Monday, September 10, 1979

1979 Madrid Again (9/9-10/1979)

Sunday, September 9, 1979
We arrived in Madrid at 11:00 and we figured it was too late to go to the Prado which was only open in the morning on Sundays. So we picked up our bomb suitcase, made reservations on the next day’s train for Algeciras. We found that to get a cuchette would only cost $5 over our Eurail Passes, so we reserved cuchettes. (We later found out that a cuchette actually costs six times as much! Thank goodness for the Eurail Pass!) We took the subway to the hotel we had previously stayed in, and re-checked in. We had lunch at Burger King, then walked to the Plaza de España in hopes of finding the bus to the zoo. As we walked in the direction of the zoo, we saw several buses we wanted (#33) but couldn't find the actual bus stop. We ended up hiking all the way to Casa de Campo, the huge area in which the zoo and amusement park are located. Only then did we realize how large the Casa de Campo was, as we walked along its border looking for the zoo entrance. We passed a section of gardens, and then a large area which looked exactly like an abandoned fairground, which it turned out to be. Several (an understatement) kilometers later, we reached the zoo, noted for being modern and generally without cages. It was the nicest zoo I have ever seen, but there were still cages, and some of the open areas seemed too small and lacked any shade. We saw a large variety of animals, but very few from the Americas. Supposedly expansion of the zoo is being made to include those animals, too. They had prairie dogs living in an area without barriers, and they were willing to let humans within an arm’s length. There was a pair of Giant Pandas who apparently just arrived from China.
Zoo ticket
Amusement park ticket
When we finished at the zoo, we went to the amusement park, Parque de Attraciones, which was supposedly comparable to Copenhagen’s Tivoli and Disneyland with “unique” rides. It was like Tivoli, but hopefully not like Disneyland or else I will be very disappointed! The rides were not unique, in fact there were not very many of them. We saw only a couple rides to excite our fancy, but they were closed! We saw lots of pinball machines, restaurants, the cascading main fountain, and a loud drunk wandering around followed by two concerned-looking women. We joined the crowd waiting to see “Pecos.” “Pecos” turned out to be a band featuring two fresh-faced kids, the apparent heart throbs of Spanish teeny boppers. When “Pecos” finally came out, we left. We caught our #33 bus back to Madrid and found out why we hadn't seen a bus stop in Plaza de España. It doesn't actually stop there! We took the bus to the end of the line and walked back to Burger King for dinner. We returned to the hotel for the night.

Monday, September 10, 1979
We overslept and our only time-telling piece had stopped, so we had no idea what time it was. We hurriedly dressed, but made it in time for breakfast. We left our bag at the hotel and headed more or less straight for the Prado. We saw men hosing down the streets of Madrid!
Prado ticket
We entered the Prado and began exploring the last of a long list of art museums on our itinerary. By now all art was beginning to look alike, so we weren't overly impressed by all the Rubens, etc. We did see several rooms of Goya, each in a different style from soft classical, good classical to weird modern, almost surrealistic. He was a prolific painter like all the others. It seemed Rubens had a huge collection in every art gallery. The lighting was better for viewing, but not for photo-taking. The collection itself was very large, but not the largest we had seen since the Louvre. It didn't take very long to go through the Prado which had several signs asking to excuse the inconvenience caused by the “climatization,” but we saw no hint of construction inside. We spent the rest of the day souvenir-hunting. I found a leather eyeglass case for my sister, and Kathy found some games for her brother. She also bought a miniature “Mastermind” game for our own amusement. For lunch we stopped at Burger King again. We picked up our bag from the hotel and took the subway to the Chamartin train station to retrieve our two big bags. There we explored the boutiques in their shopping mall and had a snack. Then we Metro’ed to the Atocha station. It must have been rush hour, since we were shoved in like sardines. Being surrounded by men who took advantage of the situation, we were more uncomfortable than would be usual. At every station it seemed more people got on than got off. We couldn't believe the hands (and other assorted body parts) of the guys surrounding us! Busy! We used our elbows and knees as best we could to stave off strangers, but it was difficult being so crammed in. Perhaps fortunately we had a wall to one side and our suitcases to another which left only two sides open to attack. Finally we arrived at Atocha where we shoved our way off the train. Once in the train station, we had a bit of a wait before our train was ready for boarding. When we got on the cuchette car, a porter was waiting to show us the way and to throw our suitcases up on the racks. We were joined by a Moroccan couple coming home from their honeymoon. The groom spoke French, Spanish, and Italian, as well as Arabic, plus he knew a little English that he practiced with us. He seemed pleased that Kathy spoke Arabic and conversed away. We were also joined by a Spanish couple, who apparently had a dog along in the baggage car, and they had to pay a fare for him more than what we paid for our cuchettes! As we rode along, we ate our respective dinners. Then the porter came along to make up the beds. Kathy and I were relegated to the top bunks while the menfolk took the middle bunks and their wives got the lower bunks. It was hot in the top bunks, but apparently cooler down below. Kathy kept using her toe to open the window, while the Spanish man kept reaching over to close it. But Kathy and I slept well enough, when it seems the women below didn't sleep at all. For us, cuchettes are much better than fold-down seats for sleeping!
Next: Morocco again.

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