Up at 8:00 and off for the day, following Interstate 25
south. We could see mountains through the clouds to the west. They came nearer
and clearer to us as we entered Colorado. We turned west on US 34, passing
through the Valentine city of Loveland, CO.
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| Colorado prairie |
We headed up Big Thompson River Canyon, which really reminded me of Switzerland; a tumbling stream in a rocky gorge with trees and growth in the valley. The big difference was the style of the residences, the odd bright green cabins, and the souvenir shops.
We came out into a flat depression, a round valley called Estes Park, once inhabited by Mr. Estes, who moved out when the valley became over-crowded with three families! Now it is a tourist town.
We continued on US 34, climbing up a river canyon until we entered
Rocky Mountain National Park at the Fall River entrance, paying $2.
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| Rocky Mountain National Park receipt |
The Fall River Road was closed to traffic, so we continued to Deer Ridge Junction to turn west n Trail Ridge Road, which climbed and climbed on switchbacks right into the heart of the park. At Rainbow Curve we stopped to look down into what we had climbed to reach the tree line.
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| Rocky Mountain National Park view from Rainbow Curve |
There were many
Callospermophilus lateralis/Golden-mantled Ground Squirrels and
Tamias minimus/Least Chipmunks being fed by tourists, despite prominent signs explaining why you should not feed the wildlife. We think we saw the
Neotamias quadrivittatus/Colorado Chipmunk as well. We also saw many of the distinctive gray
Nucifraga columbiana/Clark’s Nutcracker birds.
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| Nucifraga columbiana/Clark’s Nutcracker birds |
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| Nucifraga columbiana/Clark’s Nutcracker birds |
We continued up and up to stop at the crowded Forest Canyon Overlook.
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| Rocky Mountain National Park |
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| Forest Canyon Overlook |
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| Rocky Mountain National Park |
This park was by far the most crowded park we have been to. Here we could look down into a deep valley and across at some of the tallest peaks in the area. Plus to the southeast was Long’s Peak, the tallest in the park at 14,255 feet.
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| Long's Peak |
This overlook was at the alpine tundra altitude and signs warned you to stay off the plant life, since it took years and years for it to grow. There were areas of restoration under plastic netting. All around us were short, but plentiful and colorful, flowers, and rocks covered with lichen.
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| Alpine tundra |
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| Alpine tundra |
We continued to climb and passed over the highest elevation point of the road at 12,183 feet. After that we began to descend. Stopped at the Alpine Visitors Center when it began to rain, Used the restrooms that had a really rancid smell. Then we saw signs saying these toilets were unique and conservation-minded, using recycled oil instead of water.
The visitors center explained about the tundra, and the plants and animals. The rain let us as we explored the gift shop. We decided to hike up a nearby hill, as Kathy took photos of the tundra plants, which helped slow me down. As we neared the top, I hurried ahead at my “normal” speed, and ended up really out of breath! The trail continued, but we were satisfied of reaching the topmost point at 12,005 feet.
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| 12,005 feet above sea level |
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| Alpine tundra |
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| Cynomys ludovicianus/Black tailed Prairie Dog |
We returned to the car and continued winding downhill, keeping an eye out for those elusive bighorn sheep. Soon we were back down in the forests and drove along at a relatively level rate until we exited the park, without seeing any more wildlife.
US 34 took us alongside Shadow Mountain Lake and Granby Lake, before we turned south on US 40. I took over driving as it began to rain on and off. We climbed up and over mountains before reaching the major highway of Interstate 70. We followed that to Idaho Springs, CO, where we turned north on CO 119 which followed a narrow canyon similar to Big Thompson. However, there were fewer residences and more evidence of mines. Down below I saw some people panning in a stream. We did a lot of winding and climbing over mountains before the final sprint down into Boulder, CO. Boulder was situated in a flat area, but backed by a sheer wall of a mountain ridge. We drove in search of “The Cafeteria” as recommended by Kathy’s father because of its proximity to a prairie dog town in the middle of the city. First we drove past the University of Boulder, a really nice modern campus. It felt like we were leaving town, so we turned around and discovered a pedestrian shopping area. We parked and walked through the neat downtown with its shop and boutiques, and university students. We went into a tiny mall and asked in a bookstore about a restroom. After using them, we returned to ask about this cafeteria. We had checked a phone book and found the only cafeteria was called Furr’s, and we had its address. But the front half of the phonebook was torn out, so we couldn’t look at the city map. The bookstore lady gladly gave us directions. After checking out a few craft shops, we returned to the car to drive to Furr’s Cafeteria. We found it and saw a messy looking field behind it. Because of all the garbage, we found it hard to believe this was the prairie dog town. A man was walking his Afghan dogs across it. We went for a closer look, and did find mounds with a couple freshly dug holes, but no other sign of life. We waited patiently and then Kathy spotted a prairie dog peeking out of a hole, but it immediately disappeared. The friendly climb-up-your-leg prairie dogs that Kathy’s dad had experienced were gone! We tried sprinkling around bits of granola bar, but couldn’t entice anyone to come out.
Decided to go ahead and eat at Furr’s, which had a long line, but it moved quickly. I had fried chicken with potatoes and corn, and milk, and Kathy got slippery buttery spaghetti with sauce and meatballs, a salad, bread, and milk. We managed to totally stuff ourselves, then paid as we left.
We then went on a prairie dog hunt, and found some standing outside their holes. They were alert as we approached, beating their tails furiously. Kathy threw some peanuts and got the interest of one of them. I took several photos. We couldn’t interest any of the others, and our friend soon tired of the peanuts, and they all disappeared. These were definitely the Cynomys ludovicianus/Black-tailed Prairie Dogs. As we drove out, we saw more mounds in an empty lot across the street.
We drove out of Boulder on US 36 heading southeast for Denver. The AAA guidebook sent us down US 287 to the Valley Motel. We had to be buzzed in the door to see the manager who was Japanese and asked if I was. The room was only about $28. We settled in and then got in the car to get a newspaper. We had seen a newspaper sign pointing to a yellow square, which might have been a yellow store across the street. But then I saw a bright yellow vending machine practically in front of the motel. We pulled around to buy a paper, and hoped no one saw us drive out to get the newspaper!
When Kathy asked the manager about an ice machine, there was none, but the manager got some out of her refrigerator for us.
We were writing in our journals when the air conditioner quit. It was hot so we opened the door, since it was cool outside. We closed it after a while, only to have to open it again. Later Kathy loudly complained, and lo and behold, the air conditioning started up again!
Monday, August 23, 1982
At about 6:30 I heard dripping that got louder and faster. It seems Kathy thought I was in the bathroom ripping up the bathmat. But when I jumped up exclaiming, “What’s happening?” she knew I wasn’t even in the bathroom! We ran in there to find water pouring out of the light fixture and it was leaking over the door and the toilet. We got dressed and Kathy ran to wake the manager. Later, she came to the door to explain the upstairs bathroom had a clogged drain causing the flood. Hmm…
We left almost right away at 7:00 and found ourselves in Denver rush hour traffic, taking I 70 to I 25 south. To our right were the Rocky Mountains and they were getting closer. Up ahead a rock formation jutted up into the air, called Castle Rock. Here, and especially in Utah, towns had their initial(s) painted onto the hill behind their municipality. Castle Rock had a neon star on it.
We continued south and behind a low ridge of hills, but in front of a higher ridge of mountains, we glimpsed the U.S. Air Force Academy. We drove into Colorado Springs and turned west on US 24 to Manitou Springs, and were on a road without any gas stations. We exited the highway in Cascade and found ourselves in a small community. But just before reaching the Pikes Peak Highway, we found a last chance gas station. As we filled up, a man came to ask from where in New York we were from. He was from Cattaraugus County (see, we even know how to spell that!).
We passed Santa’s Workshop to reach the toll booth for Pikes Peak Highway. We were very surprised to learn the toll was $4 per
person!
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| Pikes Peak toll receipt |
We paid up and started up the narrow curving climbing asphalt road. Around one curve we got our first look at Pikes Peak. The cloud cover was below us and we had passed through a few wisps. The road was then covered with gravel, and later became a dirt road, as we climbed to 9,000, then 10,000 feet in altitude. We passed a dammed reservoir holding water for all the towns below. We followed the top of the front range with its few evergreens and quaking aspens. Cars ahead of us were crawling. There were water tanks for car radiators along the way. The pamphlet warned of driving and overheating, and also of over-braking on steep grades.
We passed a ski area and switchbacked farther upward. At Glen Cove we stopped at a gift shop/coffee shop to use restrooms. The car was behaving well.
More and more switchbacks, and you could look back on the switchbacks below. We passed the alpine tundra to just bare rock. After that it was relatively easy curves to the top of Pikes Peak. We were at an altitude of 14,110 feet on bare rock. The cog railway tracks also come to the very top, but only a work train was there at this time.
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| Pikes Peak work train |
The tourist trains only run twice a day.
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| Kathy at the summit sign |
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| View from Pikes Peak |
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| View from Pikes Peak |
There wasn’t much view as we looked down on clouds, although to the west we saw a hazy valley. There was a brand new memorial dedicated to Olympic athletes, built in 1982. They hadn’t put the eternal flame in the bowl yet.
We headed back down Pikes Peak Highway, keeping a sharp lookout for bighorn sheep, as this was our last chance. As we passed a huge pile of rocks, I spotted one.
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| Ovis canadensis/Bighorn Sheep |
His horns weren’t very big, but we didn’t care. Further inspection of the pile of rocks revealed several others that were mostly heads poking over the rocks. One guy who was lying down seemed to have a red collar. Another bighorn over to one side was standing in silhouette against the sky; photo op!
Later we stopped to look down into the “Bottomless Pit.”
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| Bottomless Pit view |
Kathy spotted a fat marmot. I began getting a terrific headache, but it went
away as we descended. We wound down the dirt road that is the site of the Hill
Climb Race every year.
After leaving Pikes Peak, we returned to US 25 and headed to
Pueblo. Kathy had heard Pueblo was a beautiful city, but it appeared to be very
industrial. Continued south along the mountains through typical brush land.
Even parts of Colorado are flat and “lifeless”!
Next: New Mexico.
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