1980 Torino/Turin (8/18-23/1980)

Monday, August 18, 1980

Awoke by 09:00 and did some laundry. Went down to Pina's for breakfast of coffee in milk with biscuits by 10:00. Then we all went out shopping, stopping first at the post office at its new location. Went to a butcher for meat (most of the stores were closed for the holidays, but at least one of each necessity was open in the town). There Pina discovered she had forgotten to bring her money, but between Terry, Kathy and me with our emergency 10 lire bills, we had enough to pay for the meat. In town we had passed a crazy lady who talked to herself, but is very rich. She was supposedly kept housebound when young. She really got into reading newspapers, commenting aloud, as we noted in the butcher's shop. We met Nonna on the way home and she had done the rest of the shopping. Terry carried groceries to the house with Nonna, while Kathy and I went to another store with Pina. We got home and sat on the terrace, but then I had to run to the store again to get some cheese. Aldo came home, and we sat down for “lunch.” Terry had sweet wine, I had regular wine, and Kathy had milk. We had gnocchi, then steaks with peppers in oil. Then fruit followed by espresso. After lunch we were given use of the car, but decided to take the train to Torino. We were told there was a train at 14:00, so we ran to the station only to find it was cancelled due to the holidays. So we had our siesta at Gianni's apartment before catching the 15:00 train.

Train ticket to Torino

Got into Torino and walked through the deserted market area and through the old gate to the Cathedral of Turin/Duomo di Torino where the Holy Shroud of Turin is housed. Inside we saw a display on the shroud, and saw where it is actually kept in a gold case above a high altar. Also saw a life-size copy which a guard had to point out to us since it was very high on a back wall.

Postcard of the Duomo di Torino

Stamp with the Holy Shroud

We walked past the Royal Palace, around the Madama Palace, past the Opera House to the EgyptianMuseum, but it was closed! So we took a walk down to the Po River at the Piazza Vittorio Emanuele. After getting a few postcards, we went to see the Mole, the landmark steeple of Torino. It kind of rained on and off during our tour. We headed back to the station in time for the 17:19 train back to Nole. In Torino were the expected number of beeps and ciaos!

Train ticket to Nole

Went back to Pina's house and sat on the balcony waving to acquaintances usually bicycling by. When Aldo came home it was time for dinner. Had slices of tomato prepared with tuna fish mayonnaise on top, then boiled potatoes and a pot roast, with the pot roast you could have either mayonnaise, a thick tomato sauce, or a vegetable mixture which is rather indescribable. Looked like mashed spinach in oil. Then we had a thick vegetable soup followed by fruit. We also had salami and cheese to sample, and ended with a fruit cocktail. After the final milk and coffee, Teri and Clemente stopped by and the evening social began. Gianni's friend, Franco, came by, and then Aldo's friend, Bruno, the favorites of mine amongst their friends. After a long evening we went home to bed, but ended up talking most of the night after washing clothes. We hoped the thunder and lightning didn't mean rain to drown our drying clothes. One of the cheeses sampled that night was a soft "cheese of oil."

Tuesday, August 19, 1980

Awoke early and went to visit with Pina in the morning at about 09:30 to see if Gianni had arrived. He hadn't, so I waited for Kathy and Terry to come down. When they finally did, it was too late to borrow the car for a ride. I had telephoned them at Gianni’s apartment from Pina's house; and Kathy actually answered the phone! It was about 10:30, and we went out shopping with Pina. At one store the proprietress had a son who spoke English and he was called out to practice. But when he realized he had to talk to a girl, he ran off. He was “only” 17 years old. Came home to sit on the terrace and got invited by the next door neighbor, Rita, to come up for coffee later. When Aldo came home we had lunch including beef steaks and rice. Then we went up to visit Rita and her daughter Anna. Had liquored up chocolate candies and espresso. And looked at photographs that Rita shows just for laughs, especially including one of her in a hula skirt. Anna was invited for our ride in the afternoon. Aldo had taken the rest of the day off and drove us up into the mountains to Pian della Mussa. It was too cloudy to see the mountain tops. We hiked up to the nearby refuge, and had soft drinks because they had no ice cream. There was a group of deaf-mute people, and their leader asked about our origins and then said his group was nosy. They weren't the only ones! A lot of the younger people were making Chinese sounds. We climbed above the refuge to see the cow barns which were empty except for filth. Higher up in another barn, Kathy was startled by a horse. We attempted to hike even higher, but were not used to the altitude, so we sat and rested a while. We used  binoculars to scan the mountains around us, and Terry was surprised by the power of her pair, because she spotted a bee flying by some rocks. We couldn't see the highest peaks because they were covered by clouds. We returned to the car and drove down to a bar for ice cream. While Aldo was ordering, we were entertained by an old mountain man sitting at the table next to us. He was testing his bottle of beer by holding a plumb line above it. He later explained to us that if the beer was good the plumb would move in a circle. If it was only OK, it would swing forward and back, but if it swung from side to side, it was no good. He even demonstrated on his hand over a good finger versus a broken one. He then laid out a measuring tape next to his beer and slowly moved the plumb along it until it began to sway to indicate what quality or grade it was (12 this time). He tested Aldo’s genepy which turned out to be good. We all tasted the genepy, a kind of liqueur from the mountains. Plus we ate our ice creams. We got in the car and headed home, or so we thought. At Ceres Aldo climbed (or at least the car did) over to the next valley containing Groscavallo and we drove to its end. It was a beautiful wide valley with forested hills.

Valle di Groscavallo

At its end we took a walk towards a monastery where there are 430 stairs on which people do penance on their knees. We didn't go up the stairs, but Kathy had to go in the woods. We finally made the long drive back home and awaiting us was Gianni. He had arrived home on his motorcycle and had gone up to Pian della Mussa to find me. But we had gone on to Groscavallo! That evening we had a supper of some unusual deviled eggs, slices of meat, and boiled potatoes. Also soup, fruit, and walnuts. A few of Gianni's friends stopped by with their motorcycles including Franco. Also there was Eglio, Valentino, and another who shall have to be described as the Napoli. It was decided to go out for ice cream, so Gianni took the three of us in his car, while the others went by motorcycle. Somewhere along the way, the Napoli got his car, so we had a parade going in search of ice cream. We tried one small town after another, but all the bars were closed due to the holidays. Finally ended up in Torino at the Piazza Statuto at a large bar. After a while we decided to go home to bed.

Wednesday, August 20, 1980

Awoke fairly early and went down to Pina’s for breakfast. She was at the hairdressers, so we made our own hot milk with coffee. Then Pina arrived and we went to the open market. While I ran to the post office, the cleaning of fish was demonstrated to Terry and Kathy. We ended up carrying quite a load home with a watermelon and a large bag of potatoes. I called up Gianni to come down for lunch where we had polenta, first in fresh milk, then as a side dish with chicken. It tasted much better than the polenta I tried to make at home. After lunch we went to Aldo’s bar where he usually plays cards and he got us ice cream. Then Gianni drove us to Sacra di San Michele where we climbed up the stairs to enter, and then climbed up more stairs to see the basilica and the crypts, and to look down on the valley of Susa.

Steps up to Sacra di San Michele (TAT)

Kathy, Tamiko, Gianni at Sacra di San Michele

View of Valle di Susa

We drove down to a bar near one of the Avigliana lakes. Sat outside by the lake and waited forever for service at the outdoor tables. Saw some water skiers and some huge minnows. Finally we made our order, but Gianni made a mistake and ordered four orange sodas, and his beer. So first he had to drink the extra soda. Then he asked the waiter for four straws as if we were going to share the beer. The waiter gave us a lot of strange looks, as we sat the afternoon away doing strange things like making a very long straw and playing basketball into open shirts, etc. We drove to a motorcycle vendor where Gianni got an oil filter and an air filter. When we got home, he brought over his motorcycle and changed the filters. Kathy and Terry were invited by the neighbor to come over and pick plums. They also got to try out the moped, and with one on the moped and the other on Pina's bicycle, they went exploring around Nole. That evening we had dinner of the fish Terry and Kathy saw beheaded, and we had the watermelon. Eglio and Franco came by and we went off for a motorcycle ride. Terry went with the stable Franco, Kathy went with the trustworthy Gianni, and I ended up with the novice Eglio. A stop was made at a gas station where I was to give advice to Terry and Kathy on how to ride a motorcycle, when I wasn't sure how to ride one myself. Again it was a search for ice cream, and we ended up in the mountains where we met Diego and his wife, Silvania. Terry and Kathy had ice cream, and the "kids" threw gravel at each other. Then we drove down into Cirie for some drinks. Along the way Eglio had to switch to his auxiliary gas, and we got left behind a bit. Eglio took the chance to interview me about my future. At the Cirie bar, we three said we wanted "nothing." The waiter asked if we were sure we wanted "nothing" and I said "why, does it cost a lot?" The waiter then asked if we wanted "nothing" on the rocks or straight, and I played along with the "joke" saying on the rocks. Well, we got a mild liquor, and the waiter brought out the bottle to prove it was "nothing." Then we returned to Gianni’s place where Franco showed us card tricks. Finally to bed.

Thursday, August 21, 1980

Awoke fairly early to talk to Gianni, and we came to somewhat of an agreement. I had tried to call Switzerland the day before in the morning, but was getting no response. So I tried again, but the same thing. Went down to Pina’s for lunch, then Gianni took us for a ride up to Superga. We walked around the basilica with a superball, and almost lost it down the mountainside.

Superga

Gianni, Tamiko, Kathy at Superga (TAT)

We went inside the edifice and examined the dome ceiling and a chapel. Then we went to wait in line to see the Royal Tombs, but we appeared to be the tourist attraction of the day. So we left and drove up to Lanzo to see the Bridge of the Devil; watched a stream fisher for a while before returning home.

Gianni, Tamiko, Kathy on the Bridge of the Devil (TAT)

Bridge of the Devil (TAT)

Bridge of the Devil (TAT)

Sat and relaxed a bit looking through the family photographs. After dinner that evening, Franco and Eglio, and Eglio's wife came by. Also there was Fabio. We went off on the motorcycles again, this time Kathy with Franco, Terry with Gianni, and I was with Fabio, the scrubby bearded fellow who turned out to be a really nice guy, who also interviewed me about my future. We went to Torino to look for a pizza place, and had a night tour of the city passing the palaces and the ancient gate all well lighted, and several statues and the Mole, the railroad station, and the seedy section of town before finding a place not closed for the holidays. We all had pizzas, Kathy and Terry sharing one. We drove all over looking for a place to buy cigarettes, including the airport. Then home to bed, supposedly because we were to get up early to go visit a cave. But Gianni and I had a late night –

Friday, August 22, 1980

 -- then early morning discussion. I called Mommy at 04:00 or so, to ask her to contact Switzerland. Found out Terry and Kathy had to get home as soon as possible. So we decided not to go to the cave, and that we were to leave on Saturday, the 23rd. Went to bed and awoke at about 10:00. Made our own breakfast as planned, but later went to Pina’s to have a lunch of beef croquettes and buttery mashed potatoes. After lunch we were again put on display at Aldo’s bar where we had ice cream. Then Gianni took us for a ride up to Benot in one of the valleys above Lanzo. We forgot to bring our cameras, so of course it turned out to be a fantastically beautiful day. We saw the little houses made completely of stone (including the roof), and just super mountain scenery. We hiked up a little to meet some friends of Aldo who were camping. Went to the stream to take a drink and to splash each other. Then started back down and met a herd of goats. They began following us, and came to lick our hands and our jeans! And to tickle Kathy’s knees. They followed us quite a way. Terry collected rocks, and Kathy and Gianni played baseball with a big white round mushroom. We returned to Pina’s to be shown their rock collection. When Aldo came home, we took a walk to a nearby farm to get fresh milk. We were introduced to the family and their 22-year old daughter tried some English. Saw the cows and the bulls, then headed home. I found a 4-leaf clover in the fields.

4-leaf clover

We had a dinner including rolled up steak and homemade ice cream. That evening we watched a little television, including a goofy sounding Gofer, on the "Love Boat"! Then headed home to bed early, but at 23:00, some of Gianni’s friends stopped by: Eglio, Franco, and Fabio with his wife. They left before midnight, and we went to sleep.

Saturday, August 23, 1980

Awoke at 05:30 and had our breakfast of milk and cookies. Then by 06:30 we went down to Aldo’s. I drove the car over and Gianni took the motorcycle. We headed to Gran Paradiso National Park, I on the motorcycle with Gianni, and Terry and Kathy in the car with Aldo. We made a stop for gas and to fill up the tires. Then we made a stop for coffee and hot chocolate. Then we had to stop while Aldo drove back down a ways to find gas for the car. We finally reached Gran Paradiso. It was a bit cold, and we wore our workshirts and sweatjackets. We started our search for camosci/chamois and stambecchi/ibex. We had seen a stuffed stambeccho head on the way back from Benot the day before, along with other stuffed animals. We saw a camoscio head in the bar where we had our hot chocolate. We walked on and on, and it seemed we would never find anything, but then Gianni spotted a few camosci. We attempted to climb higher, but Kathy pooped out. So Gianni and I waited with Kathy, while Terry and Aldo climbed closer to take photographs. They got pretty close, within 30 feet or so to view about ten stambecchi. Gianni and I hiked a little higher to see a herd of at least 16 stambecchi. We also saw Terry and Aldo sitting and having a grand conversation just above this herd. We motioned them to come down, and all Terry did was to wave back. Finally they understood and the amazing scene was to see Aldo and Terry walking down to meet three stambecchi walking up. But the stambecchi became alert, and the whole herd turned and ran in the other direction. A couple big ones stayed behind and climbed up on a crop of rock to stand guard. Gianni climbed a bit closer, and they ran off, one making an amazing vertical jump down off the rocks.

Gran Paradiso National Park, Valle Orco

Climbing higher

Kathy, Tamiko, Aldo (TAT)

and higher! (Aldo and Terry scan for wildlife)

Some stambecchi/Alpine ibex (TAT)

More ibex (TAT)

and more! (TAT)

Gianni, Tamiko, Terry, Aldo

Kathy and Terry in the Alps

Kathy

Kathy and Terry

Terry

Terry and Aldo came back with snowballs. It was lunchtime, so we had the 'breakfast” that Pina had packed. Whole wheat bread and cheese and salami. And “rice” crackers and chocolate bars, and milk and mountain stream water. Then we headed back to the car. Drove down to a bar for coffee (tea for Kathy), and then home. Once home, Pina had our lunch/dinner ready which included rabbit. Pina gave us supplies to take with us, and we said our sad goodbyes. Gianni drove us to the station by 19:00 and we found we had a long wait for the 23:00 train to Paris. Sat in the waiting room and saw four policemen get edgy about a couple backpacks left for a few minutes by a couple of French kids. Went to board our train an hour early, but found the one car besides cuchettes going to Paris was filled to standing room only already. So we got ourselves our own compartment in a car going to Modane (one of about five which were basically empty). We had bought sandwiches with our leftover Italian change for our dinner along with the Coke, a candy bar, and corn chips provided by the Piccos and Teri. Slept until Modane, where we moved to join the SRO folks, but in the first class section which had carpeted walls. Slept on the floor of the corridor until Paris.
Next: Luxembourg.