1980 Pompei and Mt. Vesuvio/Vesuvius (8/7/1980)

Thursday, August 7, 1980

Awoke at 07:00 and had an early breakfast, this time without the fruit juice. Checked out of the hotel, but left our bags at the reception desk. We went to the train station stopping first at the post office. After going to the wrong ticket window, we found where to get tickets for the Circumvesuviana Railroad (CVRR). We boarded the first train headed in the direction of Ercolano. It turned out that our train was a semi-express, so we had to get off two stations past Ercolano. Got information as to the next train back to Ercolano, and because we had some time we went to a grocery store to buy provisions for our lunch. Got off at Ercolano about 09:30 to find the next bus to Mt. Vesuvio wasn't until 13:00! So we decided to visit Pompei first and used the CVRR.

CVRR ticket for Pompei

Got off right at the Pompei excavations, and more or less entered through the rear gate. We signed in with our free passes and began exploring.

Pompei ticket

The ruins are quite extensive, long streets with the walls of homes, baths, etc. We could go in a few of the homes to see painting on the walls, parts of fountains, "still" flowering courtyards, and statues.

Pompei courtyard

Went into one of the baths and saw displays of two people found in strange positions. Saw squares and markets, and ongoing excavations, but not much else. There was a restaurant and gift shop, but you couldn't buy just a map without a big expensive guidebook. We looked at postcards to see where all the "good stuff" was supposed to be, apparently in the "Antiquarium." Took a walk up one street to climb a tower to look down on the city of Pompei (ruins and the present city).

Pompei street

Pompei ruins (TAT)

Postcard of Pompei with Mount Vesuvius

But it was too misty to see Mt. Vesuvio. We then just started walking in any old direction. We had to be careful where we stepped because of the numerous salamanders slithering about. Somehow we ran into the Antiquarium, but it was closed. We managed to find the main entrance. We left and looked for the CVRR station, passing vendors offering refreshments at "student" prices. The station happened to be that of Villa di Misteri, and we boarded the train to Ercolano. Arrived at about 12:00, so bought further provisions for a lunch of Italian chocolate kisses (with nuts inside), spread cheese on bread, and milk. We then joined the crowd waiting for the 13:00 bus. It was sardines, again, but even so the conductor pushed through to sell tickets.

Bus ticket

Wound up and up to the base of Monte Vesuvio, past lava rocks and streams, and musty yellow flowers/weeds. At the base we then had to line up to get a number for buying the tickets to the chairlift. Ten minutes later we lined up with our numbers to buy the tickets. (We were supposed to buy souvenirs during that time!) Then we lined up to get on the chairlift to the rim of the crater.

Chairlift ticket

It was the quiet serene ride of a ski lift but without the snow. You couldn't see much further below the base of the mountain because of the haze. At the top, we waited in another line until enough people arrived to form a group of sorts. We walked up to the guide station where we were divided into languages and taken on the "tour." We were given a short spiel on the mountain, and learned it was not this volcano which destroyed Pompei, but it was born much later. It last erupted in 1944 and is still active. We went down into one edge of the rim, where another guide took Kathy by the hand to have her feel the steam coming up. Then he took another woman who was reluctant at first, to sit down and feel the effects of condensation by the heat of his cigarette. The woman’s husband eagerly took movies. Then Kathy was grabbed again for the same demonstration so that I could get a photo. She got her glasses steamed.

That's Kathy in the steam!

Kathy at the rim of the volcano (TAT)

Another guide followed by Terry and Kathy

We then walked back collecting tiny pieces of lava, and rode the chairlift back down the mountain.

Chairlift and lava rock (TAT)

We sat in the welcome shade until our bus returned at 16:00. Again it was sardines time, but we finally made it to the train station in Ercolano.

CVRR ticket for Napoli

Took the CVRR back to Napoli, and found a train leaving for the Adriatic coast. Kathy saved our seats on the train as Terry and I went back to the hotel to retrieve our bags. The train finally left at about 18:00, and I was surprised at how long it took to get to Bari. I had miscalculated somewhere! We only had appetite for some cookies and water for dinner. The conductor stuck his nose in Kathy's face to see if she was really asleep. We arrived at perhaps 22:30 or later, and then waited for a train heading up the coast which was late and didn't leave until about 24:00. The train was crowded, but we found a compartment with only three people to 8 seats, so we barged in.

Next: San Marino.