1982 End of London-Scandinavia Trip (7/28-31/1982)

Wednesday, July 28, 1982

The escalators were turned off at 2:00, then turned back on at 4:40, between which times I was able to sleep. I was playing a word game, finding as many words in both English and German from the letters of “Spezialitäten” when a guard came around checking doors. At 7:00 I checked my bags in a cloakroom, changed my English pounds to Swiss francs, and found Swiss Air where I could check in immediately and get the boarding pass.

Zürich to JFK ticket

Zürich to JFK boarding pass

I checked out some of the shops, and at 9:02 took a train in to Zürich to look for souvenirs, books in English, and chocolates. Took the 10:47 train back to the airport and walked over to Terminal A to the Air-Self Cafeteria for a lunch of a pork schnitzel and fries. I retrieved my bags and spent the rest of my change for a Time magazine. Then I went to change all my Swiss bills into U.S. dollars, and ended up with more Swiss change! Oh, well!

Went through passport control to Gate B36 and saw that everyone was Asian. I checked the board and went to gate B26! We were loaded onto buses at 12:40 and the flight took off at 14:00. Cocktails of tomato juice with smoked almonds, and later a lunch of geschnetzeltes veal in a wonderful sauce, with potatoes and broccoli, and a salad of shrimp, lox, peas and potatoes in mayonnaise, roll and butter, and spice cake for dessert. Hours later a snack and at 16:00 we were approaching New York City. The whole way I could look down on the ocean and saw several white flecks. Some of the flecks had wakes, so they must have been ships.

We had to circle for a half hour before landing, and then had a long wait for a gate. I was able to pick up my bag and backpack and march right down the hall for people with U.S. passports. No officials in sight, so I walked past baggage claim and through customs showing my passport, then out to call my grandmother at 17:00. Took the bus to the subway and paid $5/$5! for the JFK Express into Manhattan.

JFK Express ticket

I got off at Jay Street and transferred to the F-train to 4th Avenue, then changed to the RR-train into Brooklyn. Got off at 77th Street, walked back to 75th Street, then followed that over Third Avenue to visit my Grandma in her new apartment. Cousin Dot was at the vet with the cat, Charlie. He had to be left for observation; possibly has epilepsy.

When Dot came home at 20:30, we went out for dinner at the Royal Restaurant on 5th Avenue. I had a bacon-burger; the meat was so delicious! Plus potato salad, cole slaw, and an old fashioned pickle spear. The bill for three of us came to less than $20!

Took a bath in grey water (from me?).

Thursday, July 29, 1982

I helped with a couple errands this morning, picking up a heavy bundle from the Chinese laundry, and going to the post office and grocery store.

After lunch at 13:00 my grandmother walked me to the subway station to say goodbye. Took the RR and changed at 9th Street, having to walk from the subway to the elevated where half the people had to stop halfway to rest. Took the F-train to Jay Street and had just missed the JFK Express.

JFK Express ticket

Twenty minutes later an HH-train pulled in. I continued to sit and wait, until the driver yelled out that this was the train to the plane. We piddled along and then had to stop and wait for another train to leave the airport station. We pulled past the station to let a local train pull in and out. We shuttled as the driver maneuvered through the track switches before we backed into the station. The passengers hurried to their respective buses; I took the B-loop bus, arriving at the TWA terminal at 15:05 for my 15:15 flight! First I had to purchase my ticket for Buffalo at US Air for $79, then through x-ray, and ran down the long corridor to the gate. The desk agent asked “Buffalo?” and when I said yes, he had to unlock the door to the ramp, and I ran onto the half empty plane.

JFK to Buffalo ticket

We left 10 minutes late, but arrived on time at 16:25. It seemed we never got higher than a Swiss Alp, and I could see farms and rivers and forests.

Once in Buffalo I looked for a telephone in the construction mess of remodeling the airport, and it smelled like airplane glue! A half hour later Terry came with my mother to pick me up.

Back at the house, Kathy and Rod J stopped by! They are now stationed in England and are home on leave to that Rod’s parents could meet the new baby, Angela, who is starting to walk! We visited with Joe C at PizzAmerica, then I drove them to Rod’s parents’ house. Mikayla seemed to remember me and Angela was all smiles.

Friday, July 30, 1982

Organized slides, went to the post office to mail the gold coin to Jan & Kirby insured-return receipt, cashed my income tax checks at the bank, stopped at a travel agency to purchase my return ticket to Switzerland but they couldn’t take my BritRail Pass, and Terry cut my hair.

Saturday, July 31, 1982

Finished packing, tried to get my camera cleaned but it would take 3-4 weeks, went to the issuing travel agency to get the BritRail refund, spent the afternoon with Kathy J, visited Linda S, and that evening the family participated in a chocolate taste test (Swiss milk chocolate won).

1982 Heidelberg, Germany (7/27/1982)

Tuesday, July 27, 1982

The train left at 0:10. Sue loaned me her down vest that I really needed to keep warm in the air-conditioned car, and it helped me to sleep better.

Soon after 7:00 we went through Strasbourg, crossing the border into Kehl, Germany. Got off in Offenburg at 7:55 to change to the 8:20 InterCity train to Karlsruhe. We bought the 5 DEM/$2 supplements before we boarded.

Offenburg to Karlsruhe supplement

Arrived at 8:55 and Sue called her cousin, Janet K, first getting someone else because she dialed the area code. Janet would come pick us up in 15 minutes, but it took longer because, of course, the one-year old Amanda chose then to dirty her diaper. Sue bought three yellow roses as a hostess gift. They had a nice new blue Volvo wagon with all the extras and it took 10-15 minutes to reach the Paul Revere Village, a housing compound for the U.S. military. The apartment was huge; although only two bedrooms, living room, kitchen and bath, each room was gigantic. After a couple hours of visiting, we had lunch of Sloppy Joes and Pringles potato chips.

We all bundled into the car and first drove to the base where Lt David K was supervising the pouring of concrete for a driveway to truck sheds. Janet showed her ID at the gate, but pretended not to understand the German guards that we were supposed to check-in at the office. They finally waved us in with a shrug of shoulders. David came to the car to give directions to Heidelberg, and we left for a gas station, where Janet used coupons to get gas. We sped off to Heidelberg on the Autobahn, with Sue and Janet talking up front, and I was amusing Mandy in the back seat. Arrived in Heidelberg about 15:30 and parked up at the castle for 1.50 DM/60 cents. The Heidelberg Schloss/Castle was partly in ruins because of wars, fires, and lightning bolts in 17C & 18C. We walked around the hillside of the castle, then entered the courtyard. Went through to the terrace on the cliff side of the castle for a view of red tile rooftops and the brown Neckar River.

View from Heidelberg Schloss/Castle

Sue and I paid 10 DEM/$4 each to see the Großes Fass/giant wine vat, actually an enormous keg 7 m/23’ in diameter, with a statue of the dwarf, Perkeo, who was a court jester known for his alcohol consumption and his ingenious clock.

Heidelberg Schloss/Castle ticket

Someone went up to the clock and pulled a ring underneath resulting in the sound of the bell you could see inside, then a white tail of some sort popped out to smack the face of the bell ringer. There were stairs to a platform behind the vat where they had wine-tastings. We wandered through the gardens before heading back to Karlsruhe.

Heidelberg Schloss/Castle, west side

Heidelberg Schloss/Castle, east side

At about 18:00, David drove me to the train station, and I had time to buy a supplement from a vending machine and change all my German money into Swiss, before boarding the 19:00 train to Zürich. Sue would visit with her cousin before returning to London for her flight back to the U.S.

Our travels marked with a black line

The conductor told me I did not need a Zuschlag/supplement (10 DEM/$4 donation to the Deutsche Bundesahn (DB)/German Federal Railways!

Karlsruhe to Zürich train supplement 

Sue and Janet had packed me a brown bag meal of a ham and cheese sandwich, chips, a banana, and a Ring Ding! Arrived in Zürich at 22:00 and took the 22:13 train to the Zürich Flughafen/airport, arriving a few minutes later.

Found the Capitol Air desk and saw the flight has been changed to leave at 13:20 and I am supposed to check-in at Swiss Air, but I can’t figure out where that is. The airport is pretty empty, but there is a discotheque that is open until 4:00, so I am hoping I can sit in the airport all night. The baggage lockers are not in service and of course the baggage check is closed. Some of the lights were turned off, but the Muzak kept playing.

1982 Versailles and Paris, France (7/26/1982)

Monday, July 26, 1982

Had our own breakfast of the leftover rolls from the Brussels hotel. Left at 9:00 to lock up our bags at Gare de l’Est and Sue cashed traveler's cheques. Took the Metro to St Michel (saw lots of mice running along the tracks) to change to the 10:00 RER train to Versailles, where we are headed even though it is closed on Mondays. Arrived at 10:30 and explored the palace grounds. There were a lot of people despite it being closed! The large extended grounds are full of statues, non-working fountains, avenues of trees, and manicured lawns. We went as far as Le Bassin d'Apollo/Chariot of Apollo, the fountain with the chariot and horses in the water. It was sunny but hazy.

Went to catch the 11:45 train to Paris, using our Eurail Passes in order to sit in 1st class. At the Pont St Michel station we walked to the Crêperie de Cluny on Rue de la Harpe, where we had planned on dessert last night. We discovered they also had savory crêpes, so we splurged. Shared a Maison (ham, cheese and mushrooms) and a Complète (ham and cheese with a fried egg on top), then had dessert with a sugar and butter crêpe, and a chocolate crêpe. It rained while we ate, but stopped when we were done.
Paid the 95.50 FF/$14.25 bill and headed for Notre Dame (1345 in Gothic style, one of the first to use flying buttresses). We noticed that one of the portals had the outline of a gable over it, as if it once had an entrance roof. Inside we saw the three rose windows, the statue of Vierge à l'Enfant/Virgin and Child (14C), and the carved panels in the chancery. Outside we walked completely around the cathedral to see its prettier right side and the flying buttresses from the rear.

At the opposite end of the Île de la Cité/City Isle in the Seine, we went in the courtyard of the Palais de Justice/Palace of Justice (1868), built on a former royal palace of which the Sainte Chapelle/Holy Chapel (1248) remains.

Sainte Chapelle ticket

We paid 4.50 FF/70 cents to enter to find we could only visit the lower chapel, since the upper chapel with the famous stained glass windows was under restoration. The lower chapel almost looked middle eastern, painted in blue and red with gold stars across the ceiling.

Back out in the courtyard we passed the Conciergerie, the original palace which has the prison where Marie Antoinette and others spent time before heading (ha, ha) to the guillotine.

Crossed Pont Neuf (1578-1607, oldest standing bridge over the Seine) for a closer look at the comical stone faces lining its outer walls. Walked over to the Rive Gauche/Left Bank to wander along the book stalls, most of which were closed today, but we still saw many old books, prints, and postcards for sale. One stall was completely unattended.

From St Michel we caught the Metro to Anvers to take the funicular up Montmartre. Climbed farther to Place du Tertre, with all the artists sketching portraits. Of course, many ask to do your portrait, and one asked me in Japanese. Several Asian guys were doing some of the better sketches. Other artists were painting landscapes in oil and some used palette “trowels”/knives instead of brushes.

Strange conversation in English: Onlooker (his back to me): “I think she’d like to buy your sketch.” Artist: “Anything is possible.” Artist to me: “What do you think of that proposition?” Me: I shrug, thinking, “Who? Me?” Artist: “Nothing?... Do you come from Guatemala?” Me (departing): “Non!”

Walked over to Basilique du Sacré-Cœur/Basilica of the Sacred Heart (1874-1914 designed by Paul Abadie) to sit for a while. We could hear muted organ music.

Took the funicular back down the hill, and the Metro from Anvers to the Opéra station to find the Galeries Lafayette department store. We first went to the do-it-yourself building, then across the street to the main store, built in Art Nouveau style in 1912 by architect Georges Chedanne. Saw the magnificent glass dome over the perfume counters. Took the escalator to the 4th floor Paris exhibition showing an old subway station with souvenir shops. Down on the 2nd floor we stood on the balcony to look up at the dome.

Took the Metro from d’Antin to FDR and came out of the station to have supper at the Champs-Élysées branch of McDonald’s. I had a Big Mac attack for 18.20 FF/$3. We ate on tall stools in the basement. Followed this by sitting at the Le Madrigal Café on the Avenue to nurse cups of tea while people-watching. Where are all the fashionable Parisians? A lot of weirdos like the guy with the checkerboard-dyed hair or the guy wearing a culotte (divided skirt). We stayed until 21:15 to stroll up the Champs-Élysées, hoping the Arc de Triomphe would be lighted by the time we reached it. It wasn’t. Took the Metro from DeGaulle to Anvers, and took the funicular back up Montmartre where Sacré-Cœur wasn’t lighted up yet. Stayed until it was and saw the city of Paris slowly light up in the haze. Also saw some fireworks on the horizon.
We walked down Montmartre, passing vendors selling fluorescent wands. Took the Metro from Anvers to Concorde to see the arches at each end of Champs-Élysées lighted up, as well as the fountains in Place de la Concorde and the Eiffel Tower. Finally the Metro from Concorde to Gare de l’Est. Again there were hordes of young men with gym bags; must be military since many of the train cars were reserved for the military, including one to Karlsruhe, Germany.
We got settled in a 1st class compartment and I went to spend the rest of our French change for cookies. Had to duck under the metal shutter they were closing at 23:30. Ran the gauntlet of hooting and whistling young military guys hanging out of the train windows on both sides of the platform. Settled in for the night.
[I was in Paris in 1979 and 1980.I was in Versailles in 1980.]

1982 Paris, France (7/25/1982)

Sunday, July 25, 1982

We had ordered breakfast for 7:30, but it didn’t come until 7:50. We gulped down the tea and one roll with butter, and put the rest of the rolls in the food bag, so that we could check out at 8:00. Outside a huge market was set up, and we walked straight through it to the train station to catch the 8:15 train to Paris, arriving at 11:18. In the station there were lines everywhere; for youth info, tourist info, and money exchange. There was a board listing hotels and prices so we got an idea of the costs. Walked outside of Gare du Nord and started hotel hunting. The first two hotels did not have any double rooms, but the third did for 112 FF/$16.70. We took the room and although it was only 11:30, we were allowed in the room to leave our bags. We had come in the rear door of Hotel Albert 1er. As we left through the front door, the desk clerk gave us a map of Paris.
We walked the short couple of blocks to the Gare de l’Est to check train schedules. Bought a 2-day tourist pass for the Metro for 40 FF/$6 and used it to go to the Palais Royal station, from where we went to Le Louvre. A crowd of people were waiting to get in, and they were let in in small bunches. Finally it was our turn, and we made a beeline for La Joconde (the Mona Lisa, 1503-1506, by Leonardo da Vinci), who behind her glaring/reflective protective glass smiled benignly and kept an eye on everyone. Winged Victory of Samothrace (2C BCE) and Venus de Milo (c. 100 BCE) were the major works to see. It was so crowded because Sunday is a free day at the art museum.

Outside there were a lot of toy (wind-up flying birds), jewelry, and art vendors. We headed to Jeu de Paume, but found our way blocked by a police cordon lining the major road around the Louvre end of Tuileries Gardens. Bicycles with pacers on mopeds zoomed by. We returned to the Palais Royal Metro station and Sue pointed out a Paris Metro T-shirt that I bought for 45 FF/$6.70.

Took the Metro to the Bastille to see the Colonne de Juillet/July Column (1835-1840) with the gilded statue of Génie de la Liberté/Spirit of Freedom by Auguste Dumont. Walked to Place des Vosges with its 17C arcaded façades and the Victor Hugo Museum, free today, to see all the sketches and paintings, knick knacks, etc.

Victor Hugo Museum ticket

Next to Carnavalet Museum to see old Paris objects, Louis period rooms, and Marie Antoinette’s locket of hair.

Carnavalet Museum ticket

Napoleon’s glove was in the only closed section of the building, which was in the form of a cross in a square so that you toured in figure eights.

Took the Metro form the St Paul’s station to the Franklin D Roosevelt stop and came up by a McDonald’s. But Sue wanted a Frenchier place for lunch! Because of the crowds lining Avenue des Champs-Élysées, we had to cross underground. We were looking for a place that served omelettes and ended up at the New Store Restaurant. We went to sit down, and were told to go further back if we wanted to eat. The waitress at the bar sent us further back and we sat near a fish tank. A snotty waitress gave us menus in English and made us point at the item we wanted. Another waitress came to help with translation, but she only spoke French. So we just ordered in French, two cheese omelettes with tea and limonade. With 15% service, the bill came to 56.80 FF/$8.50.

We worked our way through the crowds and shuffled through a bottleneck caused by a sidewalk café that extended almost to the street which was blocked. Vendors were selling foot-long bicycles. (NB. This was day of the final leg of the Tour de France!)

From FDR, we went one stop and changed to go to the Varenne station, and walked to visit the Rodin Museum which was half price today at 4 FF/60 cents.

Rodin Museum ticket

Saw Le Penseur/the Thinker (1902) and the variety of sculptures by Auguste Rodin. Walked around L'Hôtel national des Invalides/the National Residence of the Invalids (1670-1676), a hospital and home for war veterans. We saw one of the residents tooling along in his power wheelchair. Passed the Panthéon (1758-1790), a mausoleum for French notables, notably Napoléon Bonaparte.

Found the La Tour Maubourg station to take the Metro to Concorde where we came up in the Place de la Concorde, which was being cleared of barricades and traffic was coming through. This time we got to the Jeu de Paume Museum, but it was closed for restoration.

From Concorde we metro-ed to Charles de Gaulle-Étoile to walk around the Arc de Triomphe (1830s). Took the Metro to Bir-Hakeim and walked along the Seine River to the Tour Eiffel (1889). One elevator had just shut down at 18:30, as we got in line for the east pillar elevator. Paid 26 FF/$4 to take the incline elevator to the second level, and you actually had to go down a landing to wait for the elevator to the third level.  We were told there was an hour wait, but we had a 15-minute wait. Halfway up this section we had to change elevators by walking right from one into the other. Made it to the third level by 19:30, for a fine but grey view of the city, and picked out landmarks with the help of labeled photographs. We discovered stairs to a 4th level. Eventually made our way back down, and waiting for the elevator to go down took almost as long as to come up!

We went to the Champs de Mars Réseau Express Régional/Regional Express Network (RER) station to get a train along the Seine to Pont St Michel. St Michel Place was a lively place with fountains, street musicians, and crowds of people. Walked along Rue de la Harpe which was full of little restaurants, then to Rue St Séverin to the Restaurant Vieille Paris for paella alicante and couscous poulet which was to take 20 minutes to make, but took a half hour. The paella came in a skillet and what little rice there was cooked to a hard crunchiness, but it included a quarter chicken, 2 crayfish, several shrimp and pieces of squid, a few mussels and a couple mystery meats. The couscous came in a separate dish with a bowl of vegetable stew (celery, turnip, carrot, chick peas) and a grilled half-chicken, plus a teensy pot of hot sauce. There was a basket of bread that we didn’t touch. The total bill with 15% service charge came to 96.60 FF and we left a 100 FF/$15 bill because the waiter was so much friendlier than the waitress at lunch. We were too stuffed to get dessert at a crêperie like we had planned. At the restaurant across the street they were roasting a whole pig.

Wandered in Place St Michel to listen (because we couldn’t see) the street musicians, then caught the Metro from St Michel to Gare de l’Est back to the hotel. Passed hundreds of single guys with gym bags headed to the station.
[I was in Paris in 1979 and 1980.]

1982 Bruges, Belgium (7/24/1982)

Saturday, July 24, 1982

The train continued through Germany, then at 10:20 we passed through customs into Belgium, arriving in Liège soon afterward. We hurried to track 13, thinking we missed the 10:19 train, but it didn’t come until 10:30. We arrived 15 minutes late in Brugge/ Bruges at 13:00. We checked the map of the town at the station, and headed towards tourist information. We realized that roads and footpaths were marked similarly on the map, and we were following roads when perhaps we should have followed the paths. Crossed two canals, followed a road, and crossed another canal hoping to find a green square. We did find another map with a big red ”you are here” dot. We crossed another canal and saw the park was to the right, although on the map it looked like it was to the left. Sue wanted to be safe and follow the map, and we went left, walking around a block to end up back at the map! Now that we had picked up some street names, we realized the red dot was mis-placed.

In the park was a small building with a room empty except for a rack of brochures and a telephone. It was ”closed” until 14:00. There was a brochure with hotels, and we went to look at the closest one, the kind where you inquire at the bar about a room. The bar was empty, because the proprietor was showing the last of his rooms. The couple weren’t sure and would call at 15:00 to confirm if they were taking the room. In drizzling rain we went to check our bags at the train station, and go to find the Studentum Centrum at #23. We found it at #27, but no one was at reception at 14:15, even though they were to open at 14:00. At 14:30 a man hobbled in on crutches to tell us there were no more rooms, but he gave us a couple recommendations. We passed one of several almshouses, small brick buildings that looked like chapels, which were open houses for the poor (but not anymore!). The first recommendation was an old building among beautiful suburban homes across from the psychiatric clinic grounds. It was completely shut down for summer vacation. We decided to go back to the information booth in the park to call, stopping at the first hotel on the way to learn that the couple had taken the room. In the info room, we called on the telephone to find out there are no more rooms in Bruges. We decided to tour and go to Brussels for the night.

We followed a walking tour found in a brochure, starting in Minnewaterpark/Lake of Love Park with many sculptures and a white pressboard maze. We walked past the Begijnhof/Béguinage/lay sisterhood community to a lane of lace shops. We stopped in several, getting lace butterfly pins and Sue got a lace collar she may incorporate into a blouse. The whole town was made up of medieval brick buildings and narrow cobblestoned streets. There were horse-drawn carriages for tourists and all the horses had cloth bags under their tails to catch the droppings.

We hoped to see lacemakers in Walplein, but either they don’t work on weekends, or the drizzle earlier chased them away. Followed a slightly more modern street with more lace shops. We crossed a canal where below were small motorboats filled with tourists being given explanations over loudspeakers, which seemed unnecessary when you have no more than a dozen passengers.

Across the canal was Oud Sint-Janshospitaal/Sint-Jan de Bruges/Old St John’s Hospital (11C) to one side and Onze-Lieve-Vrouwekerk/Église Notre-Dame/Church of Our Lady (13C, 14C, 15C) on the other.

Oud Sint-Janshospitaal/Sint-Jan de Bruges/Old St John’s Hospital

We entered the church that was full of paintings and carvings. Some paintings were hung on columns that were narrower than the painting was wide. The highlight was a sculpture of Madonna and Child (1504) done by Michelangelo. We turned right along a canal to the rear courtyard of Gruuthus (1465) which was completely covered with ivy, including the windows.

Ivy-covered Gruuthus

We stopped for some lemon and chocolate ice cream for 30 BEF/65 cents. Wandered in a flea market along the Dijver canal. On the other side of the street was the Europacollege/Collège d'Europe/College of Europe, an independent university founded in 1949 which is studying the aspects of unification of Europe. Farther past more lace shops was the Vismarkt/fish market that was not in business, but the covered market had nice stone tables around the perimeter for vendors. Crossed the canal and went up a narrow street that had official looking notices posted along one wall (marriage or divorce notices?).

Narrow street to Burg Square

Went under an arch to enter the Burg Square where on the right is the Oude Civiele Griffie/Old Civil Registry and next to that is the Brugsche Vrije/Palace of Liberty (1722-27). We paid 5 BEF/10 cents to go in the museum of Brugsche Vrije.

Brugsche Vrije/Palace of Liberty ticket

It was one large room with carved wood beam ceilings and coats-of-arms everywhere. There was a beautiful Renaissance chimney piece/fireplace (1531) where the mantel and above was carved oak depicting nobility and coats-of-arms. The mantel also had an alabaster relief with the biblical story of Susanna and the fireplace was black marble. There were fine tapestries and on two sides were several large paintings. There was a fancy bell pull, and a pair of giant inkstands on the judges’ table.

Back out in Burg Square to the left was the Stadhuis/City Hall (1376) and we did not pay the 20 BEF/45 cents to see the Gothic Hall because we got a good look through the huge open doorway at the richly decorated hall and the Gothic ceiling where the arch ribs come down and hang free rather than sit on columns.

Next door was the Heilig Bloed Basiliek/Basilique du Saint-Sang/Basilica of the Holy Blood (1134-1157) with upper and lower chapels. The upper chapel of the Holy Blood looked like two churches side by side, and on the right side behind the altar is where the phial of the Holy Blood is kept, a relic said to be a piece of cloth with the blood of Christ.

We left the square to walk along a lace shop-filled block to the Grote Markt/market square, now being used as a parking lot.

Grote Markt/Market Square

Across the square was a row of guildhouses with stepped roofs, but the dominant structure was the Hallen/Halles/market building with a fat bell tower, the Belfort/Beffroi/Belfry (1240).

Belfry ticket

We paid 20 BEF/45 cents to climb the 366 steps (they had counted and kept you posted as to how many you had climbed). Before we reached the top, the carillon bells began ringing and we stepped into a room to see the clock mechanism and the carillon mechanism (like a giant Swiss music box). At the top we stood under the bells and looked down on the red tile rooftops of Bruges.

View from the Belfry

Belfry bells

On our way down we passed a triumphal bell and a treasury vault (empty) with iron-grillework doors.

We rewarded ourselves with French fries with mayonnaise for 55 BEF/$1.20. Belgium is known for having the best French fries in the world. We noticed we were outside an official tourist bureau where signs stated that rooms were fully booked and they were making reservations for 30 km/18 miles from Bruges. But they could not make reservations in Brussels.

General view

We made our way back to the train station and retrieved our bags to catch the 18:35 train to Brussels, arriving at 19:45. We got off at the first Zuid-Midi/South Central Station, and saw an ”information booth for the youth.” We went there anyway and were booked a room at the Hotel Jamar for 850 BEF/$19, only a couple blocks from the station. We took a tiny elevator up to reception; the elevator door for reception was on one side, and the door to the room floors was on an adjacent side. Our room #56 was a large two-bed room with its own bathroom with a shower, and breakfast was included. We were impressed, and the fee was only 50 BEF/$1. We settled in, packed all the valuables in one backpack, and went back out to the train station to ask if we needed reservations for the train to Paris. Non!
We took the 20:40 train to the Central Station and walked out through the Galerie/shopping arcade to Rue des Bouchers, a lively street of little restaurants. Turned down Petit Rue des Bouchers with more of the same, including mussel bars, and chose a less crowded restaurant, Le Borgneau, sitting at a wooden table with paper placemats. The decor was maritime, with the characteristic fireplace in the center of the room. The fire burned evenly and bluely without consuming any wood!
We ordered soups (tomato for Sue and onion for me; almost a meal in itself) and one order of mussels and fries. We noticed an older couple with a grandma each order their own mussels and fries. You get a big pot of mussels (we counted at least 60!). We saw a guy using an empty half-shell to pry out the rest of his mussels, so I did the same, since Sue got our one set of silverware. The waitress then came over to give me a set of silverware and my own plate of fries (no charge!). Even though we were sharing a bowl of mussels, we barely made it through, dipping the mussels in the buttery broth. Very good for 650 BEF/$14. We strolled among the crowds in the lighted Grand Place. The perimeter cafés were all busy.
We returned to the train station to get the 22:20 train to the Midi Station. There we decided to walk along the carnival that was set up along the Boulevard du Midi, busy with rides, games, and food vendors. Back at the hotel we washed some clothes before getting to bed by midnight.

1982 Hillerød, Fredensborg, and Køge, Denmark (7/23/1982)

Friday, July 23, 1982

We were given a blue ticket at check-in that we had to give up for breakfast. There was tea and milk, a roll and a couple slices of bread with butter and jam. We went to the train station to make cuchette reservations for the night rain to Belgium, but they were full. So we made seat reservations for 12 DEK/$1.40 each. We put our bags in lockers, and found out we could use our Eurail Passes for the S-Tog/S-Train/Metro. Took the 9:02 train to Hillerød, arriving at 9:40 on a beautiful sunny day. We checked the station map of the town to plan our walk, then found signs pointing the way for pedestrians to reach the Frederiksborg Slot/Palace (1560, most 1602-1620). After a block we found ourselves in an area of warehouses, so we walked over a block to follow the main shopping street.

At Frederiksborg we crossed a moat, passed through a square, through a gate to cross another moat on a slight s-curve bridge, through a guardhouse, and into the main courtyard to face a tremendous palace.

Frederiksborg Slot/Palace

We paid 11 DEK/$1.30 and checked our backpacks. The clock played a familiar hymn at 10:00, as we started the tour.

Started in a large wood and gold room with a few pieces of furniture, then up stairs to a balcony around the Baroque Royal Chapel with an old organ and the highly decorated Royal Pew. The King’s Oratory had an ebony ceiling with ivory rosettes. We passed from one room to another, all decorated with paintings, plasterwork, and furnishings, to the Royal Living Quarters. Down a corridor and over a bridge to the audience hall, upstairs to another highly decorated hall, and next to that an even more decorated Knights’ Hall. Again through room after room of furniture, inlaid knickknacks, etc. And portraits galore! Out of the thousands of portraits, we found only one good-looking man. The subjects were royalty, military, literary, and government figures. Many of the older ones had bulging eyes, big noses, and prim mouths. We retrieved our packs at 11:15 and walked around the lake for another view before sitting in the shady grass for lunch.

Frederiksborg Slot/Palace

Returned to the station to take the 12:26 train to Fredensborg and arrived in thirteen minutes to walk for 15 minutes to the Fredensborg Slot/Palace (French-inspired baroque palace, 1720–1726). We walked through the gardens of long intersecting paths through woods, then a more formal garden behind the palace with shrubs and flowers in the shape of a coat-of-arms, perhaps. A rose garden with a water-lily filled moat, a pond with a spray fountain, a tennis court, and a mound with a zigzag path up it lined with low trimmed hedges.

We returned to the train station for the 13:40 train back to Hillerød, and changed to an S-Tog to Copenhagen. There we thought to take an express train to Roskilde, but the conductor would not allow us to board without reservations, So we took the 15:00 local, arriving in 25 minutes. In Roskilde we changed to the 15:50 train to Køge, a one-car train of the Ostbanen. That trip took 25 minutes across flat farmland. In Køge we found a supermarket to do some grocery shopping before exploring the town. Turned right on the main street of Nørregade and found red brick Sankt Nikolai Kirke/St Nicholas Church (1450-1500) with a thick square clock tower, where it is reported that prisoners were once held. Here and there were older timber buildings that were settling, and floor and roof lines were wavy and uneven. Some of the oldest timbered houses in Denmark are located here. We came to one end of town and turned around to walk back along another street, Kirkestræde, with more of these timber houses where people still lived and kept shops. Came to a busy Køge Torv/market square where an impromptu band was playing. Entered the City Hall (1552, Denmark’s oldest) courtyard to see the ultramodern addition behind it. Continued to the other end of town at a canal.

Køge canal

Turned around to walk back, taking detours down side alleys.

Medieval timbered buildings

Passed the Køge Museum which was also in a timbered building.

Køge Museum

Stopped at a bakery where Sue asked for a typical Danish pastry, getting a wienerbrød/Vienna bread (flaky pastry with sugar icing) and a specialty item, (kransekage/wreath cake, a small almond cake ring) that people have at weddings and christenings, ours was covered in pastry and dipped in chocolate.

Caught the 17:35 train to Roskilde, and the conductor spoke to us in Danish, perhaps telling us that this train ends in Roskilde and we would have to change. Arrived a few minutes after 18:00 and ran to the Inter City train that had just pulled in two tracks away, to arrive in Copenhagen at 18:30. Found a restaurant to each have a bowl of cream of asparagus soup, then share a mixed salad (very few lettuce leaves, mostly cabbage and celery, a green pepper, tomato, and cucumber) and a plate of a grilled half-chicken with French fries, peas and pickles, for a total of 122.25 DEK/$15. Spent the rest of our Danish change on a Herald Tribune newspaper and a pack of gum. Changed our Danish bills to Belgian francs.

Copenhagen to Liege seat reservation

We boarded the 21:10 train to Paris at 20:20 and were joined by a lady with a senior Inter Rail pass and an American couple from the Midwest. The old lady sitting by the window closed the window and put on a sweater. The rest of us were warm in the stuffy compartment, but Sue and I managed to keep the compartment door slightly open. At 23:30 the train boarded the ferry to Germany.

1982 Odense, Denmark (7/22/1982)

Thursday, July 22, 1982

I was freezing cold from a draft that abated if I closed the compartment door tightly. I must have closed the door ten times that night! I wasn’t able to get comfortable in my single seat; so much for being able to sleep sitting up! Sue had 1-1/2 seats and was able to curl up horizontally. I think I cried myself to sleep a couple times. When I decided to stay awake to watch for our station stop, then I started nodding off!

Arrived in Helsingborg at 6:15. Checked the train schedule and there are no trains to Denmark. However, the ferry was right next door and they left every 15 minutes. Put our bags in a locker and looked for a bench to sleep, but they were occupied with drunks and bums. Went out into the cool morning to look at a town map. We thought Helsingborg was surrounded by nine castles, but only one was in sight. Climbed up to the Helsingborg Slott/Castle ruins for a nice view of the town and harbor, and found a bench. While Sue slept, I caught up in the journal. Then Sue went off for a while and came back to announce a sunny place to eat breakfast. Behind the Kärnan/castle keep (14C) was a park with a playground. Little sparrows came within inches of our feet, so I tossed a few melon seeds which they ate. But when I dumped the bag where I had the melon innards full of seeds, they wouldn’t eat those.

We walked to tourist info which wasn’t open yet, so continued to Rådhuset/City Hall (1897, designed by architect Alfred Hellerström). The traffic light intersections here (like many places in Scandinavia and even London) used audible clicks or electronic beeps to let you know the light was green. Saw a bicycle built for two pulling a little trailer. At 9:00 we went to tourist information to learn that yes, there are many castles, but none you can get to by train, and some you can reach by bus. We decided not to bother, and retrieved our bags to catch the 9:20 ferry across the Øresund strait to Elsinore, Denmark. Our ferry was one of 5-6 run by the railroads, and was one of at least three different companies.

Helsingborg

Helsingør/Elsinore Kronborg/Hamlet's Castle

A pleasant journey and soon we could see Kronborg Slot/Castle (1574-1585, rebuilt in 1639 in Renaissance style), better known as Elsinore or Hamlet’s Castle, in Helsingør. William Shakespeare’s “The Tragedy of Hamlet, Prince of Denmark” was written in 1599-1602.

In Helsingør we boarded the local 10:00 train to København/Copenhagen, traveling past Danish homes with profuse flower gardens and small train stations with large bicycle parking lots, arriving at 10:50. We went to book 2 beds at the youth hostel for 60 DEK/$7 each.

Youth Hostel receipt

We hiked over to the other side of the train station to the American Express office where Sue cashed a traveler’s cheque, and asked if she had gotten any mail. She did, from her parents! Sue paid me back for the Finnish and Swedish currencies she borrowed, and I changed all my Swedish money to Danish. Went to the Rådhus/City Hall to see a statue of Hans Christian Andersen (1965 by Henry Luckow-Nielsen). After a lunch at Burger King, we caught the 13:00 train to Odense. The train boarded a ferry at Korsør and we went up on deck to get drinks, a squash soft drink. It had sediment, so I shook it, and when I opened the bottle, it fizzed and spouted a bit. Whoops! Sat in an air-conditioned lounge with a lot of boy scouts.

Arrived in Odense about 15:45 where the train station was undergoing remodeling. We started walking, going through a park, and down to a main street. A block over, we saw the new brick Rådhus/City Hall (1955) with an older front section (1881-83 in an Italian-Gothic style). There we found a tourist booth to get a map and directions to Hans Christian Andersen’s Birthplace. It was only a few blocks away on Hans Jensens Stræde/Street, a cobblestoned lane of small wooden houses with multiple small panes in the windows.

Hans Jensens Stræde/Street

We entered a side building to the museum which takes you through the rooms of the house where Hans Christian Andersen was born.

Hans Christian Andersen Museum ticket

Hans Christian Andersen Birthplace

The photo/memorabilia exhibit was well-displayed, but maybe a bit too detailed. For instance, HAC’s father was put in an asylum and they had the floor plan of the asylum. Anyone who ever encountered HAC was remembered by a photo of themselves, their house, or a gift (such as a poem or scissor-cutout). HAC worked hard for fame and did receive it during his lifetime. He was unhappy in love, but had famous friends such as Jenny Lind and Charles Dickens. There were portraits and a domed room with primitive paintings around it depicting his life. Also a library and a room full of first editions with the walls covered with illustrations from his fairy tales.

Street in the neighborhood

We went out to view the other houses in the area, then stopped in the souvenir shop. Sue bought a really nice 3-dimensional cut-out Christmas tree. We walked to the Odense Domkirke/Cathedral or St Knuds Kirke/St Canute’s Church (1300-1499). Behind it was a beautiful arboreal garden surrounded by a narrow canal.

Hans Christian Andersen's garden behind the cathedral

Next we went to see Hans Christian Andersen's Barndomshjem/Childhood Home, before we returned to the train station.

Caught the 18:16 train to Copenhagen, and at 18:45 we were in Nyborg for the train to board the ferry. We stayed in the train compartment during this crossing. It seems like the whole railroad system is transporting scouts today!

Arrived in Copenhagen at 21:15 and walked to the youth hostel. We were going to take turns showering, but Sue came back to tell me there were no lights in the showers, and I’d better shower while there was still some daylight! When we checked in, we were given cardboard disks with our bed number on them; no keys here. We were in a 14-bed room.

1982 Stockholm, Sweden (7/21/1982)

Wednesday, July 21, 1982

Must have fallen asleep since we did not hear the disco break up. But at 4:00 there was a group talking and singing along (terribly) to a plucking guitar.

We arrived in Stockholm on the dot at 7:00, and were one of the first off the boat, giving up our landing cards, going through customs, and then to information to buy a map of Stockholm for 5 SEK/85 cents. Followed signs pointing to the Tunnelbana/Metro to the Gärdet Station. We lined up at a booth to buy tickets when the girls in front of us were sent to the vending machine kiosk. We followed them and they bought tourist tickets. We wanted individual tickets, and were sent back to the ticket booth! We each bought two 2-SEK/35 cent coupons to ride the subway, an older train, to the Centralstation/Central Station.

Tunnelbana/Metro tickets

We reserved seats on the 23:13 train to Helsingborg for 10 SEK/$1.70. They had a women’s waiting room where we put our bags in lockers. We went to sit in a park to eat breakfast and watched the businessmen go to work. Many were not wearing suits, and those who did were not wearing ties. Walked to Gamla stan/old town and found their nicely decorated Riddarhuset/House of Nobility (1660).

Riddarhuset/House of Nobility

Circled around the House to Riddarholmen/Knight’s Islet with the Riddarholmskyrkan/Riddarholm Church (13C) with an interesting lacework steeple.

Riddarholmskyrkan/Riddarholm Church

The church is the burial place of Swedish royalty. Worked our way to the Kungliga slottet/Royal Palace (1697-1760 in Baroque style), guarded by the Högvakten/Royal Guards in spats. The palace houses several museums, but they opened at 10:00, 11:00, and even 12:00. Since it was only 9:00, we continued down Västerlånggatan which was full of interesting shops and restaurants and had narrow alleys to each side.

Gamla stan/old town

The sidewalks are traversed by tiny gutters cut in the stone; same as in Bergen, Norway. We found Mårten Trotzigs gränd/Alley of Mårten Trotzig, the narrowest street (with steps!) in Stockholm tapering to 90 cm/35.5” wide.

Mårten Trotzigs gränd/Alley of Mårten Trotzig

We reached the water’s edge where we could see the af Chapman ship anchored at another island. This three-master is used as a youth hostel.

Vandrarhem/Hostel af Chapman

We walked back along Stora Nygatan to exit the island and go to Stadshuset/City Hall (1911-1923 by Ragnar Östberg in National Romanticism style), an imposing red brick building. We paid 3 SEK/50 cents and received a golden token for the guided tour at 10:00 where the tourists were divided according to language. We started in the Blå hallen/Blue Hall which was meant to be tiled in blue, but they left the brick bare (hoorah!). Upstairs we deposited the token in the elaborate cup of an attendant, and went down a hall into a boardroom-like area where sub-committees hold their meetings. There was a plaster sculpture of the Stockholm patron St Erik who is usually portrayed with one foot on a troll for stamping out paganism. Walked through the library to the assembly hall with red silk drapes and a wood beam roof that was symbolically painted (a blue strip for sky, for example). Then on to the tower to see the figures that promenade at noon every day.
We passed through hand-carved wooden doors, through a room of beautiful tapestries, and into a corridor with round and octagonal columns paired to represent man and woman. Rough clay reliefs along one wall were on the same theme. The back wall fresco was painted by Prince Eugen, younger brother of the king (Gustaf V) at the time the hall was built. Through a simple room with a wooden wardrobe carved with significant figures to the Gyllene Salen/Golden Hall filled with gold mosaics that were symbolic, depicting Stockholm, the history of Sweden, and Sweden as the “Queen of Peace” uniting countries of the East with the West. The Nobel Prize banquets are held in this hall.
Back outside, we went to climb the stairs of the tower, but then noticed people putting gold tokens in a man’s container. We hesitated and turned to leave, but the man called us over and asked if we were students. We had to say ‘No.’ He motioned us in anyway and we began to climb the stairs; marble then brick. Nearing the top we were in narrow brick tunnels around the perimeter of the square tower. We would go up three steps, follow a ramp, then do a left, right, left turn at each corner of the tower. Because of the ramps, we felt like we were in an Escher print, and were going round and round the tower without ascending at all! We passed an area with copies of statues, more brick steps, some wooden ones, before finally coming out on top with a view over Stockholm. You could climb still higher to the platform under the bells, and the railing had copper reliefs with arrows pointing out landmarks.

View of Gamla stan/Old town

Commuter train

Stadshuset/City Hall courtyard

Where's the traffic?

Stadshuset/City Hall garden

My camera’s light meter red light has been hopping up and down and sometimes the shutter stays open, yet the battery checks out okay.

After descending from the tower, we sat in the garden for a rest, before heading out through the courtyard.

Stadshuset/City Hall tower

We heard the bells strike noon, and ran outside to see the figures that parade out.

Walked along the water’s edge past the Gamla stan/old town and stopped in the Grand Hotel to see their Renaissance elegance. We were not impressed. We continued around the little peninsula and down along the wharf where many very old boats were docked. Many seemed to be undergoing reconstruction. We crossed the bridge to Djurgården, past the Nordiska museet/Nordic Museum (1907 designed by Isak Gustaf Clason) where they seemed to be having an operatic rehearsal out in the back on a trailer stage.

At the Wasavarvet/Wasa Ship Yard, we paid the 7 SEK/$1.20 admission and first saw an exhibit of wooden sculptures, most being figureheads, including one of a lion.

Wasavarvet/Wasa Ship Yard receipt

The room was very humid to preserve the wooden items. The Wasa was a warship (1626-1628) built for use during the Thirty Years War. Due to changes in the plans and poor construction, it was top heavy and on its maiden voyage a gust of wind caused it to capsize in the Stockholm harbor! In those days they were unable to recover a sunken ship, and it was forgotten. In 1953 a marine researcher discovered the boat and it was raised in 1961. We joined the 14:00 tour of the boat itself. Going up the steps, we could look out across the harbor and see the ice boat and lighthouse boat that are also on display. The Wasa is kept in a humidity-controlled building and walkways bring you very close to the ship. We walked around the ship to see the myriad of wood sculpture decorations. A Polish nobleman hiding and shouting at a dog was to insult their enemy at the time. The lion figurehead (meant to scare) was holding a shield with a corn sheath (the meaning of the name Wasa). We saw a movie in Swedish with English subtitles giving the history of the ship. There was an exhibit on life on board the ship, with clothing, tools, etc., and a cute model showing activities on board.

We ordered lunch at the cafeteria, fish and meatballs. The fish was stuffed with shrimp and came with a ladleful of tartar sauce and four good-sized boiled potatoes. There were ten meatballs and a generous mound of mashed potatoes with loganberry sauce. With drinks, we certainly had our fill for 37.50 SEK/$6.25. We ate outside on a balcony overlooking the water and the ugly metal structure encasing the Wasa.

Went to look for the post office, passing the Gröna Lund amusement park. Outside the circus there were men in tails and women in Roaring 20s dresses (on break?). We climbed the hill and found a Skansen entrance that was closed. Went around to another entrance which was where the Bergbana funicular was located. We were trying to decide if we had enough time for the Skansen friluftsmuseum med djurpark/Open Air Museum with Zoo, since it was now 15:00 and it closed at 17:00. Just then a guy came up asking in English if we would join his group to make it over ten persons in order to get in for half price. Sure! So we each paid 6 SEK/$1 instead of 12 SEK/$2. We headed up to the old town on the right with a printer, bookbinder (closed), an engraver (at work), and a saddlemaker (gone fishing). We saw a silver presser in the goldsmith shop, and a man spinning clay in the potter’s shop with wonderful pottery for sale. A fabric shop (block printing) in a tannery and a glass blower making a goblet. The combmaker, the cobbler, the grocery, and… there was so much! A manor house and grounds, several farm complexes, all open and well furnished with all sorts of paraphernalia. School, assembly hall, bell tower, church, and even a tower built for the spa that Skansen was supposed to be. It became an open-air museum instead in something like 1891!

An open-air theater, restaurants, cafés, souvenir stands, lottery stands, duck ponds, peacocks, and dancing area. We went to use a restroom and an old lady said, “Neigh! Neigh!” and slammed the door in Sue’s face. I gave Sue a krona coin, and she had to try a couple doors to get one to open. Another woman was not able to shut her door because the bolt was drawn. When she left, I used her stall.

We went to consult the map of Skansen, and noted that the zoo had rendjur/reindeer! At last! Passed a couple more farms (all the museum buildings were closed by now) on our way to the Lapp hut near the reindeer compound. There were many reindeer, some with enormous antlers, and most shedding their winter coats.

Rendjur/Reindeer

Rendjur/Reindeer

We saw goats, deer, bears (wonderful to watch them at play), a sleeping lynx, bison, a lone Arctic wolf, black boar, etc.

Björn/bears

Björn/bears

Went back to photograph a straw thatched-roof building and passed a church at the time of evening prayers at 18:00.

Thatched roof

Skansen farm

Checked out the restaurants looking for pea soup, but no success. Saw a poster for folk dancing at 19:00, but there was no one at the stage. Found a costumed person who directed us to a wooden stage where we got front row seats for a half-hour show of Swedish folk dancing. Slow and measured.

Swedish folk dancing

Went to leave Skansen, but got sidetracked by an herb garden, then a rose garden in full bloom. Made our way to the train station and did some grocery shopping in the underground shops near the Tunnelbana. Found two krona coins in a grate and Sue found a 5 øre coin on the sidewalk. Retrieved our bags and sat in the women’s waiting room, sometimes with a guard at the door, until 22:30 when we could board the 23:13 train to Helsingborg.

Stockholm to Copenhagen seat reservation

A Spanish family had taken over our compartment, but left when they saw we had reservations. Our feet got tired today!

It was fairly dark although there was still light on the horizon, as we are back to more normal sun times. A drunk came in and sat next to Sue, then got up and left again. After the first stop, the conductor went rushing by, and there was a loud argument with that same drunk, before he handed over some money.

I went to use the restroom, but there was no light in the one in our car leaving it pitch black. I opened the door of the lavatory of the next car and saw the back of a man. Whoops! I returned to my seat and Sue gave me her flashlight to try the one in our car, but it was being used. Waited, and when I went in to use the lavatory, whoever had used it had missed in the dark and it was wet everywhere. So I used the one in the next car. On my way back I saw that “ours” was in use again. Males only!