1980 Isola di Capri/Isle of Capri (8/6/1980)

Wednesday, August 6, 1980

Awoke at 07:00 and were buzzed by the desk as a wake-up call at 07:30. Went down for the included breakfast which was really something: fruit juice (pear) and rolls, tea and melba toast with butter and jam which was served by an auburn-haired teenager. Then as scheduled we went down to the reception desk where I paid the extravagant fee for the Capri tour, then waited at the door for the bus. We paid about $25 each, but we figured it was the most convenient way to go.

Capri ticket

The tiny bus that picked us up was already crowded and we had to stand. The bus made several more stops at other hotels. Two girls squished together to let Terry sit on the edge of their seat. Finally arrived at the port, and we were given boat tickets and little stickers to put on our shoulders proclaiming us as part of the OTI-Tourcar group. We boarded the “Santa Maria" ferry for the 1-1/2 hour trip into the mist to the island of Capri. As we watched the extremely polluted dark green water become a clear midnight blue color, the silhouette of Capri, loomed through the mist. It was a noisy ride, with engines and rushing air and splashing water. We couldn't really hear the guitarist, harmonicist, nor the mini-clarinetist jamming on the decks. A comic strip character Italian American from Chicago (Jim) came to interrogate us and give us traveling advice. At the port our group was told that because of the crowds we would go to the Blue Grotto in the afternoon, so for now please follow the guide. He took us to a bus stop, than gave us 15 minutes free time. We bought some peaches and a postcard. We were divided into languages and put onto tiny buses, where they had to fold down seats in the aisles so that every square inch held a passenger. The bus took us winding up the mountain from Marina Grande to the town of' Anacapri. Got breathtaking views of the harbor.

View of harbor from Anacapri

We were let off at the Hotel Paradise where lunch was awaiting. We were served first our drinks for which we had to pay extra. We got three Cokes and a bottle of mineral water, each for $1.25, and the Cokes were minute. Some of the waiters were just kids; one grated Parmesan cheese over your pasta. We had hollow noodles (cannelloni?) in tomato sauce as the first course, then salad and roast beef slices (I had fish.). Ended with ice cream, one tiny melting scoop. The lady at the table next to us was getting to know everybody, us included. She was into art and astrology, and gave Terry her business card to look her up in case she is ever in California. Then we were hurried out and led on a walk through the town; saw many gorgeous flowers. Stopped by a cemetery to hear a spiel about Capri, and hear a defense that the Napoli are honest and if you found your wallet missing, a tourist probably took it whereas a Napoli would have returned it. The next sentence was that in Capri you could get true coral, wood and silks, where in Napoli they would sell you plastic fakes. We were taken to a large modern souvenir store and let free for a half hour. We also went to nearby souvenir shops, Kathy went to a restroom, and we hiked over to the Villa St. Michele. There we got a spectacular view of the port and the beaches where you could look straight down to the bottom of the water.

View into the sea (TAT)

We were also startled by a salamander running across our feet. We hurried back in time to join the group to crowd into the little buses, this one with a canvas top, and I sat backwards next to the driver. Wound back down to the port, where we were taken to board the tiny little boats to the Blue Grotto.

Boat ticket

Boats to the Blue Grotto (TAT)

About thirty people were crowded into one boat, and we motored around at least a quarter of the island. The pilot used his foot to steer, and you could look through the water to see the rocks he was missing! We passed between two tall rocks with only inches to spare. Finally arrived at the entrance of the grotto to see the confusion of boats. Apparently you had to get into little rowboats of 4-7 persons each in order to fit through the small opening to the grotto.

Boats entering the Blue Grotto

Postcard of the Blue Grotto entrance

We had a long wait, but finally got in. The effect of the sunlight from the opening reflecting through the water was amazing. The water was illuminated in the most wondrous blue.

Yes, that was the blue of the grottoQ

We circled around in the grotto twice (it is 60 meters long and 20 meters deep as intoned by the boatman about 10 times in Italian), then scooted out the small opening where we had to really duck to the bottom of the boat. We climbed back into the larger boat and chugged back to the harbor, picking up a smaller boat to tow along the way. We passed some topless sun bathers on rafts, and the pilot tooted his horn in indignation. At the harbor, we were told we had an hour to go to the beach. Since Kathy felt a little (sea)sick, we just sat in the shade and drank a ginger-ale tasting gassosa (a soda that usually tastes like a mild 7-up). At 16:30 we boarded the "Santa Maria," and at 17:00 it left for Napoli.

Leaving the Isle of Capri

Our guide chatted with Terry and Kathy, and gave them a brochure. He had had his hair cut during the previous hour! In Napoli we boarded the little bus and were taken close to our hotel. Terry banged her head on the luggage rack, but otherwise nothing exciting happened. After washing up a bit in the hotel, we went out for real Napolitano pizza. Terry had it with anchovies, Kathy had the complete style (with anchovies, capers and black olives as well as cheese and tomato sauce!), and I had the four seasons. That pizza was divided into four sections by rows of crust, and one corner had tomato sauce and cheese only. Another section had Kathy’s ingredients. One section had shrimp, and the final section had prosciutto and mushrooms. It was a slightly salty crust, and one of the best pizzas I ever had in Italy. The waiter thought I spoke Italian very well. We then returned to the hotel and showered. The hotel proprietor was always telling us to be very careful, and to hold on to our purses (we weren't carrying any purses). He only spoke Italian. We tried to cornrow Kathy’s hair without much success.
Next: Pompei and Mt. Vesuvio/Vesuvius.