1980 Éire/Ireland (7/26-30/1980)

Saturday, July 26, 1980

Back to drafty, freezing night train rides! Arrived in Hendaye about 08:30 and boarded a train headed for Paris on a northerly route. Had a breakfast of a rich cake covered with chocolate, and a sweet flaky pretzel. Got off the Paris train at St. Pierre des Corps at about 14:30 to immediately get on a train headed for Caen. At about 12:00 we had eaten the rest of the sweet pretzels for lunch, and then had no food supplies. Seem to be sleeping most of the way, but Terry and Kathy took time out to play cards. There were complaints of indigestion the night before, probably due to our strange dinner. My indigestion, manifested itself in a very real dream. Arrived in Caen about 17:30 and found we had a half hour wait before the 18:07 to Cherbourg. So we went into town to buy some food supplies, including an onion-cheese pie of which we ate half for dinner just before our mini-train took off. The engineer sat in a booth sticking up on the roof of one of the two cars. We sat in the very front seats and got quite a view of the generally straight-as-an-arrow track. It rained off and on. Finally at 20:30 we arrived in Cherbourg and followed the crowd (which was following no one in particular) until we reached the docks. We made it just in the nick of time to board the “St. Patrick” to Ireland. The port tax was only $5.

Port Tax receipt

No one checked our boarding passes as we came on, so we climbed up to the B-deck and immediately found three empty seats in a row, indoors and next to the buffet restaurant! Had the rest of the onion-cheese pie of our dinner.

Boat leaving Cherbourg

Took turns washing up and exploring the ship (a car ferry with cabins) with a buffet restaurant, a cafeteria, a lounge-discotheque, and a movie theater, plus a duty-free shop, a candy-magazine counter, a money-exchange booth and slot machines where one father-son team appeared to be having Irish luck. Bought several bars of Irish Cadbury chocolate (Fruit and Nut, Dairy Milk, and Whole Nut) and ate a couple before deciding it was too much. Could really feel the rolling of the ship and Terry and Kathy took long walks out on deck to minimize the effects. Before settling in to sleep we each had a Rolaids which seemed to really help the indigestion/seasickness problem.

Sunday, July 27, 1980

Awoke again at 08:00, but only 07:00 Irish time. Washed up in the crowded bathroom which showed the effects of seasickness on others. Had a breakfast of bread and jam and orange soda. It was partly cloudy, but in the distance you could see what was probably England. Later, nothing but water was around the 360° of the horizon. Mostly napped or watched the slot machine players bang the one functioning machine. Kathy didn't trust her stomach, so we waited until landing before eating lunch. Quite an experience to be continually walking up and down hills, even sideways, without meaning to do so. Expected to land at 14:00, or 13:00 Irish time, but it wasn't until then when we had to fill out the landing cards. At 15:00/14:00 we arrived in Rosslare Harbour, Ireland. Went through customs, and found ourselves in the pier train station. However, very few trains left from there, and not very many more left from the mainland station. Took the free bus to the mainland which was only across a canal. Learned that things are very slow on a Sunday in Ireland. We had a choice of a 15:30 bus to Galway, a 20:35 bus to Waterford, or a 17:45 train to Dublin. We and most of the other people wanted to go to Cork, but it would be very complicated. Our Eurailpasses were not valid on the buses, but we decided to take the Galway bus as far as Wexford, and then the train to Dublin. I checked out the possibility of renting a car (to try out the right hand driving!), but it wouldn't be worth it for one day even if they did have any cars left! We had a lunch of pate on bread while it began misting. Bussed for $2.50 each through flat countryside where many single homes offered “bed and breakfast.”

Bus ticket to Wexford

Arrived at the Wexford station to find we really had no other choice but to take the train to Dublin at 18:00. So we took a walk around town finding a couple open stores to buy bread, some soda, and apples to eat along the way. Saw one landmark, the St. Selskar Abbey which was roofless.

Terry and Kathy at St Selskar Abbey

Also saw a couple churches, and a lot of rowhouses with tiny front lawns, many with green, green grass and flowers. Found a small tavern which offered tea and cakes (scones) which we got to keep off the chill of the drizzle, and to kill some time before our train. The cakes were like cupcakes. On our way to the train station it really began to rain so we put on our ponchos. Got the 18:20 train to Dublin which was made of coaches with four seats to a table. Joined a Maryland girl who bantered with the conductor who had a real Irish brogue and "sense of humour." Was he drunk? Passed through misty green countryside, full of cows, sheep, and occasional horses. No people? Finally saw more habitation the closer we got to Dublin. Arrived in Dublin about 21:15 and checked out the schedule to Cork, and learned we would have to leave from the Hueston station. We went in search of a place to stay for the night. Found a bed and breakfast place where we got just beds for the student price of about $5 each. Paid a deposit on the key and were told we could probably tell which were the three empty beds for us. So in the room with two bunks and four other beds, we picked out the one bunk and a bed that had no bags or towels, etc. on them or next to them. We made tuna fish sandwiches for dinner, and then hopped into "our" beds. Later I was awakened by someone who said I was in her bed, and couldn't I tell because her bed had sheets on it. I didn't realize you had to provide your own sheets and got worried because Terry and Kathy’s bunks had sheets, pillows and feather coverlets, and Kathy had a blanket. I went down the three long flights of stairs to get the proprietor. He came up and called roll call, and it turned out that I had the other bottom bunk which had sheets, a blanket and a towel! No one disturbed me the rest of the night. In the walk through Wexford we often dodged brown peat moss pieces mistaken for dog excrement. So now our warning euphemism will be "peat moss!"

Monday, 28 July 1980

Awoke at 06:30 and quickly got ready for the day. Went to turn in our key at the desk, but no one was there. The bell was turned off for the night. So we left the key with a note hoping to return later in the day to get back our deposit ($2). As we went out we disturbed a guy sleeping in the foyer. We took the 1-1/2 mile walk to the Hueston station, and along the way Kathy’s sandal strap broke. Back on the boat, Terry’s zipper on her bag broke and the tab came off. We finally got the zipper tag back on track and later sewed it securely. Earlier in the trip I had worn a hole in the thigh of my already well-patched jeans, so I added a patch underneath from old underwear. I had to darn yet another hole. Once we boarded the train to Cork we all changed into sneakers to keep our feet warm. Had a breakfast of cookies and Fanta. The train left at 07:45. The family sitting across from us had a huge baby (diapers and a pacifer) with an old face like many of the paintings we have seen of children in art galleries. Arrived in Cork at 10:30, where we walked to the bus station and learned the next bus to Blarney was at 11:20. Checked our bags and bought a couple Cadbury candy bars, this time the Turkish Delight (cherry and orange jam fillings) and a Crunchie Bar (a chocolate covered sugar sponge).

Bus ticket to Blarney

The bus to Blarney was a double-decker and we sat in the upper "saloon." It was quite a gallopy ride, and we witnessed the trimming of roadside trees by the bus. Also we could look down in the gardens of the Irish rowhouses, all with lace curtains in the windows. About a half hour later we were dropped off right at the entrance to the Blarney Castle.

Blarney Castle

It cost a little over $1 to enter and we first explored the grounds. Most people came prepared with rubber boots. Took a walk along mucky mud paths through low tunnels out into the cow pastures. Then went another direction to find what we assume were the druidic ruins: witches’ kitchens and man-made caves.

Castle grounds

Also saw faerie glades and Kathy found the wishing steps which led into the stream. We explored the castle ruins, a three-dimensional maze of rooms connected by a narrow spiral staircase. We finally reached the parapets to look down on the green, green Irish countryside, and to see the shiny Blarney Stone.

Looking straight down from the castle parapet

Blarney Castle ruins (TAT)

Blarney countryside

It seemed very few people were willing to kiss the Blarney Stone, and those who did were assisted by one man who held their hips as they lay back with their heads upside down to kiss the stone. Another man took their pictures and gave them a tag (to prove they kissed it and/or to later order their pictures).

Kathy at the wall with the Blarney Stone (TAT)

Heaven knows Kathy doesn't need the gift of gab!

Looking up at the Blarney Stone

Postcard of Blarney Castle

Made our way down and out, and stopped at a grocery store for some provisions. Had a picnic lunch of sardine sandwiches and "cheese and onion" potato chips. Also sampled Blarney cheese which tasted like any cheese spread. We had also stopped at a gift shop where I Mastercharged two coffee cups of Irish bone china to hopefully send to the Js as a thank you gift/souvenir. Then we went to a small coffeehouse to try tea with real scones. It was really someone's house where we ate in the dining and living rooms and the bathroom really had a tub. The scones were doughy muffins made of perhaps flour, water, and raisins and that’s it! Interesting with butter and tea. Also had a plate of "chips" which we ate with vinegar like the natives. At about the time for the bus to come we looked in a couple more gift shops at Aran knitwear and Waterford crystal. The bus back to Cork left at 15:20, so we arrived a bit early for the 17:30 train to Dublin. Walked around Cork for a while and found their department store.

Cork and the River Lee

Cork Trinity Presbyterian Church

Saw lots of evidence of Thompsons, especially in baked goods. Still getting used to looking right first before crossing a street because of the left-side driving. We often wondered about the child or sleeping person at the wheel of a car before realizing where the driver is located. We picked up our bags, found a post office, and returned to the train station where a locomotive is on display along with an electronic board showing the progress of railways in Ireland (a large commuter service?). On the train we had an apple (Granny Smith) and cheese (Blarney) snack, as we watched the sky finally clear on the Virginia-like countryside. It got sunny enough for me to try to take a photo from the train window.

Irish countryside

Arrived in Dublin about 20:15 and started the long hike back to the bed and breakfast place. We noted the unique lamp posts with the shamrock entwined in the design, and were noted by a couple of early young drunks who thought we looked exceptionally well.

Dublin street lights

Seemed to pass through the ghettos, but ended up in the shopping district. Returned to the hotel of the previous night and the man told us he only had one bed left. So we claimed only to have come for our key deposit. Outside some weirdo was telling us that this place was too expensive and that there was a cheaper place nearby. He asked where we were from but didn't understand "U. S." We think he said he was from Italy, but we basically ignored him. We went to look for another hotel. Kathy had seen an advertisement with the words "accommodation" and "student" in the name, and we found such a place. But they were going to charge us 6 pounds each for a room with breakfast. I checked my pockets for cash and the lady reduced her rate to 15 pounds in total. But I only had 14! We walked out and a kid hanging out at the comer told us about a hostel around the corner down an alley. Went there and saw the "Italian" who was probably trying to recommend this very place to us! It had dorms for 1.5 pounds each, but since we didn't have sleeping bags, it was "recommended" that we take a room for 2.5 pounds ($5) each. So we did, and got a very nice room stuck way in the back through a maze and a courtyard. It had a single and a “double" (1-1/2) beds, and a sink. The toilet was just across the hall. Decided to go right out for dinner, and went back to the shopping district and apparent hot spot in Dublin. Looked for a restaurant which would take my charge cards. Picked a cheap Hot Shoppes-type place, and sat down to order. The waitress got down Kathy’s chopped beefsteak special with grilled tomatoes and Terry's scampi, when suddenly she looked up to see what the squealing at the front door was about. She dashed away and we looked towards the door to see several waitresses pushing and shoving a leather-jacketed fellow. We at first thought he was a drunk or a troublemaker they were trying to keep out, the latter he truly was. Then, we noticed a mustachioed fellow in the cashier's booth, and both quickly departed. There was a flurry of waitresses, apparent detectives, and later policemen, as we discovered the place had been robbed of "only a little," but at knife point. I finally was able to order my fish and chips, and we had homogenized milk. For dessert we had vanilla ice cream decorated with stripes of cherry and lime syrup. Walked back to the hostel and got ready for bed. I found a box in the hall with Ajax, thumbtacks, and a couple rags in it. I took the box leaving the contents in the bathroom. I cut the box down to size so that I could mail the Irish mugs to Kathy J. Stuffed the box with pages from a "humor" magazine Kathy had found on a French train. I hope the makeshift packing is good enough! Also took a few thumbtacks to repair Kathy's sandal.

Tuesday, July 29, 1980

Awoke at 08:00 and left, getting our two pound key deposit back immediately this time. Walked to the train station to determine when the train to Rosslare Harbour leaves: at 13:20. We checked our bags, and walked into the center of Dublin. Changed about $20 at an American Express office, and then went into the tiny Trinity College campus. They were offering a tour which we took advantage of, but later found we were taken advantage of. A student gave us cute descriptions as we went into the chapel, the old museum building, and the old library to see the "Book of Celts" (Book of Kells), a monk's manuscript of the four gospels (illuminated!). Also saw other even older books, and an exhibition on Irish authors. Other sights on campus were the theater (now a disco), dining hall, printing press temple, old dorm with a ghost, and Terry saw a shrunken building. We could have seen everything for free, but paid for the explanations.

Trinity College tour ticket

Trinity College Green

We walked over to the National Gallery which was free to see a variety of art by a variety of painters, including, we assume, some Irish ones. Then over to St. Stephen's Green as it got cloudy and cool to have a spam sandwich lunch.

St Stephen's Green

Fellow picnicker

Had a few seagulls fight over Kathy’s pieces of bread, and people-watched: some just laying out on the grass and others feeding the birds. There were lots of seagulls floating on the little lakes. We walked through another shopping district and found a McDonald's to get a milkshake.

Postcard of Dublin

Returned to the train station, picked up our bags, and Terry and Kathy almost boarded a northbound train. Got the 13:20 for Rosslare Harbour, as it started to rain. The conductor wanted to make sure my name wasn't Russian, and noted that Kathy's was truly Irish as he checked our Eurailpasses. Arrived in Rosslare at 16:30, and hurried to the ticket office to get our boarding passes and join the large crowd waiting to board. 

Boarding pass to LeHavre

We finally boarded at 17:00 which was when we thought we were to leave. Got seats on the lowest possible deck to minimize the effects of the sea, next to a talkative Georgian and a nice, quiet Australian. Went to the cafeteria for an early dinner of Wexfordburgers (processed meat patties), chips, and rubber mixed vegetables. Had ice cream with chocolate ants for dessert. Took a walk around the boat to see the disco, and to find there were only two working toilets for the females, bought some After Eight mints, then were entertained by the Georgian talker. Kathy offered the mints around, many of the French boy scouts came and asked for some. We “ran out.” A French boy played Mastermind with Kathy and Terry, even though they didn't speak a common language, and someone borrowed our cards.

Kathy and her French Mastermind opponent

The talker had a lot of stories, mostly about his extensive travels around the world (courtesy of the Army) and his collection of precious stones bought outrageously cheap. The Australian joined us and suddenly we were talking of medical school and surgeries, etc. Finally got some sleep when the Georgian (Henry Smith as reported by Kathy who peeked at his suitcase tags) went up to the bar.

Wednesday, July 30, 1980

Awoke as usual at 08:00 after having gone upstairs to avoid a cold draft from an open window. The trip was rocky for a while in the middle of the night, but we survived. Spent the very last of our Irish change on a breakfast of an orange, an apple, a croissant, and chocolate yogurt. Went back downstairs to have the talker tell us more tales, give us advice about our love lives, and teach us a challenging new way to play solitaire. A nearby Irishman played his banjo for our morning entertainment.

Whitish cliffs of England (TAT)

Finally after 12:00 we went up to the buffet to charge our lunch (about $25 altogether). Lots of different fish dishes, some sliced cold meats, and cold chicken. Good artificial mashed potatoes, and I now know what eggs mayonnaise is: scrambled eggs in a generous amount of mayonnaise. Apricots, pineapple, and a sweet whipped jello for dessert, along with cheese and crackers. Noted others preparing sandwiches to go, so we did the same, but not to the same excess. Went back down to join the world traveler who played cards and tried to sell us an elephant. Finally arrived in LeHavre, France about 16:00, or 17:00 French time.

The "St. Patrick" in LeHavre

Exchanged some French francs for U.S. dollars with two girls who didn't have the currency to pay for the bus. But it turned out that we didn't have to pay for the bus that took us the 2-1/2 miles or so to the train station. Noted the next trains were headed for Paris at 17:55 and 18:05. So we boarded the first train, which didn't leave until 18:05. Found out we were somehow on a special train and had to pay $5 each as a supplemental fee! Depleted our French funds in half! Arrived at Gare St. Lazare just before 20:00, and Metro'ed to Gare du Nord. On the Metro we finally met a polite African who offered me his seat, but he was black, not Arabic. At Gare du Nord we had a supper of the St. Patrick ham sandwiches and a Nestle's Crunch bar as we waited for our 23:20 train to Amsterdam. Saw some neighbors from Monsey making a long telephone call. Boarded our train early on regular coach cars, and it filled up fast. I ended up with a Moroccan seat companion who fulfilled the northern African reputation. He spoke no English, but a little German, so we haltingly conversed in the latter. He started out innocently enough with the usual small talk, but then the questions became personal: if I was married and if I was “free.” To him, not being married meant I was free, even if there was a man in the wings. This guy started to paw me. I had to physically rebuff him, and then I lectured him. He had said he wanted me to stay awake to talk to him. Entertain was what he meant! Terry spotted a real rat in the Paris station.

Next: Gouda and Köln/Cologne.