1979 Morocco (7/23-31/1979)

Monday, July 23, 1979

Only one more fellow bothered me that night with a question of where I was going to sleep. Managed to sleep a little, then got up about 6:00. Went to wait for the 7:00 boat to Ceuta. The hour trip was uneventful, and being cloudy, I didn't really see anything. Once in Ceuta, I wandered around looking for a bus to Tetouan. Asked at the boat ticket window and was directed to take a local to Torajal, which I did. I then fully realized that Ceuta was still part of Spain, but on the other side of the Mediterranean Sea, and that the local bus took me to the Moroccan border. When getting off the bus, a fellow passenger, a Moroccan named Boubker, started speaking in English to me. Since we both were headed to Tetouan, he decided to accompany me. Our passports were glanced at on the Spanish side, but we had to fill out forms and get our passports stamped on the Moroccan side. Boubker had to get to Tetouan as soon as possible to cash a check, even though Moroccan time was an hour behind Spanish time. So he stuck out his thumb and finally got us a ride along with two uniformed fellows with a single man driving a huge Mercedes. Much later, in the middle of nowhere, we were stopped for customs, asking only to open the trunk of the car. 

We were dropped off in central Tetouan, where I first went to a postal communications office to look up the address of Association Hanan, where my UB classmate and friend, Kathy C, was serving in the Peace Corps. Then Boubker and I were directed by several people in several different directions to finally find his bank where he cashed his check. Then we were directed in a complete circle to finally find the Association Hanan, only to learn that Kathy C wasn't there! But a woman working there had a husband with a car. They would drive us out to Martil where Kathy lives and was working with the kids at camp on the beach. Boubker insisted on coming with me, and on paying for the gas, only taking a few pesatas from me. He wanted to hold my hand, too! Once in Martil we walked out onto the beach where I finally and miraculously found Kathy C whom I hadn't seen in three years! She’s looking great! Gratefully said goodbye to Boubker.

Stayed on the beach, then came back to Kathy’s house to shower. Aaahhh! Met dozens of people, other Peace Corps volunteers and new recruits. Getting to practice speaking English again; boy, it’s difficult! Then we went to a nearby restaurant for shrimp in garlic sauce, very good, but I never had shrimp served still in the shell with veins! And then fudgesicles for dessert; haven’t had one since being in the U.S.! Spent the rest of the afternoon listening to guitar-playing and folk-singing. There was a party that night with all the Peace Corps volunteers and staff from Association Hanan (an association for the protection of children with disabilities; Kathy is also a pediatric physical therapist). Got to dance with Moroccans, trying to get them into the spirit of American parties. Later took a walk with Trip, a Peace Corps trainee, better known as “Biff the Preppie!” Town full of flat-topped buildings behind walls with gardens. “Unusual” wide streets and sidewalks. Martil is a summer resort town, part of the “Moroccan Riviera.”

Tuesday, July 24, 1979

Oh, my goodness, I am taking it super easy! Spent the day reading, sitting on the beach keeping company with Kathy’s company, Peace Corps volunteers on summer projects with Kathy (Maureen, Sally, Pete, and Pete’s young Arabic teacher, Bechir). Also staying at Kathy’s were two Moroccans, the Arabic instructors for the new trainees, and another summer project Peace Corps volunteer, Norma, who left the next day, for Italy of all places!

Wednesday, July 25, 1979

Went to help at the Association with clean-up which was a leisurely process and consisted of a lot of sitting around!! Even did some dancing, and the Moroccans wanted to slow dance with lots of snuggling and ear nibbling. But the director put an immediate halt to that!

Thursday, July 26, 1979

Still doing lots of reading and lying in the sun. Ramadan, the Muslim month of fasting, began today. Those of the Islamic faith basically cannot do anything, even drink water, during the day, but when the sun sets they can eat, drink, smoke, go swimming, etc. We girls were bothered by a couple Moroccans on the beach, which I guess is only to be expected.

There was another party at Kathy’s for the Peace Corps people and three girls in off the street, originally from Australia. Three of us anti-social people, Jim, Mark and I took a walk along the beach and tried counting lights of fishing boats way out in the water. Later met all the other people also out on a walk. At night during Ramadan, things are lively! Music and people everywhere.

Friday, July 27, 1979

Still reading, on something like my 6^th book while here! And lying in the sun, and eating. Had a picnic on the beach.

Saturday, July 28, 1979

Invited to the house of “Frank,” as they call one of the Association Hanan teachers, for a typical break-of-the-fast meal of Ramadan. Went with Maureen and 2-year volunteer Steve. When the cannon went off at sunset, they were able to pull out the cigarettes and take sips of water. We entered the gate of Frank’s house and walked into a beautiful courtyard just full of plants. Women were crouched on flagstones cooking over charcoal grills and gas/butane bottles. We sat on a porch with low couches having first removed our shoes. Then they passed around water with which to wash our hands. We Americans were given lap-cloths which you aren't supposed to use as napkins on your lips! They also passed around a common towel for hand-wiping. To break the fast, we first had a delicious soup, like a tomato vegetable soup with noodles, but also had cinnamon in it. Then there were sweet pastries and figs. Afterwards came coffee which seemed to be real sweet and had cinnamon in it. After a wait, the meal came, fried fish, a tomato-green pepper salad, and a “stew” with meat and potatoes. You are supposed to eat only with the right hand, and use pieces of bread to dip and pick up food. Afterwards was fruit; plums and grapes. We washed our hands, but later came the mint tea and cookies, chocolate chip ones Kathy had baked. She didn't come because she was feeling sick. Socialized for a while before going home. This family even had a TV which we watched, but I didn't understand!

Sunday, July 29, 1979

Reading and lying in the sun again, but today the sickness hit me. Got a super headache and sore joints. But with a couple aspirin I was able to go to the dinner party at Dave’s, another Peace Corps volunteer. He made a great casserole that we ate Moroccan style. Another slow evening without Kathy who still wasn't feeling well. Maureen and I left early, but made a quick return to get our jackets and Maureen’s wallet!

Monday, July 30, 1979

Really sick today. Head super aches! Jaw and back of tongue sore. Go from chills to being feverishly hot. Didn't help much in the clean-up of Kathy’s house, but I did sit-down work like sewing secret cases for our valuables to take on our trip.

Tuesday, July 31, 1979

Feeling better. Left for our historic but quick tour of Europe today. Started off from Martil with another Peace Corps volunteer, Rick, who was on his way to Malaga, then to the U.S. for vacation. We helped carry his plentiful luggage. Took an old bus into Tetouan like we did yesterday when Kathy had to pick up and cash her checks. A conductor collects the fare and gives you a useless bit of paper. Then from Tetouan we caught the bus to the border. Along the way we saw camels and lots of burros in the low arid hills with scrubby bushes. Also saw a Moroccan turtle, and storks. At the border we dropped our stuff at the inspection desk just to rest our arms. There was no one there, but then a strange little officer came up and chalked "K-2" on our bags and told us to get our passports stamped, which Kathy was already trying to do. Took almost forever to get the cards to fill out, then forever to get the passports stamped. Finally walked over to Spanish customs where due to a slight misunderstanding, we boldly marched past the guard. But we backtracked and were quickly okayed. Took the bus to Ceuta. There a local fellow tried to give us a rate for money exchange, but Rick first checked the rates at the bank before exchanging with the “street” teller. Walked to the waterfront and found the next boat left at 12:00. We couldn't figure out why we couldn't catch the 11:30, until we realized Spain is an hour ahead in time. We went into a bar to eat and weren't waited on for ages after being told the table was reserved for eating. We did want to eat! Finally got served; I just had a salad. Rick and Kathy got “meat” and French fries. It was suspicious tasting meat; we liked to guess it was horse meat. We had a longer wait for the check. Finally walked over to the dock for a very short wait for the boat. Boarded and fell into plush comfortable seats good for sleeping. Also used the “modern” facilities, a sit-down toilet with toilet paper! Looked on a map to discover that the jut of land to the right was Gibraltar, the little British colony you can only get to from Tangier, Morocco. Not at all from Spain on to which it connects, nor from Ceuta just across the sea.

Next: Spain.

1979 Trying to Get to Spain (7/19-21/1979)

Thursday, July 19, 1979 continued
It turned out the 12:15 train went directly to Ventimiglia. Found that a train leaves at 21:00 following the coast into Spain for which I will have to wait nearly three hours. Went into town to buy bread and cheese, how European! While waiting at the train station, two Scottish girls asked if I spoke English and Italian. They asked if I would make a phone call for them to a friend who spoke English, but whose parents did not. I made their long distance call to Milano for Angelo from Ella, and Angelo wasn't home, so I left the message that they would call again.

This is just great! There is a strike on! No trains into France until tomorrow morning! There are no local trains to Bordighera where I might have been able to stay with Gianni's uncle. I don't want to spend money on a hotel so I settled myself into a waiting room chair. But adventure always awaits!

One of the station hands noticed my reading a thick book and said I'd have it finished before the night was over. He then asked where I'd be sleeping, and I said "right here." He offered to let me sleep in a train staying the night in the station, and mentioned a few other girls would be doing so also. At 22:30 he rounded up his group: two girls of Japanese-ancestry from California, Ada and Elaine, and a girl from Toronto, Betty. We were first invited to share dinner with the station crew. We were seated at a rough table in a back locker room. Then I was to accompany our benefactor, Franco, to pick up the stuff for dinner. We got most of the food from a bar owned by his friends. Then he wanted to get some spices from his house, where he had me sample a couple of wines. Then he wanted to know if I wanted to take a shower, and I was supposed to trust him when he kept pinching my cheeks and hugging me?! Finally we just picked basil leaves and returned to the station. Dinner was prepared and leisurely eaten. Had spaghetti with a green sauce made from basil leaves called pesto. Plus salami, ham, antipasto salad, ending up with cantaloupe, nuts and coffee. Gorged. We were joined by seemingly unending numbers of station hands. Most memorable was Raimondo, the old man of the crew who collects postcards. Giorgio was the cutest! Roberto, who became very talkative after drinking some wine, was funny! There was Claudio who spoke French and wanted more than to converse with Betty. Then the two with the fancy mustaches!

Friday, July 20, 1979
At nearly 3:00, we were taken to the train with plush reclining seats. One crewman insisted on kissing each of us goodnight! The train was new with electric-button controlled window shades and air-conditioning. I paired off with Ada and we talked for a while. We tried the restrooms, but they were locked. Got a little sleep, but were awakened just after 6:00 by the morning shift. The train was scheduled to go to Milano!

We joined the long line at the restrooms in the station to freshen up. Then we joined the long line at customs which finally started moving at 7:00. The officials simply smiled at us, then we boarded the modern, air-conditioned French train. It left at 8:05, filled to standing room only. We considered ourselves lucky to get seats, but they turned out to be reserved. One by one we were unseated at each succeeding station. The other three girls got off at Nice. I continued to Marseilles to find out the strike was blocking trains to Spain! Took a train from Marseilles to Narbonne, finding the Port Bou trains were also blocked by the strike. Continued to Toulouse to find their trains wouldn't leave until the strike was over the next morning. Read for a while, then bought a candy bar to break a 100-franc note so that I could have change to use the pay toilets. Decided to take the train back to Narbonne where trains are more frequent to Port Bou in hopes of getting into Spain sooner. At Narbonne, immediately got a train to Perignon, then one to Cerbere. On the last three trains no one came to check tickets. In Italy, the conductor just glanced at the Eurailpass. In France they at least looked for the date.

Saturday, July 21, 1979
Arrived in Cerbere at 0:30 and will have to wait until 5:41 for the train into Spain to Barcelona.Slept on a bench in the station, as did many others. At 5:00 went to the restroom to wash up. Another girl came in slamming the door which locked us in. But her toothbrush opened the lock! Outside a beggar woman was shouting things to the amusement of the station crew. She asked me for cigarettes. The 5:41 train took us to Port Bou where we had to change trains. More or less teamed up with a guy from Milwaukee. Passed easily through customs. Had a long wait for the 8:00 train to Barcelona… It’s taking forever!

Finally arrived in Barcelona at about 11:30, Spanish time, an hour ahead of Italian-French time. Went to a bar for an expensive Coke, and a huge bottle of water that most travelers seemed to carry. Found that a train leaving for Cordoba was due at 14:00. Knew that in Spain one needs a boarding pass for the trains, so I joined one of the many long lines only to find out from an English-speaking couple that it was to reserve for the next day. Found the proper line and the Milwaukee fellow was already in it; he let me join him. Spent over an hour in this line, but managed to get the boarding pass in time for my train. It supposedly cost 30 pesatas, but I didn't have to pay because I only had a 100-pesata bill? The Milwaukee fellow had given me a rose left behind by a couple German girls on the last train, and he seemed pleased to see it sticking out of my pack.

Got on the train headed for Malaga which was super-crowded. I stood in the aisle, but was invited to take a seat by a middle-aged man. Most of the people in the full compartment spoke Spanish except for two Moroccan brothers, one who spoke English as well as French, and a Spanish soldier who spoke French and understood Italian. We had some strange conversations: the soldier asking the Moroccan to translate his French to English so I could understand, and I would directly answer the Spaniard in Italian. I had no idea how long the trip would be, and it was long! The fellow who offered me his seat bought me a Coke and offered me part of his sandwich, kind of a roll filled with pizza sauce. Later I was invited to take a walk to the bar on the train for a Coke with the soldier who noted after seeing Gianni’s bracelet that Spaniards are just as romantic as Italians. He commented about me, or complimented me, I should say, in French, to be translated by the Moroccan. At the stop at Valencia, we got off the train to stretch our legs and the soldier bought me another Coke. Later on the train I was asked to join the soldier and Moroccans as they met with some girls to listen to music on a cassette player. I soon left feeling sort of out of it, because of the language. Spanish has many words similar to Italian, but not enough to understand everything. During the day, someone was always standing in the aisle or taking a walk on the train, so in playing musical chairs everyone got to sit for a while. But later at night when trying to sleep, there weren't enough seats for all. The soldier sat on the floor at my feet and used my knees as his pillow. At the same time one of the two young boys in the compartment leaned against my shoulder while sleeping. It’s nice to be “needed.” The mother and her two sons had reserved seats and boarded at a later station to usurp a mother and daughter who had reserved the same seats! But the latter two were getting off at the next stop anyway. Managed to get some sleep.

Sunday, July 22, 1979

Awoke and went to the lavatory to get washed up, and in only a few seconds someone was hammering on the door to hurry me out. The train just kept going and going! I had planned to get off at Cordoba, not trusting this “express” train to stop at Bobadilla where I could get a train to Algeciras (the point where boats go to Morocco). But the Moroccans said the train stopped there, so I continued on with them. The non-English speaking brother, in French, invited me to tour Morocco with them before going to Tetouan. I understood his French, but couldn't tell him I had a friend waiting, and this trip had already taken twice as long as I expected.

I was the one who noticed the Bobadilla sign, so we hurried to get off the train. Arrived at about 11:30, a 20-1//2 hour train trip! Had to wait in Bobadilla until the 15:30 train for Algeciras, so I walked through the sleepy town of white-washed stone/concrete houses and mostly bars. Bought an apple and a sandwich at the station and had the apple for lunch. Read a lot. Finally got on the Ferrobus (a diesel self-propelled “bus” on rails) for Algeciras, more or less accompanying the Moroccan brothers. Spain was generally flat, some small hills, with lots of fruit orchards. Also saw fields of sunflowers which I also saw in France. Later saw pastures full of bulls, mean-looking beasts with very long horns. 

Suddenly something under the train must have snapped, throwing up a lot of dust and gravel. The train stopped while the crew worked on whatever was wrong for nearly an hour. Limped on to the next station, a tiny flower-covered building where everyone got off to await the next train. This was a nice air-conditioned train originating from Madrid. Arrived in Algeciras at 21:30. Because no buses were running, we had to walk to the port. The Moroccan brothers had an abundance of baggage, so another fellow and I helped carry it. Even at that, they had to make two trips. No more boats left that night, so I left the Moroccans at a café to go to a travel agency to get my boat ticket for the next morning. I also asked how to get to Tetouan from Ceuta, the boat’s destination. They only knew that there was a bus. They also could not change money to Moroccan currency, but said I could use Spanish money in Ceuta, which should be enough. Then I had to find a real cheap place to stay overnight. There were benches along the waterfront, so I took one pretending to read. About midnight a fellow came to me babbling in Spanish; it took him a while to figure out I didn't understand him. He asked if I spoke English, then asked to “sleep with me.” He didn't want to take no for an answer. Conversed a little in Spanish/Italian, and I finally “asked” him to go. He gave me a tiny cotton flower in the name of Christ - strange fellow. Then a VW bus drove up with three guys and two girls, and they were camping out in their sleeping bags on the grass in front of me, so I feel more secure.
Next: Morocco.

Preparing to Leave Italia (7/17-19/1979)

Monday, July 16, 1979

Acted as chauffeur taking Aldo’s car. Took Pina and her sister, Teresa, out for ice cream in Vauda di Nole, and then to their tailoress nearby. Then we drove to Cafasse to drop off shoes we had brought back from Bordighera. When we arrived home, I received a message that Marisa wanted to see me, so we drove to her home in Villanova. Marisa, one of the try-it-out maids at the B’s, had news of a possible job for me.

Tuesday, July 17, 1979

Borrowed Aldo’s car to go to Torino to try to exchange money, only to find there was too much red tape for me to change Italian lire, and at that I could only take 100,000 lire out of the country. Tried several banks and found one who gave me 100,000 lire ($125) worth of French francs.

Wednesday, July 18, 1979

Biked to the B offices to say goodbye to the receptionist. The secretary said to try the offices of exchange such as at the airport, not at the banks. The receptionist, Joan, said to also try the Nole bank, and if I needed help she would change money for me. I did go to the Nole bank, which changed 100,000 lire into dollars. That afternoon Carlo and his friend, Alessandro, came to take me to Torino to offices of exchange where Alessandro is known and no questions asked. Managed to get Spanish, Dutch, Swiss and English currency. Then went to Alessandro’s house where he showed me his armory, all sorts of rifles and pistols. He even took us out into the yard for shooting practice using a silencer on his rifle. Then he drove me home after inviting me to go swimming with him, but I declined.

That evening a family friend of the P’s made secret pockets for my jeans to carry all that money!

I had two special gifts, both handmade: a sweater from Debora's mother and a shawl from Claudio's grandmother:

Thursday, July 19, 1979
I am now on vacation! At least that is how my Italian family sees it, but I seem to feel it's more of a permanent leave-taking. Now that I am more emotional like a quasi-Italian, I cried! Pina walked me to the Nole station where I took the local into Torino which was 20 minutes late; unusual! From the Giulo Cesare station I hiked to Porta Nuova. There I went to the information windows, but the lines were very long. I decided to take my chances going immediately to the international ticket window to get my Eurailpass validated. It was done right away. Wandered around the station wondering whether or not to buy a cheap watch, or just depend on my alarm clock. Instead, I bought film, mostly to get the Rochester zip code. Then I took a walk outside the station to buy a notebook to keep my journal. I had planned on taking the 13:50 train directly to Ventimiglia, but in checking the schedule I decided to take the 12:15 to Savona then change for Ventimiglia. During the hour wait, I found a bookstore selling books in English, so I bought "The Thorn Birds." Should keep me occupied along with writing this journal while waiting for trains.

And so now begins the 1979 Eurailpass/Europe Trip.

Italian Riviera (7/13-15/1979)

Wednesday, July 11, 1979

Spent the afternoon at the B’s saying goodbye to the maids, a guard, and a chauffeur.

Maids Bruna and Elena

Friday, July 13, 1979

Left after lunch today for the Riviera because Gianni skipped work. Took the Autostrada to Fossano, then headed to Cuneo and Limone to pass into France. At the border they asked for all kinds of documents, one of which could not be found, but apparently enough papers were shown. Drove through France but this time took the route immediately returning to Italia, and we were waved through the border. Headed towards Ventimiglia, stopping in a town just outside the city. Gianni asked directions to his cousin’s house and we were first directed to an apartment over the post office. We took the stairs ending up in the kitchen, but no one was around. Asked again and this time we were correctly directed to a house on the outskirts of town in front of greenhouses. Gianni’s cousin, Bruna, and her husband cultivate roses. After a short visit we took the Autostrada from Ventimiglia to Bordighera. Right near the Autostrada Gianni’s aunt and uncle lived in one of twin villas. Beautiful homes on a hill crest with a distant view of the sea. We dropped off our luggage and drove down into the city to stop at the uncle’s cobbler shop. He had a storage area used as a cabina, and was a few steps from the beach. So we spent an hour on the beach, which was mostly stones. Didn't expect to get wet, but had a water-splashing fight and then one of the rough waves knocked me down. Later we drove up to the villa for dinner. That evening we drove back into the city to walk its main street. Stopped for ice cream before going home. The sea was really rough with huge waves. In the villa it was hot and stuffy, so we opened up the windows. 

Saturday, July 14, 1979

Later we were attacked by a swarm of mosquitoes. At 2:00 we closed the windows and Gianni commenced a battle against the mosquitoes, killing them off one by one. Slept late and after lunch we went to the beach. The sea was calmer, but there were still waves. The water becomes immediately deep, so I couldn't really enjoy myself, but Gianni borrowed the uncle’s air mattress. I boarded and Gianni took me way out into the open sea. On our way back a huge wave dunked me, but we were already in the shallow area. So I managed to get good and wet… After dinner we came back to the city to look for a fair, but didn't find one. We joined all the people on the “boardwalk” and stopped for ice cream, of course.

Sunday, July 15, 1979

Tamiko at the villa

Got up early to spend some time on the beach, just taking in the sun even though the sea was calm. We then drove to Bruna’s for lunch. We were first taken on a tour of the greenhouses with 12,000 rose plants and ferns galore. After lunch we took the Autostrada from Ventimiglia to Pietra Ligure. Gianni asked directions to the address of Claudio. We found the street, but not the house. We were ready to give up when I spotted Claudio himself with his family, taking a walk and stopping for ice cream. Said goodbye. By the shore in Pietra Ligure is a beautiful “boardwalk.” Soon Gianni and I left for home, taking the Autostrada via Savona.

Camping (7/7-9/1979)

Thursday, July 5, 1979

Elena and her mother are flying to New York today, and this means my job is finished here in Italy. I opted not to return to the U.S. with them, but to stay until my Eurailpass arrives and go on to Morocco to meet Kathy C who is there with the Peace Corps. We will then travel through Europe together. In the meantime I am moving in with the Ps.

Signore B paid me for the full six-month contract, and gave me a return airplane ticket, good for one year.

Saturday, July 7, 1979

Mid-afternoon, Gianni, Franco, Maresa and I left my new home in Nole for Pian della Mussa to camp. On our way we stopped in Voragno where I saw Debora’s mother. After arriving at our destination, we found a spot next to a stream. The guys set up the tent while the girls prepared dinner. After dinner with all the usual courses, we went to the bar set up in the area for drinks of Genepi (an aperitif made with Alpine plants). I could not feel my feet after that drink, which made crossing a stream by stepping on rocks a bit tricky. Later we built a small fire to heat up some wine with cinnamon, sugar and cloves. There was a nearly full moon that night, which lit up the surrounding mountains; it was beautiful. Four of us crowded into the tent to sleep. A strong wind started up that night, threatening to blow the tent down.

Sunday, July 8, 1979

We all got up early and had breakfast at the bar. A little while later Aldo, aunt and uncle (Franco’s parents), and a cousin, Gianni, arrived. Most of us took a walk to the refuge and looked for stambecchi with binoculars. Saw a large herd of about ten of them. We returned to the camp to help stir the polenta cooking over the fire. There was still a strong wind blowing smoke and ashes all over the place.

Tamiko mixing polenta

So we had lunch of polenta with ashes and beef salami. Afterwards, Gianni, Franco and I took a hike, ending up at a cow herder’s where we drank fresh milk and sampled freshly-made butter. After a leftover dinner, we headed home, stopping in Ceres for coffee. I also stopped in Voragno to see Debora and say goodbye.

Pian della Mussa souvenir

Monday, July 9, 1979

I was invited to spend the afternoon with Maresa. Franco’s mother accompanied me to the train station in Nole (Gianni drove us in his truck). I took the train to San Maurizio where Maresa met me. We started off on her bicycle to her home in San Francesco, but got a flat tire less than a kilometer away. Just as we arrived on foot at her house, Gianni arrived with his truck! Took a tour of her house and looked through photo albums. Then we walked to San Maurizio and took the train to Nole. Later Franco drove us back to San Francesco where Maresa did some chores. Then we went to Cirie for shopping. Maresa has a lot of pets; cats, dogs, rabbits, hens, doves, and parrots.

Gran Paradiso National Park (7/1/1979)

Sunday, July 1, 1979

Aldo, Gianni, Carlo, Aldo’s friend, Bruno, and I left shortly after 8:00 for the long drive to Gran Paradiso National Park. We passed through a rugged valley containing Ceresole and several dams, one having a tremendous lake behind it. We drove as far as allowed, and then started hiking. There were lots and lots of people, but we headed towards a less populous area.

Gran Paradiso National Park

Gianni, Carlo, Aldo
Bruno

See the marmot?!

Stopped for lunch on a hilltop and rested a while. Gianni started off first, then Aldo and I followed in search of the camosci (chamois or goat antelope) and stambecchi (ibex), seeing only a marmot. We did find and collected a few Alpine Star flowers!

(Later found out that was probably illegal!) Aldo and I took a couple rugged routes, climbing nearly straight up and nearly straight down a rocky area. Also did some snow traversing. Not having seen much, we headed back to the car, meeting Maresa along the way.

Drove the car a short distance:

Photo op at 2615m
Aldo, Carlo, Gianni, Bruno

Tamiko, Carlo, Gianni, Bruno

and then took another hike in the fog, but saw two stambecchi, one with long horns and a smaller one.

There is a stambecco/ibex in the fog!

Had to traverse a rather steep section of snow. Gianni took another route and saw a stambecco and camoscio.

Finally headed for home, stopping for coffee in Ceresole and exploring the largest dam. It started raining and near Torino there was a thunderstorm with pouring rain. Aldo took one corner a bit fast, but we are still alive. We all had dinner at the P's where I was lectured on the dangers of the mountains.