1982 Versailles and Paris, France (7/26/1982)

Monday, July 26, 1982

Had our own breakfast of the leftover rolls from the Brussels hotel. Left at 9:00 to lock up our bags at Gare de l’Est and Sue cashed traveler's cheques. Took the Metro to St Michel (saw lots of mice running along the tracks) to change to the 10:00 RER train to Versailles, where we are headed even though it is closed on Mondays. Arrived at 10:30 and explored the palace grounds. There were a lot of people despite it being closed! The large extended grounds are full of statues, non-working fountains, avenues of trees, and manicured lawns. We went as far as Le Bassin d'Apollo/Chariot of Apollo, the fountain with the chariot and horses in the water. It was sunny but hazy.

Went to catch the 11:45 train to Paris, using our Eurail Passes in order to sit in 1st class. At the Pont St Michel station we walked to the Crêperie de Cluny on Rue de la Harpe, where we had planned on dessert last night. We discovered they also had savory crêpes, so we splurged. Shared a Maison (ham, cheese and mushrooms) and a Complète (ham and cheese with a fried egg on top), then had dessert with a sugar and butter crêpe, and a chocolate crêpe. It rained while we ate, but stopped when we were done.
Paid the 95.50 FF/$14.25 bill and headed for Notre Dame (1345 in Gothic style, one of the first to use flying buttresses). We noticed that one of the portals had the outline of a gable over it, as if it once had an entrance roof. Inside we saw the three rose windows, the statue of Vierge à l'Enfant/Virgin and Child (14C), and the carved panels in the chancery. Outside we walked completely around the cathedral to see its prettier right side and the flying buttresses from the rear.

At the opposite end of the Île de la Cité/City Isle in the Seine, we went in the courtyard of the Palais de Justice/Palace of Justice (1868), built on a former royal palace of which the Sainte Chapelle/Holy Chapel (1248) remains.

Sainte Chapelle ticket

We paid 4.50 FF/70 cents to enter to find we could only visit the lower chapel, since the upper chapel with the famous stained glass windows was under restoration. The lower chapel almost looked middle eastern, painted in blue and red with gold stars across the ceiling.

Back out in the courtyard we passed the Conciergerie, the original palace which has the prison where Marie Antoinette and others spent time before heading (ha, ha) to the guillotine.

Crossed Pont Neuf (1578-1607, oldest standing bridge over the Seine) for a closer look at the comical stone faces lining its outer walls. Walked over to the Rive Gauche/Left Bank to wander along the book stalls, most of which were closed today, but we still saw many old books, prints, and postcards for sale. One stall was completely unattended.

From St Michel we caught the Metro to Anvers to take the funicular up Montmartre. Climbed farther to Place du Tertre, with all the artists sketching portraits. Of course, many ask to do your portrait, and one asked me in Japanese. Several Asian guys were doing some of the better sketches. Other artists were painting landscapes in oil and some used palette “trowels”/knives instead of brushes.

Strange conversation in English: Onlooker (his back to me): “I think she’d like to buy your sketch.” Artist: “Anything is possible.” Artist to me: “What do you think of that proposition?” Me: I shrug, thinking, “Who? Me?” Artist: “Nothing?... Do you come from Guatemala?” Me (departing): “Non!”

Walked over to Basilique du Sacré-Cœur/Basilica of the Sacred Heart (1874-1914 designed by Paul Abadie) to sit for a while. We could hear muted organ music.

Took the funicular back down the hill, and the Metro from Anvers to the Opéra station to find the Galeries Lafayette department store. We first went to the do-it-yourself building, then across the street to the main store, built in Art Nouveau style in 1912 by architect Georges Chedanne. Saw the magnificent glass dome over the perfume counters. Took the escalator to the 4th floor Paris exhibition showing an old subway station with souvenir shops. Down on the 2nd floor we stood on the balcony to look up at the dome.

Took the Metro from d’Antin to FDR and came out of the station to have supper at the Champs-Élysées branch of McDonald’s. I had a Big Mac attack for 18.20 FF/$3. We ate on tall stools in the basement. Followed this by sitting at the Le Madrigal Café on the Avenue to nurse cups of tea while people-watching. Where are all the fashionable Parisians? A lot of weirdos like the guy with the checkerboard-dyed hair or the guy wearing a culotte (divided skirt). We stayed until 21:15 to stroll up the Champs-Élysées, hoping the Arc de Triomphe would be lighted by the time we reached it. It wasn’t. Took the Metro from DeGaulle to Anvers, and took the funicular back up Montmartre where Sacré-Cœur wasn’t lighted up yet. Stayed until it was and saw the city of Paris slowly light up in the haze. Also saw some fireworks on the horizon.
We walked down Montmartre, passing vendors selling fluorescent wands. Took the Metro from Anvers to Concorde to see the arches at each end of Champs-Élysées lighted up, as well as the fountains in Place de la Concorde and the Eiffel Tower. Finally the Metro from Concorde to Gare de l’Est. Again there were hordes of young men with gym bags; must be military since many of the train cars were reserved for the military, including one to Karlsruhe, Germany.
We got settled in a 1st class compartment and I went to spend the rest of our French change for cookies. Had to duck under the metal shutter they were closing at 23:30. Ran the gauntlet of hooting and whistling young military guys hanging out of the train windows on both sides of the platform. Settled in for the night.
[I was in Paris in 1979 and 1980.I was in Versailles in 1980.]