Wednesday, August 8, 1979

1979 Amsterdam (8/6-8/1979)

Monday, August 6, 1979
We keep running into Americans! Spent the night on the train with two girls from Michigan who were each behind in their travel journals. They were also keeping a financial record. Since Kathy and I already agreed to “share” money, it makes our financing easier. We just spend until it’s gone. In the morning we were joined by a woman speaking fluent German, but when she found we didn't understand, she announced she was American, too, but had married a “European.” We were also joined by a woman going home to London. Nothing like “local color!”

Arrived in The Hague and called the L family, still no answer. So we looked up the American Embassy address. It appeared to be near the McDonald's, so we went there first for lunch. Then we looked for the address and it was non-existent. We asked a couple policemen sitting in their car and they gave us directions. But we saw a telephone and I decided just to call the embassy. I learned the Ls had just been sent to Yugoslavia on temporary duty for three weeks. Left a “hello” message and decided to head to Amsterdam. We needed change to retrieve our luggage, so we bought sodas in the station snack shop, where we seemed to amuse and were amused by the proprietor. We were a bit punchy and did things like twirling on the stools and blew bubbles into our Cokes (which Kathy says is a trick to reduce the carbonation level!).

The train trip to Amsterdam was relatively short, passing through flat farmland with ditches, an occasional diked canal, and several windmills. When we arrived in Amsterdam, we started calling hotels suggested by the "$10" book, but were approached by a girl doing publicity for a youth hotel. We decided to try it even though it seemed a bit far away. We were taken to the hotel in a VW bus, and major sights (or at least their directions) were pointed out, and we found the hotel wasn't too far away from the centers of action after all, although we took good long walks. Eight girls shared our room with one very nice shower. We were given bed linen and keys to a locker. After washing up we went out to explore the town. Our first stop was a chocolate shop. In our walk we hit the two major theater districts and the pedestrian shopping district. We saw a Baskin-Robbins ice cream store which was closed and four different Wimpies chain restaurants. I teased Kathy she could eat in the 5th one we found. We passed a row of brightly lighted barges, with rows of bulbs along the edges, along one canal; they turned out to be green houseboats. On one unassuming back street we heard a familiar “hello,” it was Ricky, our Filipino companion from Brussels. He, of course, was able to one-up us on his accommodations, but we didn't tell him we had already been to Copenhagen.

In Europe and especially in the Netherlands, pictures of nude women are taken for granted. In the Netherlands, especially in Amsterdam, there were a lot of sex shops, cabarets, etc. Our night walk took us along canals where the houses were spotlighted to show off the local architecture; it was beautiful. Amsterdam is full of canals, even more than shown on the map. And it is full of folks on bicycles, with bicycles chained up everywhere, many abandoned with flat tires and missing parts. Before returning to the hotel we sat for a while in a park to listen to a band playing across the canal. We watched people with their pedigreed dogs, and a well-dressed businessman standing with his nose against a trunk of a tree, which wasn't wet when he turned around to stare at us for a while. We continued sitting longer, “debating” whether to go back to the hotel or wait to be “picked up.” Just then a couple fellows came up and said something inviting, and we figured it was time to head “home”!

Tuesday, August 7, 1979
Awoke at 9:30 and took advantage of the breakfast included in the hotel price. We had tea and three slices of buttered bread, one with a couple slices of mild cheese and another with a couple slices of salami. Not a very exciting breakfast especially after hearing breakfasts are great in Amsterdam from our "$10" book. We wandered to the shopping district where Kathy debated a long while at a jewelry store whether or not to get her ears pierced. She finally decided to go ahead with it, but it turned out they did not have the style of earrings she wanted. So instead she bought herself a nice pair of Roots shoes (made in Canada!). Then we went to the post office to mail film and the Paris postcards (!).
Spires of the Central Post Office
We found a shop to drop off my camera for repair. Here we saw one of the strangest specimens while people-watching, a girl with a shaved head. She wore a sheer black body stocking, high heels, and carried a purse, and that was it! We sat on the canal edge to eat our lunch of apples and real fine chocolate. An old lady came by to drop bread into the canal for the ducks. Finally we set off to see some sights. First we found Begijnhof, a preserved little square surrounded by old well-kept homes with a couple of churches, all set in the middle of a busy shopping area.
Kathy in the Begijnhof
You had to pass through a gate, or through a corridor to reach the quiet square where it seemed little old ladies and their cats lived.
Tamiko in the passage to the Begijnhof
We explored two art museums, first the large Rijksmuseum/Dutch National Museum where we saw a lot of Rembrandt paintings including “Nightwatch.”
Rijksmuseum tickets
Kathy helped a lady with an American southern drawl find a postcard of the “Nightwatchman” in the gift shop! In the modern art museum we finally saw some Picassos, and one of Van Gogh’s self-portraits (with both ears). Then we hurried back to the camera shop, stopping only for some Baskin-Robbins ice cream. They didn't have our favorite flavors, so we settled for the theme flavor of this trip: Rocky Road. With the camera we were able to take pictures in the Dam Square where Kathy and I took advantage of being able to innocently swear.
The Dam Square
Royal Palace in the Dam Square
We went to see the skinniest house in Amsterdam built for the coachman of Mr. Tripp who was to be satisfied to have a home as wide as Mr. Tripp’s door. The house was only twice as wide as a regular door and was being remodeled inside.
Amsterdam canal houses
Sint Barbarenstraat bridge
Kathy found Wimpies #5 so we ate dinner there being served by Moroccans, who seem to be everywhere. We even saw Wimpies #6! We high-tailed it back to the hotel heeding the call of nature. That evening we took a walk in yet another direction to find a movie theater.
Cinema ticket
Kathy, of course, had to buy popcorn. Before the movie started, they showed 10-15 minutes of commercials and then we had an intermission! We saw Cheech and Chong’s “Up in Smoke.” Movies were shown in the original language and subtitled in Dutch. The movie was hilarious, in the language of “hey, man!”

Wednesday, August 8, 1979
Woke up early for showers and the “exciting” breakfast (this time a half hard boiled egg instead of cheese). Took a tram to the train station where we checked our bags in a locker. We then went to a flea market in drizzling rain. The market had a lot of interesting and a wide variety of items, but was not crowded as per reputation, probably due to the rain. Kathy did a bit of bargaining to get a loom shuttle for her mother. We decided to return to the station and take a train back to The Hague, again! Upon arriving we checked our baggage, then took a tram to the Pizza Hut (yep!) we had found on an earlier trip. We had boarded the second car of a two-car tram which did not allow us to get to the driver to pay. So we rode the short distance gratis without much choice. After a good pizza, the sun came out, so we took a walk to see the Peace Palace (the world’s justice center), which is set in beautiful grounds.
It was like a Cinderella’s castle! 
Then we went to the Gemeentemuseum/Municipal [Art] Museum with lily ponds in front.
We saw lots of modern art and lots of old musical instruments; very interesting. The gift shop had many Escher souvenirs, so we figured there must be an Escher room, which we found tucked in the back. Fascinating! We then walked (it seemed like we were in the middle of the countryside with forest, fields and lakes, instead of in the middle of the city) over to the miniature city of Madurodam at which we peeked through the chain-link fence. It was a neat miniature of a “piece of Holland,” but we didn't think it was worth the entrance fee.
We took a tram (getting in the front door this time to pay the driver, then glancing back at the tram “following” us driven by a “ghost!”) to the train station. We took a train from the HS (Holland Spoor station) to the CS (Centraal Station), then to Utrecht where we got detailed information as to how to get to Bielefeld, where Elke, my German pen pal lives.
Map of Amsterdam
Next: Bielefeld and Cologne.

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