1979 Turin (8/24-28/1979)

Friday, August 24, 1979

We arrived in Torino/Turin and first ran to the restrooms, not only for the call of nature but to change from our shorts to long pants. We were inviting too many stares. We also managed to slip out without paying, but perhaps one only pays if they were given toilet paper which we weren't. We went in search of something to eat, stopping for toasts (grilled sandwiches). I then tried calling Gianni several times, getting no answer. I finally got an answer from Pina, but could only let her know I was in Torino before our conversation was cut short. I tried again and again, getting either a dial tone or busy signal, and again had a token stolen. I changed telephones and got a hold of Pina long enough for her to give me instructions for getting to Nole. We attempted to follow her directions. First we took a taxi to the suburban station because time was short and a bus or tram weren't likely to arrive in time. When we arrived at the station, the taxi driver told us no more trains were running, but we were told to take the 22:00 bus. At 22:00 no bus arrived and we doubted if one would. So we bought tram tickets from a fellow in a “control booth” and took the tram to the edge of the city. There we started hitchhiking and almost immediately got a ride from an English-speaking Italian who had his newly adopted cocker spaniel, left by vacationers. This guy was going to the airport at Caselle and dropped us off there. It was getting cooler and it seemed another car would never stop. And then the cars zoomed around the curve in such a way that we wondered about our safety. Finally an older middle-aged man picked us up, explaining he picked us up because rides are scarce at that hour. He also had thought Kathy was a man because of her height. This guy rattled on about cities he had visited in the US and his relatives there. Then he gave a PR spiel on the Tuscany region of Italy. When we got to Nole he wanted to take us directly to our address, but I said he could just let us off in the square which I pointed out. But he insisted the square was elsewhere and ended up driving in a circle to let us out in the square I originally designated! We then walked the few blocks to the P family's home where there was only the worried Pina to greet us. Aldo was at the bar and Gianni wasn’t answering his phone. We had hot milk and coffee, and later Gianni called his mother to ask if she had been trying to call him. I was put on the phone and Gianni came running over. Aldo came home even later. Sleeping arrangements were made so that Kathy and I took over Gianni’s apartment, while Gianni stayed at his mother’s to be taken care of since he had a fever. Kathy and I stayed up talking until 4:00 the next morning!

Saturday, August 25, 1979

And of course we woke up really late, not being ready until lunchtime when we went down to the P’s. After a great lunch of spaghetti and stew, Gianni took us to Lanzo. We first walked through the park to the Bridge of the Devil.

Bridge of the Devil

Tamiko & Kathy

Above the Bridge of the Devil

Tamiko & Kathy

Then up and around the boy’s private school, winding back down into town using the brick path network among buildings and gardens. We went to a local bar for Cokes and relaxation, and talking. We returned to the car and zoomed off to the Superga Basilica. There is no direct route, and it seemed we weaved back and forth without ever heading straight towards Superga up on the hill. It is impressive from a distance, but close up it is not a beautiful cathedral. Especially now when surrounded by scaffolding for restoration. But the grounds were nicely kept and we walked all around.

Gianni & Tamiko

On our way down we saw the rack railroad which takes visitors up and down the hill. When we got back to Nole, Gianni walked to the film store to drop off his film while I drove Kathy to his parents. Then we all drove to the pizzeria in the middle of the boondocks! We waited outside while they made the pizzas, and we played hide ‘n’ seek with Gianni's wallet. Even Pina joined in and was not suspected at all when she was the real culprit. We took the pizzas home to eat, and afterwards we talked and made plans to go hiking the next day. Then to bed.

Sunday, August 26, 1979

We were awakened by the Pina telephone alarm system at 7:30, and Kathy went ahead and answered the phone and apparently had a “conversation” with Aldo. We quickly got ready and went down for breakfast. We got outfitted in ski jackets, hiking boots and canes, and got in the car for the two-hour ride to Gran Paradiso National Park. Gianni drove which left Kathy in the back seat with Aldo. She wanted to sleep in the car, but Aldo wouldn't let her at first. But she managed to get some rest as Aldo read the newspaper. On our way we made a couple stops to buy bread and heed the call of nature. As we approached the park, we could see that there was less snow on the mountains than in June. But as we drove up into the mountains, it began to snow, covering everything in white. We found a parking spot, put on our coats, and started our hike in the snow. It was easy going, since the deep patches of snow left from the previous winter were gone. We went on for quite a while, not seeing anything except a park ranger and his dog, and some ruins left from WWII.

Tamiko and Gianni

Tamiko and 'Charlie Chaplin'

Gran Paradiso National Park

Then Kathy spotted a grey marmot whom we watched for several minutes. At noon we stopped in a niche within some rocks that cut off the wind as we ate our picnic lunch. Gianni took a nap as the rest of us talked. Then Aldo napped as Gianni espied some stambecchi/ibex way up on a hill. When Aldo awoke, we went off in search of mountain animals. Aldo spotted a lone chamoscio/chamois down below us, and we got our first sight of this graceful animal. Gianni clambered down in hopes of getting a photo, but the chamoscio scampered away. Later Gianni spotted more chamoschi. We settled down behind a large rock to watch, and the small group of chamosci was more or less joined by a large (7 or so) herd of stambecchi that had picked its way across what seemed to be a sheer cliff! We spent a long time watching, then Gianni went off in hopes of getting a close-up photo. At the same time a herd of sheep came into the area with loudly clanging bells. The chamosci and stambecchi backed off, and most disappeared over the hilltop either because of the sheep or Gianni. The sheep came over to where we were standing and Aldo got out bread and crackers to feed them.

Aldo feeding the sheep

Gianni with the sheep

There was a goat with them, and Aldo milked it so we could get a taste of goat’s milk. It was okay-tasting, but really hot! Then Kathy took a turn milking, much to everyone’s admiration.

Kathy milking the goat

Aldo and Gianni milking the goat

Without any more food being offered, the sheep wandered away. We continued the search for more chamosci and stamnbecchi. A couple were spotted directly ahead and we all hit the ground commando-style, crawling after them trying to get up close for photographing. We lost them but almost immediately we saw a huge male stambecco and we were off again in pursuit. The male had huge long horns, and he was joined by several females and a couple young ones.

There's a stambecco/ibex between the grass and rocks,
about two fifths of the way from the left

You can see this stambecco/ibex

Stambecco/ibex family portrait by Gianni

It was truly a successful hunt, and I hope my shots were on target. We also saw a bird like a grouse or quail, and several large black birds “playing” with the wind. With the sun, the snow quickly melted, so that the going was very easy. One particular area had grass of the slippery variety and I slipped, of course. We then slowly made our way back to the car with me dragging my cane as usual, but Kathy swung hers most of the time Charlie Chaplin-style.

We also tried to find Alpine Star flowers, but were unsuccessful. On our drive down, we stopped at a bar where the men had coffee, and Kathy and I warmed up by the pot-bellied stove. Thanks to Gianni, we saw more of the mountain beasts up on the mountain behind the bar. We arrived home at 20:00 and had a quick supper. Aldo went out to buy all the available ice cream in Nole, which totaled six cups. Every one had one each and Kathy and I each had another, being the ice cream lovers. We spent the evening exchanging jokes, showing off magic tricks and card tricks. Kathy taught the Ps how to play the card game “Murder” and they really enjoyed it. We played until 1:00 the next morning even though Aldo had to go to work.

Monday, August 27, 1979

Got up at 8:00 to take a good bath, go to the post office, etc. When Kathy wakened, the two of us went shopping in Nole to buy the necessary goods to make a “typical” American meal that evening. We had difficulty deciding what to get, since we couldn't find the typical ingredients! We met Pina on our way home and informed her we were making dinner. We went to buy milk for her as she went to get bread. We went to the P’s for lunch of polenta. Afterwards Gianni took us to the Sanctuary of San Michele where we had to climb innumerable steps.

Tamiko at Sacra di San Michele

Kathy at Sacra di San Michele

Tamiko

Gianni at the "outhouse"

We also listened to a recording giving the history of the place and I was able to understand the Italian better than the English version. Kathy found the French version easier to understand. Supposedly the legend is that someone jumped from this place into one of the lakes below, but in reality the lakes are around a projection in the mountain and not even in sight of the sanctuary! From the tape I could only gather that someone was miraculously saved from a fire (by jumping into the lake?). We went down to a bar near one of these lakes of Avigliana for ice cream. We arrived home in time to prepare the typical American meal with Gianni helping by whipping cream that wouldn't whip. We made a tuna-helper type tuna casserole, a tossed salad, and for dessert there was chocolate pudding on lady finger cookies with vigorously stirred cream on top. We drank Coca-cola with the meal. It was a hit! The Ps loved it and took seconds and thirds, and asked if one could get this in any restaurant in the U.S.! Carlo and Uncle Clemente came over and they were taught to play “Murder” and we played until midnight.

Tuesday, August 28, 1979

I overslept terribly late, so we had to get Gianni to drive us into Torino where we went to the Super Mercato. Bought some food supplies for our trip that evening. We also got sandwiches which we ate along the banks of the stream outside Nole, since the park containing deer was not open. When we got back to the house, we waited for Aldo to return from playing cards at his bar. Then the whole “family” went for a drive in the mountains to Colle di Lys.

Aldo, Pina, Tamiko, Kathy

Pina, Aldo, Tamiko, Gianni

We started hiking around, found some raspberry bushes and the girls began picking and munching. The guys disappeared, but when we found them Gianni showed us some mushrooms he had gathered. So everyone started looking for mushrooms. Kathy and I got quite a collection, with lots of variety and good-looking mushrooms, but only a couple turned out to be edible! We trooped up to a cow herder’s cottage to try to get fresh milk. However, the timing was wrong: the morning’s squeezings were settling for cream and we’d have a few hours to wait for the evening milking. So the kids went off mushroom-hunting while Mama and Papa took the car down. It was the U.S. vs Italy in a mushroom-hunting marathon and Italy easily won. The U.S. simply got honorable mentions for the most beautiful specimens. Altogether we got a jacketful of mushrooms.

Una dei paparazzi

On our drive down we stopped at a store specializing in baking cookies with corn flour. We had a milk and cookie break. We then zoomed home so that Kathy and I could pack while Pina cooked supper. After supper and a sad good-bye to Aldo and Pina, Gianni accompanied Kathy and me to the Nole train station. Later Aldo drove up with Aunt Teresa who came to say goodbye. Kathy gave a hug and kiss to each P family member as she had promised in a postcard. The local train arrived and off we went. At the Ps we had picked up an extra suitcase, but even so in Torino we were able to walk to the main train station and arrive pooped but in time to catch the train to Rome. We found that one of our cheeses was moldy, so we ate all the good parts right away, then settled down to sleep.

Next: Rome.