1980 København/Copenhagen (7/4/1980)

Friday, July 4, 1980

Happy Independence Day!

The train was pushed onto a ferry, and we went up on deck to change money, use the restroom, explore the duty-free supermarket, and to admire the grey sky and water. It was about 05:00. Welcome to Denmark. Upon getting off the train in Copenhagen, we checked the schedule for several return opportunities to think about. We hiked over to a small park with a pungent plant odor and hungry mosquitoes, to reconnoiter. In playing musical bags, my camera dropped and so did my heart because the last time that happened the     camera became inoperable. But it seemed to work. We got things straightened out and ate our leftover Danishes (appropriate!), before setting off to find the bike rental shop. It was farther than expected, but we got our bikes and they kept our bags for us. It was a different funny feeling to ride these single-speed, coaster-brake bikes, and my seat was much too high. But it was fun as we zoomed to the harbor to see the Little Mermaid statue sitting on a rock in the water. There was a man painting miniatures of the statue. I thought to take a picture of him, but he didn't seem to like the idea. We then rode around and around a park trying to figure a way to reach a windmill rumored to be hidden there. We did find it within a moat-work surrounding a military installation ('teen century quarters but modern soldiers).

Eagle statue

Windmill at Kastellet

We then hopped on the bikes to go to the National Art Museum. We needed to get used to staying to the far right, lest cars nip your heels; and then staying to the right within the bike lanes (which were very nice) lest a speeding cyclist run you down. You also had to yield way to pedestrians (I often mistakenly stopped in the middle of the crosswalk, and managed to make at least one poor pedestrian detour around me.) The National Art Museum was basically full of Danish unknowns. The best part of it was the huge guard in the huge brilliant red great coat. We then pedaled via a probably illegal U-turn, to the Rosenborg Castle, where the ticket man let me in as a student too (“you must truly be a student, who always forgets his card!”). We went first to the crown jewels in a basement vault, then to the castle proper -- an antique shop looking place. There were thick ropes used as the handrail for the spiral staircase. The place even has guards.

Rosenborg Castle ticket

Our next stop was the Amalienborg Palace, the present residence of the royalty. We arrived just in time for the changing of the guard. I stood up on a cement fence post, precariously poised facing the main guard, but a squadron then approached from my right. Later they marched around behind me, and on my perch I couldn't turn at all. These guards smile huge smiles when in people’s photos, but they were too busy to send one my way. Down on the street Kathy could see very little through the crowds, until a squadron marched through them to open up a view directly in front of her.

Changing of the Guard

Changing of the Guard

Changing of the Guard

Changing of the Guard (TAT)

Postcard of Amalienborg with Guards

As the relieved guards marched "home," it turned out they were taking the same route we were, so we followed them on our bikes. They even stopped properly at red traffic lights! We zoomed on in search of a specific restaurant which we never found, but at one stop Terry found her bicycle seat on the ground. It took to falling off at specific intervals. We walked our bikes up the long pedestrian shopping street toward the train station and I discovered that I had a flat tire. We first ate a smorgasbord meal at the station restaurant which seemed to have a lot of pickled stuff and pork. Otherwise it was just a fancy buffet. After eating I tried to call the bike rental shop. No one answered the phone, and the pay phone took my 10 cents! After resting from stuffing ourselves with only a plateful or two each, we walked the distance back to the bike shop. I got a new bike, no questions asked. So off we went again to Thorwaldsen’s Museum -- he was a prolific mostly sculptor of the Roman times. We then went to the Christiansborg Palace which has a steeple of three crowns, one of the three distinctive steeples in Copenhagen.

The steeple of Christiansborg Palace

Christiansborg ruins ticket

We decided to check out the ruins under the Palace; from Absalom's time and of former Christianborg Palaces. And we toured the reception rooms. Again I was let in as a student, but I wasn't to tell anyone. The reception rooms were very impressive, and we had to wear felt overshoes to protect the floors, many of which were nicely parqueted. Our guide was speaking a heavily accented English, and went through some cutesy routines. By the time the tour was over, all the Copenhagen museums were closed. So we got a distant view of the other two steeples; on the Borsen (3 entwined dragon tails) and on a church with an external spiral staircase.

Borsen steeple

Then we zoomed back to see the mermaid in a better light.

The Little Mermaid

We were now used to cycling to the right of the road and know how to negotiate left turns, etc. After seeing the mermaid again, we returned the bikes to the rental shop. The bikes had fixed locks attached to the rear frame which went through the rear wheel. We had to lock up everywhere we went.

Terry and Kathy with our rental bikes

Once back at the station, we made our final decision to head back south instead of going to the Arctic Circle. We went to the Tivoli amusement park to while away the time until leaving on the 22:15 train to Amsterdam. We saw performing dogs play "soccer." And we bought dinner in the Tivoli. Kathy and Terry had hot dogs and I had a hamburger; we all had everything on it: ketchup, sweet and spicy mustard, mayonnaise, fried onion bits, and sweet pickle slices! We wanted some French fries, but never really found any, except those we saw other people eating.

Tivoli

Tivoli roller coaster (TAT)

We returned to the station and found the post office to mail a postcard and our first roll of slides. We then went into the station grocery market to buy snacks in hopes of using up most of the Danish coins.

Copenhagen Map cover

Map of Copenhagen

Finally boarded the train which left a half hour late since they decided at the last minute to add more cars. When boarding, Kathy and Terry went one way and I another. Terry and Kathy found the better compartment, so I abandoned the one I found with another girl who had kept our seats when I went to find them. So now we are all cozy in plush surroundings, but the compartment is filled to capacity. I learned that I snored that night, but everyone was asleep or pretending to be asleep (i.e., Terry who didn't bother nudging me!). Everyone in our compartment communicated in English, even though the girl was from Japan and of the two fellows, at least one was Dutch.

Next: Paris.