Lake District (4/28/1979)

Saturday, April 28, 1979
Left by 8:30 taking the scenic route to the Lake District. All the small towns and many fields around the Grosso area have little shrines.

Roadside shrine

Got headed in the wrong direction at times. There was a ridiculously elbowing road towards Biella. Soon arrived at Arona on Lago Maggiore, but could not really see the lake. Campsites had control of the shore. Drove around the bottom of the lake and up right along the eastern shore. A peaceful lake with sail boats. Could not find the castle in Angera, but arrived there after getting lost in Ranco.

View of Lago Maggiore from Castello di Angera

Castello di Angera

Drove up along the shore, stopping at a beach, and then a park for photos.

Lago Maggiore at Ispra

Lago Maggiore at Cerro

At Lavena there was a ferry landing:

From there drove to Lago Varese and followed its shore looking for Sacro Monte. Didn't find it, so in the city of Varese tried to find my way to Lago Como.

Lago Varese at Gavirate

Got lost and headed down the wrong way on a one-way street. Was trying to put the car in reverse to turn around, in front of a bar with a group of "helpful" fellows. Ended up finding my way to Sacro Monte!

Lago Varese from Sacro Monte

A tiny town on a mountaintop known for its cathedral. Walked around a bit, but it started sprinkling rain. Saw a bolt of lightning go down into the valley. Needed gas and found only a self-serve open. Finally found my way to Como. The area around here is mostly woodsy hills. Lago Como was an impressive, beautiful lake, surrounded by tall mountains and having picturesque villages with red-tiled roofs on its shores.

Como on Lago Como

Drove as much as I could right on the shoreline. It reminded me of the Hudson River near Storm King.

Lago Como at Aregno

Stopped at a ferry landing in Menaggio, but the ferry did not leave for an hour.

From the ferry landing in Menaggio

So drove around the top of the lake. Down at Varenna, arrived just in time to catch the ferry. The car stalled so I was pushed aboard!

Gran Bretagne Hotel in Bellagio

Arrived at Bellagio and continued along the lake to Como, which was beautifully lighted at dusk. Along the shores were wealthy-looking villas with exotic gardens, including palm trees!

Lago Como at Nesso

In Como, looked for a gas station. Only a self-serve and had to get change at a bar. Took a more direct route home in the dark, apparently through rice paddy land (since the ground around me seemed to glisten in the dark!).

Around Lake Como and along the Riviera, I passed through many tunnels that dripped water. A funny sensation when you expect it to be dry in a tunnel if it's raining outside. Here the opposite effect.

My grandmother spent winters in Lake Como, Florida at her sister's (Aunt Sophie's) manufactured trailer home.

Around Torino (4/23-27/1979)

Monday, April 23, 1979
It now seems the red Fiat 127 is mine to use. Drove to Debora's for therapy. In the median strip of her street, vendors set up tents to sell everything; food, clothing, kitchen goods, flowers, etc. Went to a phone booth to find the American Consul address, then drove there, past a whole square full of tents in front of huge buildings more or less labeled "supermarkets." At the Consul, got registered and got visa information (i.e., I don't need any).

Tuesday, April 24, 1979
I wanted to send a telegram. The PT/Post-Telephone near Debora said it was cheaper after 8:00 PM. Went to the Grosso PT which wasn't open at that time, and then to Cirie where I couldn't even find the PT.

Wednesday, April 25, 1979
A holiday - Liberation Day. Drove to Claudio's apartment just outside Torino. First had a simple but very good meal with Claudio, his aunt and grandparents. After some therapy, friends came by and I watched them play a game. Then I drove into Torino a few blocks to Debora's for therapy.

Friday, April 27, 1979
Today on my way to Debora's, was stopped by the Vigili Urbani/local police in Borgaro. Apparently it was just a routine check, but there was a bit of discussion over the International Driving Permit. But soon a "buon giorno" and I was on my way.

Valle d'Aosta (4/21-22/1979)

Saturday, April 21, 1979
Planned a full two-day trip, but the promised car was not available. After lunch I got the red A127. I wanted to explore Valle d'Aosta, where a lot of wine and cheese is made. Again I took the scenic route, making my way first to Ivrea, and then started up the valley taking pictures of all the castles marked on my Piemonte map. Then made my way to Monte Cervino, better known to us as the Matterhorn. First glimpse got a "Mama mia!" out of me!

Monte Cervino

Distinctive and impressive. Stopped in the city of Cervinia-Breuil to get as close as I could. Skiing didn't look too challenging. Saw an aerial cable car from afar.

Funivia/Aerial cable car near Monte Cervino

Had to use a WC, which was a ceramic hole in the floor. Heard lots of French spoken, even though Switzerland was just on the other side of the Matterhorn. Drove back into the valley, beautiful because warm spring below, yet snow-covered mountains all around.

View of Valle d'Aosta from Chambave

Stopped in Fenis to see a nicely kept-up castle:

Castello di San Pierre

Drove through the busy city of Aosta, and made my way straight to Monte Bianco/Mont Blanc. First view also impressive, but at dusk with a cloud veil. Got headed into the tunnel at Monte Bianco, but u-turned to the town of La Palud where the Monte Bianco Funivie/cableways was located. Planned to stay in a pensione, the first was full and the second said I must also take meals. Went to other hotels where it seems meals were also included. So I returned to the Pensione di Dente del Gigante/Tooth of the Giant. First ate dinner and was seated at a table with a curious young couple. Managed a conversation with them. The waiter asked if he could come to my room! Found out pensione means boarding house. Price was 15,000 lire ($18.75), reasonable since it included meals.

Sunday, April 22, 1979
Awoke early to buy a ticket for the first funivia/cable car, but there was already a long line of skiers! People were buying 40 or 100 tickets for their groups.

View of Aiguille Noire and Monte Bianco

Funivia

I bought a ticket to the last point in Italy, or so I thought, Punta Hellbronner. Also given a number of which car to take. I had time for breakfast.

View at the base of Dente del Gigante

Somehow I didn't understand properly which car to take, but was allowed on. Took three funivie up to Punta Hellbronner where I was greeted by customs officials. Passport was okayed and I was in France! And I thought the chairlift at Bardonecchia was breathtaking! Super up here! Above the clouds with birds flying below.

Dente del Gigante/Tooth of the Giant

Italian Alpine panorama

View down into French side

The sight here is apparently a glacier, but now masked by snow and clouds. Barely got sight of Monte Bianco through the clouds:

Aha!

View of Val Veny and Courmayeur

Monument with a quote about if everyone wanted to lend a hand?

Monte Bianco from the midstation

Friendly customs fellow told me to take the funivia into France, but too expensive. So went down to "common" ground and made my way to Valle d'Aosta for a photo.

"First" view of Monte Bianco

City of Aosta

Then to Monte Paradiso, going up through a grand scale Watkins Glen complete with waterfall.

Val Savaranche

Waterfall

Gran Paradiso National Park

Perhaps Piccolo and Gran Paradiso peaks

Snow at roadside was getting to be higher than the car. Signs warned of avalanches. The road was closed at Pont due to snow. But there were people sunbathing in the hot sun. Turned around and headed for "home."

Week in Bardonecchia (4/11-17/1979)

Wednesday, April 11, 1979
In the morning I drove Patri to her house in Mathi to pick up a few things for the week in Bardonecchia. We took the Fiat 126 (652cc engine) of the karate instructor/driver/guard, Angelo. You turned the ignition on with the key and started the engine with a lever on the floor. We also bought gas for him.

That afternoon, the family from Roma arrived: mother Marlene, who is American, and two kids, Luca and Victoria, both bilingual. We left for Bardonecchia in two cars after a stop in Nole. Signora B took the Range Rover with the three B and two "Roman" kids, Patri, and cousin Gianni. Marlene drove the Alfetta with me, Zia/Aunt Carla, cousin Maria Teresa, and a grandmother. We drove via the Autostrada. Zia/Aunt Carla and Maria Teresa were dropped off at their apartment, then grandmother at hers with Gianni, Albi, and Artu. The rest at the B's apartment.

Thursday, April 12, 1979
Everyone went up the mountain where Luca expected to ski, but his bindings weren't adjusted. I didn't expect to ski every day, so went up to keep Patrizia company. Just sat in the sun with Marlene and her kids. Didn't get home until late for therapy.

Friday, April 13, 1979
I decided to stay at the apartment to take a shower and write letters. At noon, the father of the Roman family arrived but he went to join the family on the mountain. Apparently Gian Luca V was in a movie filmed in Roma, but he says he spoke English. The family spends summers in Great Neck, Long Island. Found out my bindings were not properly adjusted, so I will not ski this weekend. Since the fathers arrived that day, I was sent to Zia Carla's to sleep there.

Saturday, April 14, 1979
Woke up to find Zia Carla had guests - a couple with three kids, but we had a comfortable breakfast. Spent the day at the B apartment where I helped Patrizia clean. We went out twice for ice cream. That evening I took Gianni home and had a pleasant little visit with grandmother and the other Zia Carla. Saw kids open up huge chocolate eggs with a small surprise (toy car, small doll) inside. Then went to "my" Zia Carla's, and was invited to the discotheque with Maria Teresa. A bigger place, part of a hotel, with many light displays including a strobe light and mirrored globe. Danced a little with Maria Teresa. One guy asked me twice to slow dance, but I definitely did not like the looks of him!

Easter Sunday, April 15, 1979
Went to morning Mass at a tiny church that was crowded. Afterwards was invited to lunch with Zia Carla, etc., but first went shopping with them. Ate a pleasant meal with all. Had rabbit! Later took a walk while they napped. Watched the Navetta (a train that ferries/shuttles cars to France) loading. Then went to the movies to see "Superman." Bought a second-class ticket which meant I sat in the forward rows. Had to crane my neck up to see the screen. Theater full of noisy kids shushing each other. Didn't totally understand the dubbed Italian, but understood the movie.

Movie ticket

Afterwards met the families and was invited to dinner. Here it was just like home with nine people around the table, and I was included in the conversation. Played a marble game with them before bed.

Monday, April 16, 1979
Since Elena had therapy Saturday, this was my day off with nothing to do, because no skis, no money, and no camera. First went to the B's apartment to borrow a book in English from Marlene, "Salem's Lot." Took a walk, watched the Navetta, and bought some crackers. Found a seat in a park and read the book while taking in some sun. Heard lots of French spoken that day. When it rained a little, I took refuge in a church.

Tuesday, April 17, 1979
I mailed letters myself for the first time! 970 lire ($1.20) per letter! Gave Elena therapy and after lunch we kids went out for ice cream at the railroad station. Then headed home to Torino.

Wednesday, April 18, 1979
Walked to Grosso with Luca. First went to the post office to mail a letter, much less expensive at 470 lire (59 cents). Then bought Luca ice cream and paid for a pinball game. A gypsy boy asked for money. On the way home Luca threw stones at hens, pulled out roadside markers, broke glass bottles, etc. I was rescued by driver Angelo, and Elena, who stopped to pick us up.

I have new neighbors: two goats and a pig. Also egg-laying hens.

Angelo, the driver who is also a karate instructor, and the only hired help who can speak any English, seems to be the assigned driver for the children.

Milano (4/7-8/1979)

Saturday, April 7, 1979
Fantastic! A car finally became available after 13:00 when the kids came home from school. Fortunately I could take Signora B's 127, since the A112 rattles at 80 kmh. I wanted to take the scenic route to Milano, so first I drove to Torino to buy a map, then I could find my way via small towns and not get headed onto the Autostrada. Didn't exactly go the route I wanted, but good enough! Lovely hilly vineyard country. Saw a couple sheep herders. Followed a trolleybus line to Chieri. Saw small villages in the hills and  monastery-looking communities.

Hills near San Pietro

View of the village of San Pietro

View of a hilltop walled-in community

Also saw their walled-in cemeteries, which are mostly tombs and open-air mausoleums. Made a wrong turn in Casale, but soon righted myself. Here I stopped for gas and now know to say "pieno" for "fill it up!" Expensive (~10,000 lire or $12.50 for a small tank-full). The land around Milano is flat. Saw flooded fields (rice paddies) and regularly planted forests. The young trees were too tall and skinny to be an orchard!

Milano was a huge city with obvious suburbs. Went first to the airport which was bigger and more modern, it seemed, than the one where I arrived!

I paid 100 lire to go out on the observation deck.

Just in driving into central Milano, I decided I loved it! Since it was getting dark, stopped to look for a hotel. In the area were only a few, so I went to one that took my credit card! It cost over 40,000 lire ($50), but I figure it was worth it. Had lots of chairs, a double bed and a complete bath. And a little refrigerator with snacks, alcoholic beverages and soft drinks (for which you paid extra). Had a phone but no TV.

Hotel info front side
You can tell the hotel is too snazzy for me, with the ad for furs!

Hotel info back side with map

Went out for a night walk and saw beautiful sights. La Galleria Vittorio Emanulele II and il Duomo were lighted up, and I saw elegantly-uniformed doormen at il Teatro alla Scala. The Galleria was a roofed-over street of shops and restaurants with a mosaic-tile floor, high arched ceilings, and a dome at the intersection of two "streets."

La Galleria Vittorio Emanulele II

La Galleria Vittorio Emanulele II (GJT)

La Galleria Vittorio Emanulele II S façade (GJT)

There seemed to be subway entrances, but I decided not to explore them at night.

Milano Centrale Stazione FS at night (GJT)

Stopped at the largest candy store I've ever seen and bought "dairy fudge" which turned out to be caramels. After a good shower, had a good night's sleep.

Palm Sunday, April 8, 1979
I went to the earliest Mass at the closest church. The priest spoke super-fast and Mass was only a half hour long.

Mass liturgy, pages 1 and 4

Mass liturgy, pages 2 and 3

An ornate church, and people said confession or came in to light candles during Mass. They gave out these strange branches (olive branches?) instead of palms. One lady asked for more but apparently there was a shortage. So I gave her most of mine. Later saw typical palms being sold throughout the city. Went to check out of the hotel, and then started my tour of Milano.

Teatro alla Scala

Again walked to the Duomo where something special was going on. There were hundreds of runners (a marathon?), girls in costume, and a parade.

Il Duomo/Cathedral

Il Duomo/Cathedral (GJT)

Piazza del Duomo

Also souvenir vendors, people selling corn for feeding the pigeons, and hundreds of pigeons to feed. One man wanted me to join a couple of Japanese fellows for a picture with the pigeons. Went into the subway where the guard in the booth told me to buy the ticket at the newspaper stand. Again met the Japanese fellows, but we had to communicate in English! Took the subway to the railroad station which was grandissimo!

Milano Centrale Stazione FS/Train station

Took the subway to Castello Sforzesco to explore a little.

Castello Sfozesco

Castello Sfozesco (GJT)

Lots of magnolia trees in blossom.

Piazza Cairoli with a statue (1896) of Giuseppe Garibaldi

Parco Sempione with the Arco della Pace/Arch of Peace

Took the subway (using the same ticket over and over!) to a stop in the middle of nowhere special. Then to an area supposedly full of churches according to the tiny map given by the hotel. Found and photographed many. Saw a Chase-Manhattan Bank; Milano is supposedly the economic center of Italy. The only fellow to bother me was a guy asking for money. Made my way to the Duomo where now there were flower merchants and a fellow sweeping up the mess from the festivities that morning. Found a garden for "kids only." Finally got back to the car and headed for Torino via a slightly different route.

Rice fields (GJT)

Since it was still early and sunny, I drove around Torino to take photographs. Even in walking only short distances, fellows came up to say "ciao!" Milano was a more comfortable city because I was one of many obvious tourists.