
Alpine horn
From Kleine Scheidegg, took another rack railroad train to Jungfraujoch, the “top of Europe.” This train climbed up inside the Eiger mountain. It made two stops for picture-taking. The first stop had a clouded view of the valley. The second had a view of the glacier:
At Jungfraujoch you got a view of the Jungfrau and accompanying peaks as well as the snow-covered glacier. 
Jungfrau from Jungfraujoch
"Bird's eye" view of the glacier
Jungfrau from the Sphinx area
Glacier and mountains
There was a so-called ice palace where the floors and walls were made completely of ice, with various ice sculptures inside.
The Eiger and rack railroad
Interlaken and Lake Brienz
Soon made my way back down to Interlaken, and got to the car at 18:30 Swiss/19:30 Italian time, with only a few francs to buy gas. Headed straight home, only stopping for gas, and at the border where the Swiss wanted to look in my trunk. And the Italians wanted to have a long conversation with an American. Also stopped in Brig to see about taking the train ferry across the border, but it seemed to have stopped running for the night. 

Friday, June 22, 1979
Arrived home at 1:30.

Sunday, June 17, 1979

Bocce and Diano Marina (6/16-17/1979)

Friday, June 15, 1979
Drove to Torino to work with Claudio and had the usual delicious lunch. Afterwards drove the aunt and grandmother to a shop where they learned to operate Claudio’s cassette recorder.  Then I took the aunt to her apartment and took the grandmother home again. Got to see another section of Torino.

That evening Gianni, Franco, Maresa and I went to visit one of their friends, and then went out for ice cream in Lanzo.

Saturday, June 16, 1979
I spent the day at the P's, having lunch, going to the bar in Villanova for coffee, played some bocce, and had dinner again in Nole – spareribs and baked potatoes. The usual four drove up a mountain above Corio that evening.

Sunday, June 17, 1979
Woke up before 6:00 to leave at 6:15 with Signore B, Arturo, Maria Teresa and an uncle to take the Autostrada to the Riviera. Slept most of the way. Stopped for breakfast in the town adjacent to Diano Marina before then arriving at the Hotel Gabriella. A very nice hotel right on the beach, with beach chairs allotted by room number, cabinas/cabanas, a play area (bocce, etc.), and a dining room for the guests and an area outside for breakfast. Most of the guests seemed to be Germans and older couples.
Postcards from Hotel Gabriella:

Thursday, June 14, 1979

Roma (6/11-14/1979)

Monday, June 11, 1979
Decided to go to Roma for a couple days on the spur of the moment. Although the attention from Gianni was very flattering, I was overwhelmed and felt I needed to get away for a bit. The guards would not let me drive to Cirie because they feared the car would be stolen if left parked there. So Attilio drove me to the train station in Cirie. Bought a one-way ticket because a round trip must be used within 24 hours it seems. Took a second-class coach (like the usual U.S. trains), which left Cirie at 20:30 and arrived in Torino about a half hour later, passing the usual commuter train scenery. But many traffic barriers are still operated by hand. Arrived at Giulio Cesare station where a taxi driver told me walking was bad for the heart! Walked to Porta Nuova with only the usual Torino vexations. Bought a round trip ticket to Roma, which must be used within four days. Just missed one train so took the 22:00 train. Found an empty second-class compartment, but was joined by a rakish young fellow. There was another empty compartment, so I moved. Thought I was settled, but after the train started, a military kid moved in. I think he was a bit disappointed when the rakish young fellow then asked to join us. So the military kid fell asleep while the other guy seemed to be hyperactive. Kept patting my hand and talking to me nose to nose. We were joined at a later station by a middle-aged man, and a hippie and his dog. The military kid got off soon after, and then the dog decided to get off at a station without his master! So the hippie got off at the next station. The rest of us slept through to Roma, where we left the hyperactive one still sleeping!

Tuesday, June 12, 1979
Arrived in Roma at 7:30. The train station wasn't all that big and was more or less open all around. In front there was mass confusion of buses and a Metro portal. Bought a guidebook and map, and started walking, but soon decided to take the advice of the Roman family who spent Easter with the B family. I found a phone booth and saw the American Express Travel Agency was not far away. It wasn't open when I arrived, but others were waiting. Explored the immediate vicinity, which had the Spanish Steps and expensive shops.
Spanish Steps
I took advantage of an American Express tour with an English-speaking guide. Had a nice air-conditioned bus; it was a bit hot but a beautiful sunny day. Stopped at the Trevi Fountain but did not toss in any coins! Went to the Borghese Museum, which had some impressive sculptures by Bernini. Then to the Vatican City to see St. Peter’s Basilica and the Swiss Guards. After the tour, I re-walked some of the route of the tour to take pictures of spots where we didn't stop. 

I made it back to the American Express office in time to take the afternoon tour. We passed the Marcus Aurelius monument, the Vittoriano or Altare della Patria/Altar of the Fatherland, and stopped at the Roman Forum. Made another stop at the Coliseum and later at the Pantheon. I had discovered that my camera kept taking pictures way past 36! Apparently the film never advanced! So I changed the film and decided to take a grand walking tour to retake all the photos that I could. 
Piazza del Popolo
Ara Pacis Augustae/Altar of Augustan Peace, detail
Castel Sant'Angelo
Corso Vittorio Emanuele II bridge over the Tevere/Tiber
 Isola Tiberina with Farmacia Ospedale Fatebenefratelli/Hospital
Basilica dei Santi Bonifacio & Alessio
Palatino Hill
Arco di Costantino/Constantine's Arch
Colosseo/Coliseum
Colosseo/Coliseum
Colosseo/Coliseum interior
Arco di Costantino/Constantine's Arch from the other side
Colosseo/Coliseum with double-decker bus 
Roman Forum
Roman Forum
Column near the Santissimo Nome di Maria al Foro Traiano church
Vittoriano or Altare della Patria/Altar of the Fatherland
Marcus Aurelius Column
Pantheon
Entrance to the Vatican City
Piazza San Pietro and the Basilica di San Pietro
Fountain by the Basilica di San Pietro/St Peter's Basilica
Swiss Guards
Palazzo di Giustizia/Hall of Justice
Column in Piazza di Monte Citorio
Trevi Fountain
Trevi Fountain
I was already irritated enough, so when a black fellow kept pestering me, asking if I was from every country in South America, I had to do my best from pushing him away physically. He finally gave up. But then I ran into two flashers along the Tiber River. Later two kids came up to me and one even took my arm. I gave him the evil eye and he immediately backed away. Then at the Vittoriano a cute guy came up to me with the line of didn't he “know me from somewhere”, and I was a “student of art.” Finally made it back near the American Express office where I found a tolerable because cheap room in a pensione. I showered and went for an ice cream cone, only to have the vendor try to get to know me. Decided to hole up for the night!

Wednesday, June 13, 1979
Woke up at 8:00 and decided to take my own walking tour to see some new sights as well as retake photos. It turned out to be a hazy lousy picture-taking day with even a light shower about noon. First I went back to the Vatican City to see the museums and the Sistine Chapel. Already my feet were a bit sore, so I took advantage of the little bus back to the Piazza. I then went to the Pantheon again, then to the Capitoline Hill, passed the Marcello Theater on my way back to the Baths of Caracalla. 
Mussolini's balcony in Piazza Venezia
Capitoline Hill
Teatro di Marcello
Terme di Caracalla/Baths of Caracalla
Basilica di San Giovanni
This tour had one flasher, but otherwise just tolerable greeters. I then found St. Giovanni Cathedral and was absolutely tired. Found a Metro station near the Baths. It only cost 100 lire, but I didn't have the proper change. So I walked in through an open arch used as the exit. I wasn't the only one! I got off at the closest point to the American Express office, and even at this station I couldn't get a ticket! I half ran to the office and made it again just in time for the afternoon tour that took us past St. Mary Major to St. Peter in Chains. We then drove down the Appian Way to tour one of the catacombs. The tours there were led by the friars who take care of the catacombs. Then we went to St. Paul’s Outside the Walls before returning.
Basilica di San Paolo fuori le Mura/St Paul's Outside the Walls
St Paul's Outside the Walls cloister
I had heard from one of the tour guides that the Pope was giving an audience that evening. So I went to join the crowds and found a decent picture-taking spot. I hope this film is OK! The Pope is first driven around among the crowds, so I got a better look than I expected.
Pope John Paul II in his jeep
Pope John Paul II got closer!
Pope John Paul II far away on the steps of St Peter's Basilica
Soon after he began speaking (in Italian first) I left to walk to the railroad station. Since I had time before the 20:40 train, I went to a self-serve restaurant for dinner. A young man joined me at my table. And he was later to join us in our train compartment, which was then filled to capacity (8 persons). By midnight, only two fellows and myself were left. One fellow slept and the young man from the restaurant turned out to be another hyperactive. 

Thursday, June 14, 1979
But he finally fell asleep, and we left him sleeping in the car when we arrived in Torino at 8:00! Walked to the Giulio Cesare station only to discover there were no buses or trains to Cirie between 7:40 and 11:10. So I took the tram to the city’s edge, and hitched with a man who said he lived in Cafasse, but he did not know of Grosso. When I got out of the car, Angelo arrived at the corner, so I took the long way home with him, via Nole where I saw the B offices and met an English woman who works the switchboard. Was back at the B’s by 10:00.

That afternoon I took my daily trip to Torino to treat Claudio.

And that evening Gianni drove me into the mountains for a walk in a tiny town of Cantoira (Ceres). Later had drinks in Lanzo.