Thursday, June 14, 1979

Roma (6/11-14/1979)

Monday, June 11, 1979
Decided to go to Roma for a couple days on the spur of the moment. Although the attention from Gianni was very flattering, I was overwhelmed and felt I needed to get away for a bit. The guards would not let me drive to Cirie because they feared the car would be stolen if left parked there. So Attilio drove me to the train station in Cirie. Bought a one-way ticket because a round trip must be used within 24 hours it seems. Took a second-class coach (like the usual U.S. trains), which left Cirie at 20:30 and arrived in Torino about a half hour later, passing the usual commuter train scenery. But many traffic barriers are still operated by hand. Arrived at Giulio Cesare station where a taxi driver told me walking was bad for the heart! Walked to Porta Nuova with only the usual Torino vexations. Bought a round trip ticket to Roma, which must be used within four days. Just missed one train so took the 22:00 train. Found an empty second-class compartment, but was joined by a rakish young fellow. There was another empty compartment, so I moved. Thought I was settled, but after the train started, a military kid moved in. I think he was a bit disappointed when the rakish young fellow then asked to join us. So the military kid fell asleep while the other guy seemed to be hyperactive. Kept patting my hand and talking to me nose to nose. We were joined at a later station by a middle-aged man, and a hippie and his dog. The military kid got off soon after, and then the dog decided to get off at a station without his master! So the hippie got off at the next station. The rest of us slept through to Roma, where we left the hyperactive one still sleeping!

Tuesday, June 12, 1979
Arrived in Roma at 7:30. The train station wasn't all that big and was more or less open all around. In front there was mass confusion of buses and a Metro portal. Bought a guidebook and map, and started walking, but soon decided to take the advice of the Roman family who spent Easter with the B family. I found a phone booth and saw the American Express Travel Agency was not far away. It wasn't open when I arrived, but others were waiting. Explored the immediate vicinity, which had the Spanish Steps and expensive shops.
Spanish Steps
I took advantage of an American Express tour with an English-speaking guide. Had a nice air-conditioned bus; it was a bit hot but a beautiful sunny day. Stopped at the Trevi Fountain but did not toss in any coins! Went to the Borghese Museum, which had some impressive sculptures by Bernini. Then to the Vatican City to see St. Peter’s Basilica and the Swiss Guards. After the tour, I re-walked some of the route of the tour to take pictures of spots where we didn't stop. 

I made it back to the American Express office in time to take the afternoon tour. We passed the Marcus Aurelius monument, the Vittoriano or Altare della Patria/Altar of the Fatherland, and stopped at the Roman Forum. Made another stop at the Coliseum and later at the Pantheon. I had discovered that my camera kept taking pictures way past 36! Apparently the film never advanced! So I changed the film and decided to take a grand walking tour to retake all the photos that I could. 
Piazza del Popolo
Ara Pacis Augustae/Altar of Augustan Peace, detail
Castel Sant'Angelo
Corso Vittorio Emanuele II bridge over the Tevere/Tiber
 Isola Tiberina with Farmacia Ospedale Fatebenefratelli/Hospital
Basilica dei Santi Bonifacio & Alessio
Palatino Hill
Arco di Costantino/Constantine's Arch
Colosseo/Coliseum
Colosseo/Coliseum
Colosseo/Coliseum interior
Arco di Costantino/Constantine's Arch from the other side
Colosseo/Coliseum with double-decker bus 
Roman Forum
Roman Forum
Column near the Santissimo Nome di Maria al Foro Traiano church
Vittoriano or Altare della Patria/Altar of the Fatherland
Marcus Aurelius Column
Pantheon
Entrance to the Vatican City
Piazza San Pietro and the Basilica di San Pietro
Fountain by the Basilica di San Pietro/St Peter's Basilica
Swiss Guards
Palazzo di Giustizia/Hall of Justice
Column in Piazza di Monte Citorio
Trevi Fountain
Trevi Fountain
I was already irritated enough, so when a black fellow kept pestering me, asking if I was from every country in South America, I had to do my best from pushing him away physically. He finally gave up. But then I ran into two flashers along the Tiber River. Later two kids came up to me and one even took my arm. I gave him the evil eye and he immediately backed away. Then at the Vittoriano a cute guy came up to me with the line of didn't he “know me from somewhere”, and I was a “student of art.” Finally made it back near the American Express office where I found a tolerable because cheap room in a pensione. I showered and went for an ice cream cone, only to have the vendor try to get to know me. Decided to hole up for the night!

Wednesday, June 13, 1979
Woke up at 8:00 and decided to take my own walking tour to see some new sights as well as retake photos. It turned out to be a hazy lousy picture-taking day with even a light shower about noon. First I went back to the Vatican City to see the museums and the Sistine Chapel. Already my feet were a bit sore, so I took advantage of the little bus back to the Piazza. I then went to the Pantheon again, then to the Capitoline Hill, passed the Marcello Theater on my way back to the Baths of Caracalla. 
Mussolini's balcony in Piazza Venezia
Capitoline Hill
Teatro di Marcello
Terme di Caracalla/Baths of Caracalla
Basilica di San Giovanni
This tour had one flasher, but otherwise just tolerable greeters. I then found St. Giovanni Cathedral and was absolutely tired. Found a Metro station near the Baths. It only cost 100 lire, but I didn't have the proper change. So I walked in through an open arch used as the exit. I wasn't the only one! I got off at the closest point to the American Express office, and even at this station I couldn't get a ticket! I half ran to the office and made it again just in time for the afternoon tour that took us past St. Mary Major to St. Peter in Chains. We then drove down the Appian Way to tour one of the catacombs. The tours there were led by the friars who take care of the catacombs. Then we went to St. Paul’s Outside the Walls before returning.
Basilica di San Paolo fuori le Mura/St Paul's Outside the Walls
St Paul's Outside the Walls cloister
I had heard from one of the tour guides that the Pope was giving an audience that evening. So I went to join the crowds and found a decent picture-taking spot. I hope this film is OK! The Pope is first driven around among the crowds, so I got a better look than I expected.
Pope John Paul II in his jeep
Pope John Paul II got closer!
Pope John Paul II far away on the steps of St Peter's Basilica
Soon after he began speaking (in Italian first) I left to walk to the railroad station. Since I had time before the 20:40 train, I went to a self-serve restaurant for dinner. A young man joined me at my table. And he was later to join us in our train compartment, which was then filled to capacity (8 persons). By midnight, only two fellows and myself were left. One fellow slept and the young man from the restaurant turned out to be another hyperactive. 

Thursday, June 14, 1979
But he finally fell asleep, and we left him sleeping in the car when we arrived in Torino at 8:00! Walked to the Giulio Cesare station only to discover there were no buses or trains to Cirie between 7:40 and 11:10. So I took the tram to the city’s edge, and hitched with a man who said he lived in Cafasse, but he did not know of Grosso. When I got out of the car, Angelo arrived at the corner, so I took the long way home with him, via Nole where I saw the B offices and met an English woman who works the switchboard. Was back at the B’s by 10:00.

That afternoon I took my daily trip to Torino to treat Claudio.

And that evening Gianni drove me into the mountains for a walk in a tiny town of Cantoira (Ceres). Later had drinks in Lanzo.

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