Thursday, July 31, 1980

1980 Gouda and Köln/Cologne (7/31/1980)

Thursday, July 31, 1980
Last day of July! Spent an uncomfortable night ignoring the Moroccan, and almost bust my bladder so as to not have to climb over him. Finally arrived in Amsterdam at about 09:30. Bought some provisions before the 10:22 train to Gouda. In Gouda, we at first headed the wrong direction through a peaceful park before finding the extremely crowded cheese area. Stalls were selling everything, but we wanted to see the old men in wooden shoes in horse-drawn carts full of huge rounds of cheese.
Postcard of Gouda market
Gouda cheese market
Gouda Stadhuis/City Hall
Bought ourselves a chunk of cheese, some goudse siroopwafels/Gouda syrup waffles, and a "new" herring sandwich smothered in onions. Walked back to the peaceful park for lunch where a big black dog wanted to share our sandwich.
Terry and Kathy picnic in the park
The apparently raw herring wasn't so bad after all, and we stuffed on St. Patrick bread with the cheese, and sesame crackers with cheese, and orange juice. Back at the market we also saw a cheese-making demonstration and a wooden-shoe carver. We took a train from Gouda to Utrecht where the train schedule decided we should go to KölnGermany. Got in a “crowded” compartment with two Japanese girls and their huge suitcase and a lady who kept running in and out after every station. In Köln we were able to exchange some money including some coins. Then we stepped out of the station and into the Kölner Dom/cathedral.
Kölner Dom (TAT)
Treasury ticket
Visited the "treasury" for a small fee and walked around in the church. Areas to visit were limited unless you wanted to go to confession. Went out to take some photos and returned to the station. Got some peaches to eat while waiting for the 17:57 train to Koblenz.
Rhine River Valley from the train
Arrived in Koblenz about 19:00, and went on a long search for a hotel. There were none along the street to the waterfront, and none along the waterfront. Walked towards the city center, and passed a 5-star hotel before finding ours. At first we walked into the bar, but left not realizing that was also where the reception desk was. A man came out to call us back and we inquired about a room. I then asked (in German) if I could use my charge cards, and it turned out that I couldn't. The clerk assumed our business was over until I said I had the cash to pay! Took a room with three beds with feather pillows and coverlets. Had a shower stall and a sink; the toilet and tub were just down the hall. Washed some clothes, then went out for dinner. Walked through the city center in search of a McDonald’s type place, but ended up at the Wienerwald near the train station. The service seemed extremely slow. We saw the hotel clerk at another table. Kathy and Terry tried the good homemade chicken noodle soup, and we shared two farmer's dinners and a Frühlingsrolle/spring roll. This Frühlingsrolle had a Chinese egg roll taste and chicken in the filling. The farmer's dinners were not as good as the one Kathy had in München, having bigger chunks of potato and chicken, with bonus skin and organs (stomach?). Also had “rye” seeds as well as onion and bacon bits. For dessert Kathy and I had a "Mozart cup," a kind of chocolate sundae, but the chocolate sauce had a mocha taste. Terry had ice cream. Couldn't get the waitress to come and give us a check until we actually got up to leave. Bought some cans of Fanta to drink on the way back to the hotel. We showered and tried to fix Kathy's sandal with a bit of wire hangar because the thumbtacks didn't work. To bed with the hotel neon sign shining in our window.
Next: Rhein/Rhine River.

Wednesday, July 30, 1980

1980 Éire/Ireland (7/26-30/1980)

Saturday, July 26, 1980
Back to drafty, freezing night train rides! Arrived in Hendaye about 08:30 and boarded a train headed for Paris on a northerly route. Had a breakfast of a rich cake covered with chocolate, and a sweet flaky pretzel. Got off the Paris train at St. Pierre des Corps at about 14:30 to immediately get on a train headed for Caen. At about 12:00 we had eaten the rest of the sweet pretzels for lunch, and then had no food supplies. Seem to be sleeping most of the way, but Terry and Kathy took time out to play cards. There were complaints of indigestion the night before, probably due to our strange dinner. My indigestion, manifested itself in a very real dream. Arrived in Caen about 17:30 and found we had a half hour wait before the 18:07 to Cherbourg. So we went into town to buy some food supplies, including an onion-cheese pie of which we ate half for dinner just before our mini-train took off. The engineer sat in a booth sticking up on the roof of one of the two cars. We sat in the very front seats and got quite a view of the generally straight-as-an-arrow track. It rained off and on. Finally at 20:30 we arrived in Cherbourg and followed the crowd (which was following no one in particular) until we reached the docks. We made it just in the nick of time to board the “St. Patrick” to Ireland. The port tax was only $5.
Port Tax receipt
No one checked our boarding passes as we came on, so we climbed up to the B-deck and immediately found three empty seats in a row, indoors and next to the buffet restaurant! Had the rest of the onion-cheese pie of our dinner.
Boat leaving Cherbourg
Took turns washing up and exploring the ship (a car ferry with cabins) with a buffet restaurant, a cafeteria, a lounge-discotheque, and a movie theater, plus a duty-free shop, a candy-magazine counter, a money-exchange booth and slot machines where one father-son team appeared to be having Irish luck. Bought several bars of Irish Cadbury chocolate (Fruit and Nut, Dairy Milk, and Whole Nut) and ate a couple before deciding it was too much. Could really feel the rolling of the ship and Terry and Kathy took long walks out on deck to minimize the effects. Before settling in to sleep we each had a Rolaids which seemed to really help the indigestion/seasickness problem.

Sunday, July 27, 1980
Awoke again at 08:00, but only 07:00 Irish time. Washed up in the crowded bathroom which showed the effects of seasickness on others. Had a breakfast of bread and jam and orange soda. It was partly cloudy, but in the distance you could see what was probably England. Later, nothing but water was around the 360° of the horizon. Mostly napped or watched the slot machine players bang the one functioning machine. Kathy didn't trust her stomach, so we waited until landing before eating lunch. Quite an experience to be continually walking up and down hills, even sideways, without meaning to do so. Expected to land at 14:00, or 13:00 Irish time, but it wasn't until then when we had to fill out the landing cards. At 15:00/14:00 we arrived in Rosslare HarbourIreland. Went through customs, and found ourselves in the pier train station. However, very few trains left from there, and not very many more left from the mainland station. Took the free bus to the mainland which was only across a canal. Learned that things are very slow on a Sunday in Ireland. We had a choice of a 15:30 bus to Galway, a 20:35 bus to Waterford, or a 17:45 train to Dublin. We and most of the other people wanted to go to Cork, but it would be very complicated. Our Eurailpasses were not valid on the buses, but we decided to take the Galway bus as far as Wexford, and then the train to Dublin. I checked out the possibility of renting a car (to try out the right hand driving!), but it wouldn't be worth it for one day even if they did have any cars left! We had a lunch of pate on bread while it began misting. Bussed for $2.50 each through flat countryside where many single homes offered “bed and breakfast.”
Bus ticket to Wexford
Arrived at the Wexford station to find we really had no other choice but to take the train to Dublin at 18:00. So we took a walk around town finding a couple open stores to buy bread, some soda, and apples to eat along the way. Saw one landmark, the St. Selskar Abbey which was roofless.
Terry and Kathy at St Selskar Abbey
Also saw a couple churches, and a lot of rowhouses with tiny front lawns, many with green, green grass and flowers. Found a small tavern which offered tea and cakes (scones) which we got to keep off the chill of the drizzle, and to kill some time before our train. The cakes were like cupcakes. On our way to the train station it really began to rain so we put on our ponchos. Got the 18:20 train to Dublin which was made of coaches with four seats to a table. Joined a Maryland girl who bantered with the conductor who had a real Irish brogue and "sense of humour." Was he drunk? Passed through misty green countryside, full of cows, sheep, and occasional horses. No people? Finally saw more habitation the closer we got to Dublin. Arrived in Dublin about 21:15 and checked out the schedule to Cork, and learned we would have to leave from the Hueston station. We went in search of a place to stay for the night. Found a bed and breakfast place where we got just beds for the student price of about $5 each. Paid a deposit on the key and were told we could probably tell which were the three empty beds for us. So in the room with two bunks and four other beds, we picked out the one bunk and a bed that had no bags or towels, etc. on them or next to them. We made tuna fish sandwiches for dinner, and then hopped into "our" beds. Later I was awakened by someone who said I was in her bed, and couldn't I tell because her bed had sheets on it. I didn't realize you had to provide your own sheets and got worried because Terry and Kathy’s bunks had sheets, pillows and feather coverlets, and Kathy had a blanket. I went down the three long flights of stairs to get the proprietor. He came up and called roll call, and it turned out that I had the other bottom bunk which had sheets, a blanket and a towel! No one disturbed me the rest of the night. In the walk through Wexford we often dodged brown peat moss pieces mistaken for dog excrement. So now our warning euphemism will be "peat moss!"

Monday, 28 July 1980
Awoke at 06:30 and quickly got ready for the day. Went to turn in our key at the desk, but no one was there. The bell was turned off for the night. So we left the key with a note hoping to return later in the day to get back our deposit ($2). As we went out we disturbed a guy sleeping in the foyer. We took the 1-1/2 mile walk to the Hueston station, and along the way Kathy’s sandal strap broke. Back on the boat, Terry’s zipper on her bag broke and the tab came off. We finally got the zipper tag back on track and later sewed it securely. Earlier in the trip I had worn a hole in the thigh of my already well-patched jeans, so I added a patch underneath from old underwear. I had to darn yet another hole. Once we boarded the train to Cork we all changed into sneakers to keep our feet warm. Had a breakfast of cookies and Fanta. The train left at 07:45. The family sitting across from us had a huge baby (diapers and a pacifer) with an old face like many of the paintings we have seen of children in art galleries. Arrived in Cork at 10:30, where we walked to the bus station and learned the next bus to Blarney was at 11:20. Checked our bags and bought a couple Cadbury candy bars, this time the Turkish Delight (cherry and orange jam fillings) and a Crunchie Bar (a chocolate covered sugar sponge).
Bus ticket to Blarney
The bus to Blarney was a double-decker and we sat in the upper "saloon." It was quite a gallopy ride, and we witnessed the trimming of roadside trees by the bus. Also we could look down in the gardens of the Irish rowhouses, all with lace curtains in the windows. About a half hour later we were dropped off right at the entrance to the Blarney Castle.
Blarney Castle
It cost a little over $1 to enter and we first explored the grounds. Most people came prepared with rubber boots. Took a walk along mucky mud paths through low tunnels out into the cow pastures. Then went another direction to find what we assume were the druidic ruins: witches’ kitchens and man-made caves.
Castle grounds
Also saw faerie glades and Kathy found the wishing steps which led into the stream. We explored the castle ruins, a three-dimensional maze of rooms connected by a narrow spiral staircase. We finally reached the parapets to look down on the green, green Irish countryside, and to see the shiny Blarney Stone.
Looking straight down from the castle parapet
Blarney Castle ruins (TAT)
Blarney countryside
It seemed very few people were willing to kiss the Blarney Stone, and those who did were assisted by one man who held their hips as they lay back with their heads upside down to kiss the stone. Another man took their pictures and gave them a tag (to prove they kissed it and/or to later order their pictures).
Kathy at the wall with the Blarney Stone (TAT)
Heaven knows Kathy doesn't need the gift of gab!
Looking up at the Blarney Stone
Postcard of Blarney Castle
Made our way down and out, and stopped at a grocery store for some provisions. Had a picnic lunch of sardine sandwiches and "cheese and onion" potato chips. Also sampled Blarney cheese which tasted like any cheese spread. We had also stopped at a gift shop where I Mastercharged two coffee cups of Irish bone china to hopefully send to the Js as a thank you gift/souvenir. Then we went to a small coffeehouse to try tea with real scones. It was really someone's house where we ate in the dining and living rooms and the bathroom really had a tub. The scones were doughy muffins made of perhaps flour, water, and raisins and that’s it! Interesting with butter and tea. Also had a plate of "chips" which we ate with vinegar like the natives. At about the time for the bus to come we looked in a couple more gift shops at Aran knitwear and Waterford crystal. The bus back to Cork left at 15:20, so we arrived a bit early for the 17:30 train to Dublin. Walked around Cork for a while and found their department store.
Cork and the River Lee
Cork Trinity Presbyterian Church
Saw lots of evidence of Thompsons, especially in baked goods. Still getting used to looking right first before crossing a street because of the left-side driving. We often wondered about the child or sleeping person at the wheel of a car before realizing where the driver is located. We picked up our bags, found a post office, and returned to the train station where a locomotive is on display along with an electronic board showing the progress of railways in Ireland (a large commuter service?). On the train we had an apple (Granny Smith) and cheese (Blarney) snack, as we watched the sky finally clear on the Virginia-like countryside. It got sunny enough for me to try to take a photo from the train window.
Irish countryside
Arrived in Dublin about 20:15 and started the long hike back to the bed and breakfast place. We noted the unique lamp posts with the shamrock entwined in the design, and were noted by a couple of early young drunks who thought we looked exceptionally well.
Dublin street lights
Seemed to pass through the ghettos, but ended up in the shopping district. Returned to the hotel of the previous night and the man told us he only had one bed left. So we claimed only to have come for our key deposit. Outside some weirdo was telling us that this place was too expensive and that there was a cheaper place nearby. He asked where we were from but didn't understand "U. S." We think he said he was from Italy, but we basically ignored him. We went to look for another hotel. Kathy had seen an advertisement with the words "accommodation" and "student" in the name, and we found such a place. But they were going to charge us 6 pounds each for a room with breakfast. I checked my pockets for cash and the lady reduced her rate to 15 pounds in total. But I only had 14! We walked out and a kid hanging out at the comer told us about a hostel around the corner down an alley. Went there and saw the "Italian" who was probably trying to recommend this very place to us! It had dorms for 1.5 pounds each, but since we didn't have sleeping bags, it was "recommended" that we take a room for 2.5 pounds ($5) each. So we did, and got a very nice room stuck way in the back through a maze and a courtyard. It had a single and a “double" (1-1/2) beds, and a sink. The toilet was just across the hall. Decided to go right out for dinner, and went back to the shopping district and apparent hot spot in Dublin. Looked for a restaurant which would take my charge cards. Picked a cheap Hot Shoppes-type place, and sat down to order. The waitress got down Kathy’s chopped beefsteak special with grilled tomatoes and Terry's scampi, when suddenly she looked up to see what the squealing at the front door was about. She dashed away and we looked towards the door to see several waitresses pushing and shoving a leather-jacketed fellow. We at first thought he was a drunk or a troublemaker they were trying to keep out, the latter he truly was. Then, we noticed a mustachioed fellow in the cashier's booth, and both quickly departed. There was a flurry of waitresses, apparent detectives, and later policemen, as we discovered the place had been robbed of "only a little," but at knife point. I finally was able to order my fish and chips, and we had homogenized milk. For dessert we had vanilla ice cream decorated with stripes of cherry and lime syrup. Walked back to the hostel and got ready for bed. I found a box in the hall with Ajax, thumbtacks, and a couple rags in it. I took the box leaving the contents in the bathroom. I cut the box down to size so that I could mail the Irish mugs to Kathy J. Stuffed the box with pages from a "humor" magazine Kathy had found on a French train. I hope the makeshift packing is good enough! Also took a few thumbtacks to repair Kathy's sandal.

Tuesday, July 29, 1980
Awoke at 08:00 and left, getting our two pound key deposit back immediately this time. Walked to the train station to determine when the train to Rosslare Harbour leaves: at 13:20. We checked our bags, and walked into the center of Dublin. Changed about $20 at an American Express office, and then went into the tiny Trinity College campus. They were offering a tour which we took advantage of, but later found we were taken advantage of. A student gave us cute descriptions as we went into the chapel, the old museum building, and the old library to see the "Book of Celts" (Book of Kells), a monk's manuscript of the four gospels (illuminated!). Also saw other even older books, and an exhibition on Irish authors. Other sights on campus were the theater (now a disco), dining hall, printing press temple, old dorm with a ghost, and Terry saw a shrunken building. We could have seen everything for free, but paid for the explanations.
Trinity College tour ticket
Trinity College Green
We walked over to the National Gallery which was free to see a variety of art by a variety of painters, including, we assume, some Irish ones. Then over to St. Stephen's Green as it got cloudy and cool to have a spam sandwich lunch.
St Stephen's Green
Fellow picnicker
Had a few seagulls fight over Kathy’s pieces of bread, and people-watched: some just laying out on the grass and others feeding the birds. There were lots of seagulls floating on the little lakes. We walked through another shopping district and found a McDonald's to get a milkshake.
Postcard of Dublin
Returned to the train station, picked up our bags, and Terry and Kathy almost boarded a northbound train. Got the 13:20 for Rosslare Harbour, as it started to rain. The conductor wanted to make sure my name wasn't Russian, and noted that Kathy's was truly Irish as he checked our Eurailpasses. Arrived in Rosslare at 16:30, and hurried to the ticket office to get our boarding passes and join the large crowd waiting to board. 
Boarding pass to LeHavre
We finally boarded at 17:00 which was when we thought we were to leave. Got seats on the lowest possible deck to minimize the effects of the sea, next to a talkative Georgian and a nice, quiet Australian. Went to the cafeteria for an early dinner of Wexfordburgers (processed meat patties), chips, and rubber mixed vegetables. Had ice cream with chocolate ants for dessert. Took a walk around the boat to see the disco, and to find there were only two working toilets for the females, bought some After Eight mints, then were entertained by the Georgian talker. Kathy offered the mints around, many of the French boy scouts came and asked for some. We “ran out.” A French boy played Mastermind with Kathy and Terry, even though they didn't speak a common language, and someone borrowed our cards.
Kathy and her French Mastermind opponent
The talker had a lot of stories, mostly about his extensive travels around the world (courtesy of the Army) and his collection of precious stones bought outrageously cheap. The Australian joined us and suddenly we were talking of medical school and surgeries, etc. Finally got some sleep when the Georgian (Henry Smith as reported by Kathy who peeked at his suitcase tags) went up to the bar.

Wednesday, July 30, 1980
Awoke as usual at 08:00 after having gone upstairs to avoid a cold draft from an open window. The trip was rocky for a while in the middle of the night, but we survived. Spent the very last of our Irish change on a breakfast of an orange, an apple, a croissant, and chocolate yogurt. Went back downstairs to have the talker tell us more tales, give us advice about our love lives, and teach us a challenging new way to play solitaire. A nearby Irishman played his banjo for our morning entertainment.
Whitish cliffs of England (TAT)
Finally after 12:00 we went up to the buffet to charge our lunch (about $25 altogether). Lots of different fish dishes, some sliced cold meats, and cold chicken. Good artificial mashed potatoes, and I now know what eggs mayonnaise is: scrambled eggs in a generous amount of mayonnaise. Apricots, pineapple, and a sweet whipped jello for dessert, along with cheese and crackers. Noted others preparing sandwiches to go, so we did the same, but not to the same excess. Went back down to join the world traveler who played cards and tried to sell us an elephant. Finally arrived in LeHavre, France about 16:00, or 17:00 French time.
The "St. Patrick" in LeHavre
Exchanged some French francs for U.S. dollars with two girls who didn't have the currency to pay for the bus. But it turned out that we didn't have to pay for the bus that took us the 2-1/2 miles or so to the train station. Noted the next trains were headed for Paris at 17:55 and 18:05. So we boarded the first train, which didn't leave until 18:05. Found out we were somehow on a special train and had to pay $5 each as a supplemental fee! Depleted our French funds in half! Arrived at Gare St. Lazare just before 20:00, and Metro'ed to Gare du Nord. On the Metro we finally met a polite African who offered me his seat, but he was black, not Arabic. At Gare du Nord we had a supper of the St. Patrick ham sandwiches and a Nestle's Crunch bar as we waited for our 23:20 train to Amsterdam. Saw some neighbors from Monsey making a long telephone call. Boarded our train early on regular coach cars, and it filled up fast. I ended up with a Moroccan seat companion who fulfilled the northern African reputation. He spoke no English, but a little German, so we haltingly conversed in the latter. He started out innocently enough with the usual small talk, but then the questions became personal: if I was married and if I was “free.” To him, not being married meant I was free, even if there was a man in the wings. This guy started to paw me. I had to physically rebuff him, and then I lectured him. He had said he wanted me to stay awake to talk to him. Entertain was what he meant! Terry spotted a real rat in the Paris station.
Next: Gouda and Köln/Cologne.

Friday, July 25, 1980

1980 Torrejon again (7/25/1980)

Friday, 25 July 1980
Slept until fairly late, and soon arrived in Madrid about 11:00. During the last leg of our trip from Lisboa we saw some typical Mediterranean countryside -- rocky hills with scrubby growth; fig and olive trees, prickly pear and century plants, and cork trees "stripped (up) to the waist." On this trip, our car bounced so violently we know there were no shocks and felt the car would leave the track. The Spanish trains have given us some very jiggly rides. Took the local train to the Chamartin station where no train schedule was posted, just like in the U.S.! So we joined the international ticket line as Terry went to see if she could exchange the remaining 20-escudo bill from Portugal. The money-changer relented to Terry’s sad face, and gave her the 20 pesetas (about 30 cents!). We finally got our seat reservations for the 21:55 train to Hendaye on the northern coast at the French border.
Madrid to Hendaye seat reservation
Then we wandered around the shops to see if we could get flowers or something to take to Kathy J, but found nothing appropriate. So we boarded the local train to Torrejon on which we had a brunch of cookies and gasossa, and chips and water. Arrived in Torrejon about 14:00, and took the bus to the J's. Kathy J had the ingredients for an iced tea party, and as we took turns showering, we recounted to her our trip so far as we munched melted chocolate chip cookies and pound cake. Finally at about 17:30 we took off across the field with our bags and took the bus, then train, to the Chamartin station. On the train coming to Chamartin, Terry was bothered by two guys who waited for the chance to sit across from her when the seats were abandoned by a couple. These two also noisily banged on the window to get the attention of two young girls outside in a station. Terry concentrated so hard on staring out the window that she missed it when they left, and when a gang of four boys came running in to gnaw or knife the edgings of the seats to pull out the cords inside. They collected 5-6 from our car, and even one from the seat across from Terry.We checked out the self-service cafeteria menu, and the meal of the day looked good. We went to sit among the shops where it was air-conditioned; the shops were not very busy. At 20:00 we returned to the cafeteria to find they had changed the menu of the day. But we went in anyway and pointed out the foods we wanted. We had a cold potato salad type appetizer. Then main dishes of tortilla Españole (potato omelet), a fish (bacalao a la vizcaina/Biscayan cod) in an oily tomato sauce, and calamare rings (we later found out they were squid!), all microwaved. We finished off with strawberry yogurt and a cinnamon rice pudding. After our experimental Spanish dinner, we bought some pastries with the last of our Spanish change, and boarded the train. We were the only three reserved seats in our compartment. Unusual for Spain as was the on-time 21:55 departure. We noticed big clouds coming, and as we left Madrid, it began to rain.
Next: Éire/Ireland.

Thursday, July 24, 1980

1980 Lisboa/Lisbon (7/24/1980)

Thursday, 24 July 1980
In the middle of the night, there was a smell of electricity and the train came to a halt in a small station. It was stopped for 2-3 hours as rumors flew around that the "main engine" was broken down. At the same time a crew of men hammered at the wheels of the car behind us. Finally we started off as most of the passengers waiting outside made a mad dash to board the train. Slept on and off through the night; the Dutch fellow slept on the floor between the seats, and a German guy went up into the luggage area over the corridor. One of our German compartment mates was drunk, and so was not disturbed by sleeping out in the corridor. Early in the morning we took turns “window-hanging” so that the German guys could have the seats for dozing. Coming into one station, there was a burning smell and smoke/dust creeping into our compartment. Another long station layover as the crew worked on the locked brakes of our car. Finally arrived in Lisboa at 13:30, four hours later than scheduled. Lisboa time was only 12:30.
Ticket for Lisbon
Terry and Kathy went to information for a map, and then got in the line for train tickets. I joined a Spanish line at the money exchange window and finally got $50 worth of Portuguese escudos. Joined Terry and Kathy, and we finally got our tickets back to Madrid for that evening. We went to sit outside for a brunch of stale melba toast and strawberry jam, and water. Then took a hike practically straight up the hill to the old section of town where they were not having the Thieves’ Market. So we continued on to the castle of Sao Jorge. Near the entrance two fellows told us our friends from the U.S. have just arrived, and were snubbed when we ignored them. Walked around the castle for a view of the harbor and city below, and saw the open-air aviary including some white peacocks.
View from Sao Jorge (TAT)
Kathy at Sao Jorge (TAT)
Kathy using a fountain (TAT)
White peacocks
I then discovered my film hadn't been winding through the camera, so I had to start all over, and we thus missed some pictures of the J family and Madrid. Walked to a tiled arbor where a lot of "little" boys were splashing in a pool, including a couple of nudists.
Tiled arbor
Arbor view (TAT)
Walked down the hill to downtown and joined the crowds of people. Found a restaurant to try, but first continued up the main avenue a ways to see the shopping center at the mid-town train station, and to see the incline trolley. Returned to the restaurant where we ordered some "typical" dishes. Kathy had filet pork ribs with clams in an oily tomato sauce (Portuguese style). Terry had beefsteak and potatoes ala Portuguesa, and I had hake filets with boiled potatoes with mayonnaise. Everything was very salty. We had a waiter whose eye was very hard to catch, and Kathy got "a bit" upset and stormed out of the restaurant. Finally an older waiter came to give us our bill, and apparently he thought only Terry and I had eaten since Kathy had left, so even when we tried to explain, we only got charged for two dinners. The total was less than $9! Then did a little shopping for a bottle of gasossa and cookies, and water to tide us over on our trip back to Madrid. Walked towards the port where the ferries take off, and saw the "gateway" to the city.
Praça do Comércio with Arco da Rua Augusta
and statue of King José I
In the distance you could see the Christ monument. Saw lots of old trolleys and double-decker buses. Walked through the market area along the waterfront. Took the long walk back to the train station along a street obviously not used much by tourists as we got stared at by the lots of men just hanging around. Passed a series of fountains where bums were washing up.
Rossio Square with the Column of Pedro IV
Finally reached the station. Used the last of our Portuguese change on ice cream, and changed the bills back into pesetas. Had a long wait for the train which came in a couple hours late. I had to use the station restroom, and used the very last Portuguese coins (about 6 cents worth) to tip the cleaning lady. Finally after watching station crewman pile bags of mail precariously on carts which were quickly but neatly pulled through the crowds of people, we boarded the train. It left rather soon after that, and in our compartment we were joined by three Spanish-speaking fellows. It turned out they spoke English fairly well, and were from Bolivia and Chile, but they had lived in Sweden the last six years. They wanted to have a pretty heavy politico-social conversation with us, especially concerning the black situation (i.e., the Miami riots). They finished off a bottle of port (from Portugal, of course) from which they offered Terry and Kathy sips. Kathy and Terry attempted to go to the restaurant car several times, but were thwarted by customs officials. After that business was done, they found the snack bar at which they were to use up a 50-escudo bill, but only spent 30 of them on a couple bags of potato chips. The South Americans then went to the snack bar for several bottles of beer to help celebrate the 22nd birthday of Arijez. The others were Alberto and Luis (both aged 20). They had fun guessing our ages. Soon we went to sleep, and Luis climbed up into the luggage rack over the corridor. When the next set of customs officials came through, they were wondering to whom the extra passport belonged until Luis yoohooed from above!
Next: Torrejon again.

Wednesday, July 23, 1980

1980 Torrejon (7/22-23/1980)

Tuesday, July 22, 1980
Awoke early and mistakenly ordered breakfast of coffee with rolls and marmalade. Checked out, then went to the American Express office where I obediently took a number as the sign requested, but then joined a "Spanish line" since I was being ignored. Finally got information as to the whereabouts of the post office and the American Embassy. We walked to the post office to mail postcards and a roll of film which didn't fit into the slot of the indoor mailbox. Took the very long hike to the Embassy, only to join another Spanish line before finding out they have "nothing" to do with the U.S. Air Force! So we Metro'ed to the Atocha train station and found out when the Lisboa train left. We went to the suburban station to catch the 12:18 train to Torrejon, where Kathy and Rod J are based.
Train ticket to Torrejon
At Torrejon, no one seemed to speak English. One fellow indicated someone in the bar might speak English, but no one did! Through Italian, the bartender let me know that yes, there was an American base and the best way to go there was by taxi, since we would have to walk too far if we took the bus. He said to just say "americano" to the taxi driver. So after some potato chips and water we went to find a taxi. We had a tough time trying to explain to the driver where we wanted to go. It seemed he finally decided to take us somewhere and we just hoped it would be the right place. We did end up at the base where an English-speaking guard told us we needed passes. So we paid the taxi driver and went into the guardhouse. I joined another Spanish line and found these guards didn't speak much English! I was told to dial the operator on the phone to get the pharmacy number, and then call my friend. It turned out that Rod had that afternoon off! One of his co-workers volunteered to drive us to the J's off-base housing when he learned where we had come from! So surprise, we finally found Kathy! Spent some time visiting while Rod went to do some laundry, including some of ours! Had a Hamburger Helper dinner, and played with cute Mikayla. When Rod finally came home from doing the laundry (with timeouts in the gym!), we took a walk through the neighboring apartment complexes and bought some sodas and bread. Had some ice cream sandwiches and walked to the "Bazaar," a series of market-type shops, but it was closed. Wandered back through a park with a fountain and duck pond, and guys playing soccer. Returned to the J's apartment for the first good shower in a long time, and went to bed.

Wednesday, July 23, 1980
Awoke early at 08:00 and while Kathy showered, we prepared for the day, consolidating our three bags into two in anticipation of checking them at the Atocha station. Had a breakfast of toast and oranges, and then set off with Kathy J and Mikayla for Madrid. First walked across the big field to the bus stop discovered the night before, and soon a bus came to take us to central Torrejon. Took the short walk to the train station where Kathy J asked for a ticket to Madrid and was given two tickets which we assumed were for a round-trip, boarded the train, and got off at the Atocha station in Madrid. Marched all around the station looking for the baggage lockers as indicated by the signs, but found none. So we went to the baggage check area to find that was closed by the police. I had in the meantime gotten our tickets for Lisboa, and we were at a loss as to where to store our bags. Decided to go to the nearby Prado where we thought Terry and Kathy could get in free with their student passes, and then check their bags for the day. But the Prado had no coatroom, and they weren't letting anyone in with their backpacks. So it was decided that Terry and Kathy would sit outside the Prado under the nice shade trees with the bags while Kathy J and I went off to explore with Mikayla in the borrowed stroller. We walked past a couple of the very interesting fountains and towards the arch of the Plaza Independenza. We went to a couple stores to buy some ham slices, bread, potato chips, and a liter of Fanta. We took everything back to Terry and Kathy to have our lunch. Their only excitement was a cute blonde guy walking by. We saw some Spanish military personnel with sub-machine guns and plastic black hats which were flattened in the back. Kathy J, Mikayla and I walked to the Puerta del Sol and up the shopping street. Did some window shopping and Kathy J bought some of the Maja soap for Rod’s cousin. We also bought a 1.5 liter of Pepsi because we figured everyone would be thirsty. On our way back, Kathy and I talked "religion." As we drank the Pepsi with Terry and Kathy, they told us that they got a better look at the cute blonde. As they played cards, they received a lot of stares and a sitting companion, and then two nuisances wanted to play poker with them. They saw two Spaniards pick up two tourist girls from a nearby bench. And Terry was bombarded by a pigeon. We then decided to head back to Torrejon. At the Atocha station there was still no baggage check. Took the train, where we discovered that Kathy J's return ticket was actually another one-way ticket from Torrejon to Madrid. But the conductor forgave our ignorance. Took the bus back towards Kathy’s apartment where we drank up a lot of Kool-Aid. Rod came home and cooked up a southern/Japanese dish of rice with beans and ham, which we thought was pretty good, but he thought was too dry.
Mikayla, Rod and Kathy J (TAT)
Mikayla, Rod and Kathy J (TAT)
Mikayla
Terry, Kathy T. and I left our bags at the J's and set off across the field to take the bus to Torrejon where we caught the train to Madrid. We tried to change some money to Portuguese escudos, but the guy only wanted to sell pesetas. So we sat and waited on a bench in the station, writing postcards and eating "Smarties" (the European M&Ms) until our 22:50 train to Lisboa. We found our assigned seats and were joined by a Portuguese girl who claimed the only unreserved seat. Her two companions went elsewhere. A Dutch fellow speaking good English (and German) took one seat and the remaining three seats were taken by German. fellows. The German guys took their wine and beer to the next compartment to party. So the rest of us had a little more room to stretch out.
Next: Lisboa/Lisbon.

Monday, July 21, 1980

1980 Madrid (7/21/1980)

Monday, July 21, 1980
Arrived in Madrid much earlier than expected, by 09:00. Went first to the restroom to get cleaned up, then had breakfast of melba toast and water. Dry! We took the long hike to the Metro station and Metro'ed into the center of Madrid.
Madrid Metro ticket
We first looked for a hotel, and found one almost immediately. Got settled, then went off to the Prado for more art immersion, including the great variety of Goya.
Museo del Prado ticket
Postcard of Museo del Prado
Statue of Velazquez in front of the Prado (TAT)
We walked up to the El Retiro Park to eat a lunch of tuna fish sandwiches and huge raisins with seeds and stems to crunch which we had bought with a huge bottle of Coke at a tiny store. In the park, workers were hosing down the trees with firemen’s size hoses. We then took a walk towards a small museum of artifacts, but halfway there we realized it would close before we reached it. So we stopped in at a Sears Department Store, and checked out the bikini sales. We took the long hike to the Plaza de Toros, site of the bullfights, a "neat" looking building, but it was closed up.
Plaza de Toros
Plaza de Toros (TAT)
We found a café for Cokes and a restroom for Kathy. Then we Metro'ed back to the center of the city, and wandered through the shopping area to waste the siesta time. Fortunately a couple of the larger department stores remained open during the siesta; we priced souvenirs and even looked for the shop where I had bought Spanish soap last year, but the shop was now non-existent. We walked to the Plaza de España where Kathy and Terry soaked their feet while I ran up to the Burger King to get milkshakes.
Kathy and Terry soak their feet in Plaza de España
Then we walked to the Palacio Real/Royal Palace, where guards, waved us away.
Palacio Real
So we wandered into the nearby gardens where some travelers were resting and wading in the pool. We took yet another long hike to see Goya’s tomb, which was a one-room "museum." Not much, but...
Goya's Tomb ticket
We then walked back to the center of the city passing through Plaza Mayor which kind of looked like St. Mark’s Square in Venice. We returned to El Corte Ingles department store to buy a supply of soap as souvenirs which I charged. We took a break drinking sodas and eating potato chips while listening to a street violinist. I didn't realize it was already dinner time because my watch had stopped. When I discovered it was almost 19:00, we went off in search of a restaurant on Barco Street as recommended by the $10 book. We found a restaurant serving the recommended gazpacho, but it wasn't to open until 20:30. So we took a walk to find the flamenco theater which we found rather quickly. We walked into a nearby department store, the Preciados, to check out their bikini sales and to waste more time. We finally ended up sitting on a bench out on the main avenue for a half hour until it was time for dinner.
Kathy hanging out (TAT)
As we sat looking over the menu, we overheard at the next table a fellow asking in English for a typical Spanish meal, but the waiter didn't understand. So I thought I might be able to help by suggesting a couple of typical Spanish items, such as paella and gazpacho. This guy wanted to know what these things were but I could only explain paella since I didn't have the slightest idea what gazpacho was! Unfortunately the restaurant did not have paella that night. The waiter finally got a dictionary to help. This guy was Arabian who was studying in Colorado. A couple other Americans came in and heard us talking and tactlessly asked what he thought of the Iranian situation. He wisely withheld comment. We haphazardly ordered the gazpacho, a tortilla Españole, and the menu of the house. The gazpacho was a very cold vegetable soup, and the tortilla was like an omelet with potato, and Kathy got cream of bean soup, Spanish meatballs, and watermelon. Then we went to the flamenco place, but were scared off by the fanciness of the doorman. So we went to another Burger King for milkshakes. We returned to the hotel, took cold water showers and went to bed.
Map of Madrid
Next: Torrejon.